Bought a 2006 F350....few questions - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 11-28-2012, 07:53 PM Thread Starter Rookie
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Bought a 2006 F350....few questions

172,000 miles, F350 4x4, regular cab, picked it up at a fair price. (I consider it a fair price, as I do my own mechanical stuff......) Considering the miles, I just figured on an EGR delete, new oil cooler, and the routine updates such as the turbo lines. Okay, haven't done anything yet, parts on order. Took a 140 mile trip and averaged 18.9 mpg. EOT was around 207 at 65 mph, ECT stayed right around 170. (Stuck open I wonder?) Slowed down, oil cooled down a few degree's, coolant stayed the the oil cooler is probably toast.
Questions for the Powerstroke experts:

1. Flushing the coolant: Prior to starting the egr delete and oil cooler install, correct? In other words, I'm thinking it'll be better to flush it and get it clean before I do the egr delete and oil cooler.....not after assembly and risk plugging the new cooler while flushing, right?
2. Coolant filter getting installed as well....anyone think I should install that first, and drive around for a week or so just to clean out the big stuff that may be flowing through? ...before I do the flush? Then change filters of course, when I install the egr delete and oil cooler.
3. I'm more familiar with Class 8 truck engines.....just wondering if it is common practice on these Powerstrokes to change out the rods and mains at a certain mileage?
4. Cylinder head off.....what a pain. Is it a do-able option to set the head on the engine, and insert the studs through the head as you would the head bolts, and go from there? Of course removing the heads would mean the cab off approach, or pulling the engine. Just wondering if this is feasible.

The egr cooler appears to be original from what I can see. Engine is spotless, no leaks, and I don't know what the maintenance history is on it. It does however have the updated turbo oil supply and return lines, and the label on the turbo appears way too new to be original. Haven't yet checked to see if the fuel pressure updated blue spring has been installed...I have one coming anyway, and will replace it regardless. The degas bottle was one gallon low on coolant....which concerned me.....but I filled it to the add line when warmed up, and it hasn't gone through any coolant in 200 miles.

Project truck......I don't know how anyone could afford the shop rates to get this stuff done. Out of curiosity I called a local diesel shop that does a lot of this type of work.....(Has a waiting list!)....quoted me $2,100 to do just the egr delete and the oil cooler. That included the parts. Outrageous as far as I'm concerned. I'm thinking the previous owner paid an arm and a leg getting things done and gave up.
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post #2 of 4 Old 11-28-2012, 08:39 PM
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Also, be sure to check out the CCR Chat Thread. It is a chapter full of a great group of guys in the PNW.

Now, to your questions.

1.) Yes, flush it first. If you are going to switch to EC-1 coolant from the Ford Gold coolant you will want to flush with Restore and Restore +. Either way, you will certainly want to do it before replacing the oil cooler.

2.) Personally, I wouldn't install the coolant filter until after you do the flush. What you could do if you are worried about it is to do a flush and run it for a few days with the coolant filter installed. That way you ensure there is very little in the system to clog the new oil cooler.

3.) No idea. Sorry.

4.) Yes, you can do the job with the cab on. This build thread should explain how to do it. A few of the CCR members and I recently did studs on my truck with the cab on.

Oh, and it does sound like your thermostat is shot. I recommend getting a motorcraft replacement instead of just getting one an auto parts store.

You can easily do all the work yourself instead of paying someone to do it. Just takes a few tools and some mechanical know how. There are a few of us in this area that could probably lend a helping too.
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post #3 of 4 Old 11-28-2012, 08:40 PM
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Yes flush it first, wouldn't hurt to run a coolant filter for awhile before swapping coolers.

I'd throw a new thremostat in there just to see what the temps really are, but sounds like the oil cooler has seen better days.

You can take the heads off with cab on, I've never had to touch mine so I'm no expert, but others do it all the time.

Rods and mains I wouldn't worry about unless there's something wrong, it's time for rebuild at that point if you ask me.

Good luck with it!!!!

2006 6.0, innovative tunes, intake/exhaust, misplaced smog parts...blah blah blah. 1930 model A stuffed w/12v cummins, he351ve over Ht3b
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post #4 of 4 Old 11-28-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter Rookie
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Thank you for the replies

I plan on doing a lot of reading here, to familiarize myself with the Powerstroke.

I was an aircraft mechanic in the Air Force, plus do all my own diesel and gas engine work, as well as manual transmissions.....pretty much have all the tools I need, plus a couple lathes, presses, drill presses, etc to make whatever I need.

I did my homework on the 6.0 prior to purchasing seems to definitely be an engine that requires a mechanically oriented person to keep up with the maintenance on, unless money is no object. I'll definitely be sticking with Motorcraft parts. Actually had to order the thermostat today, as the local Ford dealer was out of stock. I'll check at the Freightliner and International dealer for the flush.

The automatic transmission is the only area where I am out of my least it is spotless, operates well, fluid is clean, no leaks....and I understand they are pretty much bulletproof unless you haul a lot of heavy trailers. I have the tuner, specifically to handle any CEL's after the egr delete....I don't plan on bumping up the power at all. My boat + trailer is 4500 lbs, relatively easy work for the truck.

I'll be digging into it over the Christmas weekend......I'll have all my parts in by then, and will go ahead and flush it the weekend before. I did plug in my scan tool to check the EOT and ECT when case a sensor was out of whack.....after cooling off for 9 hours, with a 46 degree outside air temp, the EOT was 59.4 F and the ECT was the sensors seem to be right on.

Basically it runs quite well right now......starts great when cold, no issues other than the 170 degree engine temp. (Which on the dash gauge shows in the bottom third of the normal scale.......)
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