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took the rig in for a egr delete and found some bad things...
ok, so i got a nice egr delete kit from custom-diesel.com and needed to have it put on. i would do it myself, but iv never messed with it. so that being said, my buddies friend (diesel mechanic) said he would install the egr delete, clean out my turbo and hook up his computer to see if anythings wrong... everything went smooth till he hooked the computer up.. turns out cylinder 2 & 3 injectors dont even start working untill the engine gets up to 120 degrees... also my ficm drops to 46.5v everynow and then. so that being said, i went ahead and had both injectors replaced, and a new ficm is in the near future. just wanted to share my story with everyone here.
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Check out ficm repair.com. Make sure your running a good quality oil, alot of us use rotella t6. Make sure your running motorcraft or racor filters and matching caps. It would be a good idea, to check your fuel pressure also, if you are not sure whether you have the updated blue fpr spring. Your injectors will thank you for all this. Get a monitor and coolant filter on that truck too.
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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Rotella T6 5w40 and REVX right away!
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I just did a oil change last week. Rotella t6 oil with all motorcraft oil and fuel filters. Also i did the blue spring update. Also it has the sinister collant systrm already on it
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Good deal, sounds like you may have had some stiction going on. Hopefully you have a monitor.
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just got her back
heres what all he did... replaced 2 injectors ( mechanic said 4 of the 8 are recently replaced..) so only 2 are origional now, new pigtail on VGT, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, updated the high pressure oil pump, fixed a few small oil leaks and went through turbo and cleaned it ( says its alot cleanre than he expected). the bill wasnt to bad for all that work.
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My FICM hit 46.5 on occasion for about 1 second. It is still ok. Once it was on 46.5 consistently I will swap
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Mine is always 46.5 or 47 sometime 48
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I wouldn't worry about the FICM unless it drops below 45V. Mine used to drop to 33V so I pulled it and did the solder reflow to the power supply board inside. Now it sits between 47.5-49V at all times (Key on, engine off; key on cranking; and key on, engine on). That FICM was one swapped out because of a no start condition under warranty in 2008, btw.
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