![]() |
Please Visit our Site Sponsors
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Questions? Oil filter housing is dry. With pics.
Hoping my buddies can help out.
Ok, my truck has sat up more than I have driven it. After hanging out here and gettin edjumucated, i've noticed my oil pressure idiot guage is slow to rise when my truck sits for more than a few minutes, and it takes a few seconds more than I am comfortable with to start. I installed a motorcraft filter, and it already had what looks like a motorcraft cap. So i've been guessing that my oil drainback valve is broke causing the oil to drain out of the housing causing the delay in starting and the idiot guage from jumping up quickly. So I just pulled the oil filter out quickly, it hasn't been started for over 12 hrs. This is what I found, pictures taken seconds after I pulled it out. Not a drip of oil came off the filter. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So apparently the valve is bad, I'm going to change it. I also want to inspect the oil cooler bypass valve. Am I missing anything, and does anyone know if the oil cooler bypass valve is available? Btw-my local ford dealer parts desk knuckleheads will be of no help to me on a part #, ask me how I know. Lol. Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
|||
|
I'm not 100% but I believe the bypass valve is only part of the upper oil cooler housing.
The part number for the drainback valve is 3C3Z-6800-A Try depressing the drainback valve with a long screwdriver or something and adding some oil to the filter housing. I've never checked a cold oil filter to see if it still had any oil in it or not |
|
|||
|
Quote:
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
|
|||
|
Does this help?
|
|
|||
|
Yes, amdrevlin, i've seen that, couldnt remember where I had it. So i've been talking about the filter drain valve that I thought was bad. It's looking like that may not be the case, but maybe it's the antidrainback valve thats my problem, because like I said earlier in the pic, it drains down to that level where the housing is shiny in the pic. The filter drain is higher than that. What do ya'll think? Or maybe my oil cooler bypass valve.
Thank for the help so far! Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
|
|||
|
The last time I had my oil cooler out, I took a good look at my anti-drain valve. It had a slight groove/ring worn into the brass. Luckily I had a spare sitting here from another project that was in better shape. I took the spare to work and gave her a scotch brite polish on the lathe.
Maybe you have a groove/ring worn bad enough to make the valve stick open. Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide |
|
|||
|
lilpooh, do you know if the anti-drainback valve is available seperately? I worked in a precision valve shop back in the day, I polished countless parts on a lathe. Sometimes new softgoods was the only way to make it better again.
On another note, I know a guy on here that posted that he changed a "customers" oil cooler bypass valve, that solved a high delta problem. That leads me to believe that it is available seperately. I can't remember what post it was. I've read many deadended post on the oil cooler bypass valve. Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
|
|||
|
I don't know if it's sold separately.
Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide |
|
|||
|
Quote:
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
|
|||
|
Are you wearing Flippy Flops?!?!?! He He!
Sorry Bryan, I couldn't resist! LOL! Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide |
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|