new 6.0 owner confused over oil and coolant - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:24 PM
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new 6.0 owner confused over oil and coolant

Bought a 6.0 F350 Halloween day to replace an F350 gas burner which was stolen Sept. 12th.
Engine has 110,900 miles as of today.
FICM went bad on Nov 9th, Dealership replaced it at their expense. Mechanic which changed the FICM told me truck has wrong coolant and I need to replace ASAP.
Okay, just picked up 4 Gal of Final Charge full concentrate. Was going to dump and flush today, replace thermostat, and refill system.
Decided to stop and ask local Diesel Performance experts if they could do the job since I just didn't feel like it. They checked the jug and said it looks like premium gold to them, probably original fill. They recommended I just drain radiator fill with water, drive and flush, keep filling with water and repeating flush till drains clear. Then drain again add 31/2 gal of coolant and top off with distilled water. They said there was no need to remove block drain plugs, or replace thermostat, and DON'T use any VC-9 or Restore flush or I would definitely end up with a clogged cooler.
Is this a viable flush or should I not listen to them?

They also told me to stay away from Rotella PERIOD! Not to even use T5 or T6, instead buy and use the most expensive synthetic I can get, that is what 6.0's prefer due to extreme engineering tolerance.
They then said they only run Kendall oil. But they are a RevX dealer and recommend I use all their additives.

I just want to change coolant, then oil (currently has Delvac). Then I need to do Oil bypass filter, coolant filter, and blue spring. Truck appears to be completely stock, and was only a 1 owner.
Not sure if there is a need for EGR delete or not.

Now, do I need to replace thermostat? Is their flush method viable or should I pull block plugs?
What is best oil? planned on T5 or T6, now having second thoughts.

Since this truck is stock and appears to never have had any mods I'm assuming it has only had oil changes and never coolant.
How should I approach oil and coolant changes to not end up with cooler issues?
If this were a gas burner I'd have been finished with everything by now, but the diesel is an alien world to me!!!!!!
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:44 PM
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Many guys running t6 without issues!!

The additives, not needed to use all of them.

The flush, I would do it the way they are offering but others will say do the chemicals. The chemicals will most likely clog your cooler. SO, I would flush with water, install elc coolant, drive until deltas start creeping up which means that oil cooler is on its way out, flush properly with chemicals which will fully clog your old bad anyways cooler, then install a new oil cooler and continue running elc coolant and you should have no issues after that.

Its a bit of a pain at first but after you do the above you'll have a fully clean system with a good cooler!

The egr delete, VERY good idea if you don't have emission testing. If you do then I would suggest a bullet proof egr cooler.


But the very very first thing you should get is a monitor to know the health of your motor!
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:04 PM
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Been plenty of conversation about the type of coolant, how to flush, when to use Restore/VC-9, and I have read and done my own research on the subject, so I will stick to what I know.
First. I know the Ford Gold to be high in silica: more than other ELC's that are available. I can understand why many people believe that the head gasket failure these trucks are known for is caused by the silica blocking coolant flow (in EGR cooler and oil cooler) and not the TTY head bolts.
Second. Unless you are willing to replace the EGR cooler and oil cooler at the time you do the flush, then I agree with the diesel shop that you should NOT use the Restore: it will be effective in removing the silica buildup and moving it along even further through the system. And that, "could/will probably" cause your coolant system to further worsen.
Third. I would suggest that you use a good oil and keep it changed every 5k. The API ratings of oils are the true comparisons: not the names. Keep it clean and the tolerances won't ***** about what color the oil jug is.

IMHO, take the time and spend the money and do the following all at once:
Flush the system and use the Restore. Remove the block drains to assist with getting the silica out. Flush until clear.
Replace the EGR cooler, or do a delete. I use and sell the Bulletproof cooler: I don't want my customers to end up with a long term solution that will make their trucks not pass emissions in the next few years (yes, it will be coming).
Replace the oil cooler and the oil valley screen. I have installed a few bypass coolers, and have built a bunch of trucks going back with a factory oil cooler. I can tell you that I have not had problems going back with a factory cooler AS LONG AS this sequence has been followed.
**For good measure, while everything is apart, rebuild the turbo and replace the unison ring. It will be on the bench while the manifold is off, so much easier than going back into the engine bay again. You might also consider doing a blue spring mod at this time, however this would be easier to do further down the road.**
After you have the system clean of silica and new coolers installed, go back with a good ELC. I use Delo Extended Life Coolant. What ever you do, avoid the Ford Gold.

Again, plenty of opinions here on what to do and what to avoid. I can tell you that on my personal driver and the other trucks we have built, same steps completed, the EOT and ECT have never varied more than 8deg apart...even in 105temp weather here in TX.


For reference
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:43 PM
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Welcome. First without a monitor, you are just guessing like anyone would do when they are not informed of the engine vitals. Before you do anything, do this......Write Up: Monitoring the 6.0L PSD.
Next, don't hesitate to install a coolant filter. Any reputable coolant filter will work, the IPR coolant filter is the best on the market.
For oil, alot of us use rotella t6 with great results. Make sure you are using motorcraft or racor filters with matching caps, only.
If after monitoring it looks like your oil cooler is clogged, I would suggest you dump your coolant, flush with tap, flush with 24 gal of distilled to get to a ph of 7, then add 3.5 gal of elc with the cat ec-1 rating. Do this with the thermostat out, and at least drain the drivers side block plug each time. Then change the oil cooler. If you flush with chemicals, you are sure to clog the oil cooler, if you do it and dont do it correctly, it will haunt you for a long time. For example, people who flush with chemicals and dont flush thoroughly enough, or can't finish once they start, and leave water in the block for a period of time, end up with major problems that follow them to no end.
If you decide to keep the egr cooler, the bpd is the best on the market. If you decide to delete, stay away from the two piece design, been hearing about recent problems. Read all the stickies. Keep reading, it takes time to absorb. Monitor, monitor, monitor.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:03 PM
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My 2 cents.

As Southend said, find out via monitor. Your ECT/EOT delta will be the biggest indicator of your emission's system health. Almost all other fixes are based on this, unless you have a leak already.

At this stage, even before a monitor, you can do a semi-simple flush, drain rad, drain block (at least one side) fill/flush with quality water from your taps is fine. Flush until clear. You may need to capture another 5-20 gallons before you can let it run freely onto the ground. You don't need to remove your thermostat. Put the plugs back in and refill. Start and run till warm, take it for a drive, then drain. This is where you have to know really how good your water is. If it is not hard, drain the rad and block, then run some more tap water through it. If it is hard, you should run demineralized or distilled water through it and then drain again. Put the plugs back in and add 3.5 gallons of ELC. Add distilled/demineralized water until you are at the correct level. You can always follow the coolant flush sticky if you have a lot of debris coming out of your system.

I would not run a chemical clean unless it is necessary. Then, expect to replace the oil cooler and perhaps some other exchangers.

Run any good quality synthetic oil, 5w40. Rotella is fine. I also use my local Co op 0W40. The engine could care less between the 2. Filter choice is critical! Motorcraft, Racor, Fram and Sure are all very good. No Wix, No NAPA - they both don't fit right!
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:39 PM
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I was running Rotella T3 in my truck for about 100,000 miles. I switched to the full synthetic and things improved. Slightly. Long story short, I had to replace the injectors when I did the head gaskets and studs.

I switched to Amsoil and haven't looked back. You'll see a lot of mis-information about Amsoil just as you will Rotella. What I can say is that whatever you use, make sure it's a synthetic. It's been my experience that the injectors love it. I never would have believed it, but I can tell a difference in the way my truck runs.

Coolant is the same way. Mis-information abounds. I use Fleet Charge and have had 0 issues. You will hear on any forum that you choose that Fleet Charge does not have the proper certifications. Be that as it may, I use it in my Class 8 Kenworth and I use it in my Ford Super Duty.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:55 PM
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Synthetic 5w40 is the oil to run. on the less expensive side is Rotella T6 which has proven itself as a good oil for the 6.0 with numerous posted Used Oil Analysis reports. I prefer Amsoil. Shaeffers 9000 is a good oil and Valvoline Extreme Blue is too.

The best coolant available on the market is Rotella Ultra ELC, period. After that is Delo ELC. Then any of the other ELC's conforming to the Cat EC-1 specification.

Get a monitoring solution and find out what shape your engine is in and go from there.
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