6.0L cooler and studs, Cost, options? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:34 PM
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6.0L cooler and studs, Cost, options?

Hello all, My father In-laws 06 6.0l started puffing a little white smoke on start up the other day, and progressed to rolling white smoke constantly. Local Mech. took a look and thought it was headgaskets, but was to busy to tackle the job. So took it to ford and the tech there thinks that headgaskets are good but that the coolers are needing replaced.

Lady in the front at ford was a little confused on what it should cost and just added both jobs together for a total of like $4700, (2500 for gaskets and 2200 for coolers). That is parts and labor for each seperate. How do those prices seperate seem. I have an understanding of what each job takes but say if you did the coolers, what addition labor is needed for gaskets. As of now ford says that since he thinks it is the coolers they will replace them, and if the gaskets need replaced after it is back together, they will take 500 off of labor for the gaskets.

If it were my personal truck I would most likely delete, but I am assuming he will want to keep it standard, also assuming ford tech wont delete. So that is out of the question.

I would like to hear more on what some think about all of this? On what prices of parts for both coolers and gasket jobs, what labor hours are for jobs seperate and together, and any other info you guys want to toss my way.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:48 PM
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Just on start up?
Check ficm voltage

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:01 PM
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Now it does it continuously, and it is a lot of smoke... Forgot to mention that coolant was gone out of degas bottle but no residual on cap or on outside of bottle
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:39 PM
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Get a second opinion from a local 6.0 shop depending on where you live i am sure someone on here can point you in the right direction. If it does require head gaskets and cooler look SERIOUSLY into Bullet Proofing and ARP head studs. If you do that it will out live you and your Dad if you take care of her. Spend some time reading up on the 6 liter. Check out the Stickys on this site
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:45 PM
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How many miles. I seriously recomend of therr is no extended warranty, look at the afrermarket. And defiantly go with the studs
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:03 PM
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Like I said, if if it were mine I would be all over studs and bullet proofing, almost waiting for mine to go but (knock on wood they have held together). We live in western Nebraska, so not a whole lot of big shops around here. The most experience with 6.0s would be ford I believe. However, going to give another shop about 70 miles away a call tomorrow. I will continue to see if he and/or the tech are intrested in replacing with non-factory parts. I have done the reading and understand, but I am still curious as what standard gaskets should cost on top of coolers since the top of the engine would all ready be off. Have access to most all of the tools that would be needed to do it our selfs, but simply do not have the time now, or looking like anytime soon, so that is out of question!
His truck is a 2006 f350 6.0l with roughly 130 on the clock, and just bought it from ford like 6 months and 10,000 miles ago. Just bought it as a business truck so payed cash without any warranty.

Thank you guys for all and any info!
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:08 AM
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Sounds like they are out to screw you. Have them pull the EGR cooler and check it. If it's the cause of the coolant absconding, you're looking at a new cooler or a delete. And slap it back together. Good idea to do the oil cooler at the same time as well as the updates. (I doubt Ford will do the delete....) If the cooler is not leaking and tests out okay, you are correct....they are most of the way to pulling the heads. They can just continue on. Have them install studs while the head is off. If you end up having the dealer do this, make sure they are on the same page as you are before they begin. Either way, if you don't do your own work, it will be expensive.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:29 AM
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If it is out of warranty you should def. delete it and bullit proof. If you are mechanically inclined do it yourself. If not or you are too busy find a diesel specialty shop. I wouldn't take an out of warranty truck to the dealer for any repairs.
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