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post #1 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 03:55 AM Thread Starter
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oil cooler replacement - cleaning hpop reservoir and other dumb questions

Getting ready to do oil cooler change and have a few questions.

Regarding the cleanup of the reservoir and engine valley area prior to installation of the new cooler. I am sure many have seen srmastertech's youtube videos on the procedure. My question is, he uses brake cleaner to get this area all nice and clean, and a ton of it goes into the reservoir (and he does suction what appears to be most of it out). Is this ok, or is brake cleaner going to be in the oil system if you do this?

I am also planning on doing the STC fitting, stand pipes, and dummy plugs, but am not having any problems with the current parts. Is this a must do while I am that far in? The truck has 84000 mi on it.

Also, I am runnning synthetic oil and have a pretty fresh change (less than 500mi). Do I have to do an oil change? I was told by one shop that they could do the oil cooler change w/o changing the oil. If the answer is yes, I would still put on a new filter.

Also, what is wrong with the tourbo oil feed tube with the braided line? Considering replacing this while i am in there. The drain tube appears to already be current.

Last question, while I am in there, if I can reach all the studs, I was planning on retorqueing them to spec, just in case. Is this ok?

My truck runs really good, but I have a Delta of about 15-20 on the highway, unloaded. I brought it down from 30-40 with a series of flushes (restore and restore +), but still not within spec. EOT just barely cracking 220...usually hanging at 218.

Thanks for all the help,
George M

-
2005 PSD 6.0 FX4, STUDS, DELETE, 4" MBRP TURBO BACK EXHAUST, SRL+ TUNE, BLUE SPRING, CAT1/ELC COOLANT, SINISTER COOLANT FILTER, SYNTHETIC OIL, ARCHOIL FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES, TORQUE APP MONITOR SYSTEM
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfmanrescue View Post
Getting ready to do oil cooler change and have a few questions.

Regarding the cleanup of the reservoir and engine valley area prior to installation of the new cooler. I am sure many have seen srmastertech's youtube videos on the procedure. My question is, he uses brake cleaner to get this area all nice and clean, and a ton of it goes into the reservoir (and he does suction what appears to be most of it out). Is this ok, or is brake cleaner going to be in the oil system if you do this? I use brake cleaner, but I haven't seen his videos. I use it on a rag and clean that way. I'd rather not have that stuff going through my injectors

I am also planning on doing the STC fitting, stand pipes, and dummy plugs, but am not having any problems with the current parts. Is this a must do while I am that far in? The truck has 84000 mi on it. The STC fitting YES, but the others can wait if you want. The tech that did mine, said it's not a matter of IF they'll fail, it's WHEN

Also, I am runnning synthetic oil and have a pretty fresh change (less than 500mi). Do I have to do an oil change? I was told by one shop that they could do the oil cooler change w/o changing the oil. If the answer is yes, I would still put on a new filter. I would change it. When you remove that oil cooler, oil will go everywhere anyway, and if you're planning to change the oil in the HPOP reservior..... Just be sure to fill that reservior before installing the new oil cooler

Also, what is wrong with the tourbo oil feed tube with the braided line? Considering replacing this while i am in there. The drain tube appears to already be current. I still have the old one

Last question, while I am in there, if I can reach all the studs, I was planning on retorqueing them to spec, just in case. Is this ok? This, I'm not real sure about. I guess you could try it and report back, but I've never heard of it being done. But I've heard of studs being replaced one at a time, and things going great

My truck runs really good, but I have a Delta of about 15-20 on the highway, unloaded. I brought it down from 30-40 with a series of flushes (restore and restore +), but still not within spec. EOT just barely cracking 220...usually hanging at 218.

Thanks for all the help,
George M
Hope that helps, my replies in red


2006 F350 SOLD
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* 08 style mirrors
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* Edge Insight CTS
*Full Bulletproof Diesel kit with remote oil cooler
* Blue FPR spring
* 6.4 Banjos
* Repaired FICM by BPD
* Dfuser coolant filter
* Stage1 MTW turbo



New truck has a Cummins and a handshaker

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post #3 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 04:52 AM
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I sucked out the oil but didn't clean the area. Once the oil was out, it looked clean to me and I didn't want to risk contaminating the area so I left it be.

Regarding an oil change just do it. You'll be messing with the internals of the engine where all sorts of contaminates can get in there. Changing the oil you'll know that you took the most precautions possible for a successful job.

On another note. I am glad to see that you WERE able to reduce your delta's with flushing, had you reverse flushed the oil cooler as well?

- Karl
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 06:13 AM
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The liner of the turbo line breaks down and cloggs up the turbo resulting in a burnt up turbo. The return line.....I didn't see much difference in the original hand bent one and the new one, but it was only about a $10 part so I put it on.

Be aware your oil filter housing top plate will not work with the updated feed line and its about a $300 part BUT it dose come with the new style feed line.
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 07:56 AM
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Help full tip: before you disconnect the fuel lines at the upper fuel bowl, put a cable tie (zip tie) behind the nut so the nut don't slide down the fuel lines.





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post #6 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 08:23 AM
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I had less than 100 miles on my oil so I bought a bucket and lid. I cleaned the bottom of the oil pan then dumped the oil into the bucket and sealed it. Im not waisting over $150 in oil.

04 Excursion 4in lift
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portcity_gt View Post
The liner of the turbo line breaks down and cloggs up the turbo resulting in a burnt up turbo. The return line.....I didn't see much difference in the original hand bent one and the new one, but it was only about a $10 part so I put it on.

Be aware your oil filter housing top plate will not work with the updated feed line and its about a $300 part BUT it dose come with the new style feed line.
I thought the 05s had the updated housing cover that takes the collar/bolt mount.

-
2005 PSD 6.0 FX4, STUDS, DELETE, 4" MBRP TURBO BACK EXHAUST, SRL+ TUNE, BLUE SPRING, CAT1/ELC COOLANT, SINISTER COOLANT FILTER, SYNTHETIC OIL, ARCHOIL FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES, TORQUE APP MONITOR SYSTEM
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post #8 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfmanrescue View Post
I thought the 05s had the updated housing cover that takes the collar/bolt mount.
They do, it was the early 04's and 03's that had the other style


2006 F350 SOLD
* KMC XD Monsters wrapped in Hankook ATM's
* 08 style mirrors
* 4" TB exhaust
* SCT X2 with Gearhead, PHP and ID tunes
* Edge Insight CTS
*Full Bulletproof Diesel kit with remote oil cooler
* Blue FPR spring
* 6.4 Banjos
* Repaired FICM by BPD
* Dfuser coolant filter
* Stage1 MTW turbo



New truck has a Cummins and a handshaker

Is it 2016 yet?
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilpooh View Post
Help full tip: before you disconnect the fuel lines at the upper fuel bowl, put a cable tie (zip tie) behind the nut so the nut don't slide down the fuel lines.





Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
Thanks. Will make sure to do this

-
2005 PSD 6.0 FX4, STUDS, DELETE, 4" MBRP TURBO BACK EXHAUST, SRL+ TUNE, BLUE SPRING, CAT1/ELC COOLANT, SINISTER COOLANT FILTER, SYNTHETIC OIL, ARCHOIL FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES, TORQUE APP MONITOR SYSTEM
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-18-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nylyon View Post
I sucked out the oil but didn't clean the area. Once the oil was out, it looked clean to me and I didn't want to risk contaminating the area so I left it be.

Regarding an oil change just do it. You'll be messing with the internals of the engine where all sorts of contaminates can get in there. Changing the oil you'll know that you took the most precautions possible for a successful job.

On another note. I am glad to see that you WERE able to reduce your delta's with flushing, had you reverse flushed the oil cooler as well?

Yes I reversed flush the cooler and heater core after the restore flush with a ton of water kinking and unkinking the hose several times. Then I reasembled and flushed more water through the degas bottle. Then did the restore +, but did not backflush again because I thought that port on the cooler was such PITA to get to. I just flushed a ton through the Degas. I wonder if I would have had better results with another backflush. I also installed my coolant filter during my flush process.

-
2005 PSD 6.0 FX4, STUDS, DELETE, 4" MBRP TURBO BACK EXHAUST, SRL+ TUNE, BLUE SPRING, CAT1/ELC COOLANT, SINISTER COOLANT FILTER, SYNTHETIC OIL, ARCHOIL FUEL AND OIL ADDITIVES, TORQUE APP MONITOR SYSTEM
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