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Old 11-07-2012, 01:44 PM
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Changing oil questions

First time I am going to change the oil. I think it takes 15 quartz. Tell me if I'm wrong. The last owner said he always ran Amsoil. Which one should I get. There is 3 different types. What filter should I use?
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:06 PM
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OEM filters ONLY! Myself and many others run Rotella T6 5W40. It is available at walmart in blue bottles. Also, make sure you are changing your fuel filters every 10k(two oil changes). Your 6.0 will thank you.
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:53 PM
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yea man you can not go wrong with shell rotella t6. go get a motorcraft filter from walmart. or a fram. they are made by the same folks.

when it comes to oil changes and filters i stick with stock oem unless it has been shown they are a dud and there is something better.

think because motorcraft and k&n were the only ones who made a filter with a check valve in it for my stang so i always used them
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Old 11-07-2012, 02:58 PM
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Fuel filters every 15 k works for Mine

pressure never drops and filters are clean ,, it's all about fuel quality IMHO

I guess if your filters is a spin on and mounted upside down you would need a anti drain back (check valve)
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:14 PM
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I have always "heard" that it is good to do your first oil change sooner then when the manual says to, after the "break-in" period. I just got my 2012 F350 Dually and I am at 1500 miles, according to the manual I won't see my first indicator message until as far as 10k miles. Do you guys think I should change it earlier, before the first indicator pops up, and if so at what mileage?
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Old 11-16-2012, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2sikk View Post
First time I am going to change the oil. I think it takes 15 quartz. Tell me if I'm wrong. The last owner said he always ran Amsoil. Which one should I get. There is 3 different types. What filter should I use?
Since you are doing your own oil changes, might suggest picking up a Fumoto drain valve part # F-111N. Makes it easier to drain oil.

Also, might suggest getting a upgraded "Water in fuel" drain plug on your HFCM that is under the driver side door.

Find part number here, and could be found at your local Ford.

DTS Articles - HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade

Also, do not go full 15 quarts on your first change. Go with 14 and stop there. Let it settle and check. I leave my oil right around the half way marks on the stick so I can make sure that I'm not making oil at any time. (injectors can do this, nice to catch early, in my opinion)

2 good places to get filters:

Ford 6.0 Liter Turbo Diesel Truck Filters, Air Filters, Oil Filters, Transmission Filters And Glow Plugs - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

You can use Racor instead of Motorcraft for both fuel and oil. (they make Motorcraft)

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - OEM/Factory Parts

And your oil cap should be like this picture: (unless someone put in a billet cap of some sort)
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv View Post
Since you are doing your own oil changes, might suggest picking up a Fumoto drain valve part # F-111N. Makes it easier to drain oil.

Also, might suggest getting a upgraded "Water in fuel" drain plug on your HFCM that is under the driver side door.

Find part number here, and could be found at your local Ford.

DTS Articles - HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade

Also, do not go full 15 quarts on your first change. Go with 14 and stop there. Let it settle and check. I leave my oil right around the half way marks on the stick so I can make sure that I'm not making oil at any time. (injectors can do this, nice to catch early, in my opinion)

2 good places to get filters:

Ford 6.0 Liter Turbo Diesel Truck Filters, Air Filters, Oil Filters, Transmission Filters And Glow Plugs - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks

You can use Racor instead of Motorcraft for both fuel and oil. (they make Motorcraft)

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: - OEM/Factory Parts

And your oil cap should be like this picture: (unless someone put in a billet cap of some sort)
Do you know if that HFCM will fit a 2012 6.7L? Is it even needed on my model or was it a problem fixed on the 6.7L? I love that Fumoto drain valve idea, I'm definitely getting one of those. Thanks for that idea. Even though my truck is brand new, I am planning on doing my own oil changes, I'm sure as long as I keep the receipts and stuff that it should be proof enough to Ford that they were done and won't give me any warranty arguments.
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2sikk View Post
First time I am going to change the oil. I think it takes 15 quartz. Tell me if I'm wrong. The last owner said he always ran Amsoil. Which one should I get. There is 3 different types. What filter should I use?
The AMSOIL that you need to use is the Diesel/Marine 15w-40. Get the Gallon jugs it's a better deal. I understand everyone on here says to run OEM oil filters, but I have NEVER had a problem with the Wix Oil Filter. I have been using them for 7 years now, so what's that about 15 - 20 oil changes....BTW it is 15 quarts not 16.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadly329 View Post
The AMSOIL that you need to use is the Diesel/Marine 15w-40. Get the Gallon jugs it's a better deal. I understand everyone on here says to run OEM oil filters, but I have NEVER had a problem with the Wix Oil Filter. I have been using them for 7 years now, so what's that about 15 - 20 oil changes....BTW it is 15 quarts not 16.
He said 15 quarts and those WIX filters are garbage. Your not getting the full use out of your filters abilities I can guarantee that. There is a reason we all promote OEM filters.

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Old 11-17-2012, 02:35 PM
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Never had a problem with them.
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