ARP studs in, do i have to re-torque

[master1973]

Ok this is what i've done. I cleaned block holes with air and brake clean. Ran a good factory bolt up and down three times then brake clean and air again. The studs hand tightened to bottom with ease. I added ultra torque assembley lube and torqued nuts in three passes to 150 then broke one at a time added a little more lube and brought up to 210. Then i went through them all again in sequence cracking them loose then back to 210. i am using factory head gaskets also. What i want to know is if I will need to re-torque after i get back on the road, or am I good???

thanks

Ben

[Snake]

Lately I've been reading about several people getting to specs, breaking the nuts loose one at a time, then re-torquing. Where did this guidance come from? And why three passes to get to 150 ft/lbs? Based on what I recently read on ARP's website, it should be three steps to get to 210 ft/lbs (70, 140, then 210).

You're asking about a hot re-torque, and no, its not something you need to do.

[SharkDiver]

I never heard of people cracking them loose then retorquing them. That doesnt even sound like a good idea. I know you dont have to retorque them once you get them to 210.