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Quote:
Edit: I meant calipers.......hehe. You know. Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. Last edited by southend; 10-02-2012 at 05:52 PM. |
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Ok, that eliminates the filter.
Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide |
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While I had the standpipe out, I slid the filter down on it tightly, snapped the cap on the filter, compressed it as it seats. Then I measured from the edge where the cap seats to the bottom of the filter. I then measured from the edge of the housing down to the filter drain, as the drain valve contacted the seat, I was measuring 1/16th or less to the edge of the filter housing as the cap would seat. That would be the amount of push on the spring button on the filter drain valve. Slight tension on the button, maybe the little button and seat have worn down a little, just didn't look like it. I will do a side by side comparison on the old and new, filter drain valve.
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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Got the new filter drain valve in, PN - 3C3Z 6800 A. There are actually a few differences, looks like they beefed the plastic up a bit. Side by side comparison, new one on the right.
Pointing at the sealing surface. There is a different spring height, the spring that holds the valve open. No big deal. ![]() ![]() ![]() Two of these supports are wider. ![]() Here there are new guides added to help keep it straight on the seating surface. And there is a small bit of reinforcement at the base of the legs to help prevent breakage. ![]() The button on top appeared to be slightly taller, and the seat may have been slightly lower. The point of engagement after install was slightly better, than the old one, meaning the pressure applied was a bit greater. Slightly over 1/16th of an inch. On cold startup I have been seeing 4-5 sec for the dummy guage to jump up. I cranked it up and ran it to op temp, I will let it sit overnight and tomorow, then pull the cap and see if the filter housing is empty again. Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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Southend once again great write up, has me wondering if this could be part or all of my issue were I can't start my truck up if it's not parked facing down hill. my oil pressure gauge acts the same 4 seconds or more before I see come up.
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Thanks poorboy, I pulled the filter quickly, and it has drained down again. So like I said in the beginning, I think the anti drain back valve is the problem, if the filter drain valve didn't fix it. Still about a 4 - 5 sec delay before the dummy guage jumps up when cold started. That would require me to change the oil cooler top assembly. I'm going to wait on that and update if/when it happens.
Poorboy, one of those two likely problems, is your reason for your delay in your dummy guage. I finally read about a guy who said his hpop shaft seal was bad, and that was the reason he had to park nose down to start his truck. Apparently oil was draining out. Idk. I forgot who was having that problem, I think it was someone else also. That may not be good news for you, but I hope that helps. BTW, It was on another forum, and i'm no expert on hpo pumps. Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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How long is the truck taking to start southend? The dummy gauge on mine takes 4ish seconds from starting to crank before it jumps up as well but I don't have the OEM filter.
I thought I've seen through my reading that the gauge normally doesn't move until the truck has started. I guess if the crank time was long enough the gauge might move before it started but mine never has.Does anyone really care what I used to send this? |
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Quote:
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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Any updates if this fixed the problem?
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I still haven't changed the oil cooler cover that has the two check valves. I'm not looking forward to buying the cover plus an oil cooler, mine oil cooler is clogged right now, 24° delta. I will update if/when I change the cover with the two valves.
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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