I just bought myself a ScanGaugeII a couple weeks ago when I learned I should've been watching my FICM voltages and EOT vs ECT temps. This was in addition to the EGT, boost, and Trans temp gauges I added a few years ago.
I was getting a delta-T of 16-degrees, so I started shopping for parts. At 116k miles I was still on my original EGR cooler. It lasted because I had done an EGR block off around 60k miles. I decided to change my EGR cooler out prematurely for a few reasons. First, to get the oil cooler it was coming out anyway. Second, I'm in CA and have to pass smog inspection every two years. I've passed with the block off plate since they can't see it on the visual inspection, but it'd be safer (legal wise) to have a functioning EGR cooler. Third, since the part has such a high failure rate, at 116k miles I'll just feel better with a new one in there.
The BulletProofDiesel fully bullet proof kit was out of my budget, so I ended up with the semi-bullet proof kit, which keeps the factory Oil cooler. From what I've read the Ford coolant was the primary reason for the oil cooler failure, so I made sure to do the coolant flush immediately before tearing the motor down.
I'm not a stranger to wrenching. I do almost all of my own maintenance. Last year I also completed a nut and bolt restoration/build up of a 1966 FJ40, including swapping in a fuel injected V8. That said... this job was a bear! I've been under the Ford extended warranty until now, so the most work I'd ever done on the 6.0L was limited to oil changes, fuel filters, and engine accessory belts... along with a few add-ons like gauges, exhaust, tunes.
In addition to the oil cooler and EGR cooler I tried to get all the other common failure items. The dealer had just done the blue spring fuel regulator mod a couple months ago and the truck already had the updated turbo feed and drain lines from a warrantied turbo replacement.
Admittedly I'm not the fastest turning wrenches, and I'm pretty anal on reassembly, taking the time to clean everything before it goes back together... but this job set me back 35 hrs, not including the coolant flush!
After finishing my coolant flush I pulled it into the garage without coolant and started the teardown. I had found a thread here where a member had PDFs of the International engine manuals, but hadn't been successful getting a copy. Once I was into the teardown I realized I still didn't have the torque specs for reassembly. Doh! Many thanks to Tuscany for coming through for me.
The broken screen wasn't a huge surprise, seems like most of them are... why is that? The surprise was that the Ford tech broke a bolt for the turbo pedestal off in my motor and left it there. I was able to use a chisel and hammer, along with some penetrating oil, to get it to back out without too much effort.
The only other surprise on the teardown was the screen was off the end of the Injector Pressure Regulator IPR and the o-ring was in pieces.
Initially I was going to skip the dummy plugs and stand pipes, but once I tore into it and saw the hours involved, I changed my mind. I couldn't see having to tear this deep into the motor because I had been too busy or cheap to do them now. I was penalized an extra $50 at my local dealer compared to what I would have paid BPD if I had just ordered them from the get go.
I was rewarded with this though... bad o-ring on a dummy plug. Glad its out of my motor.
The intake manifold came pretty clean with parts cleaner, a toothbrush, and a pressure washer. It wasn't too coked up, and was soaked wet with oil.
Here it's coming back together, nice and clean. I forgot to take any pics with the valve covers off. It does look nice with the clean aluminum and black valve covers.
Being a turbo-rookie I felt the shaft play on the turbo and thought it was on its way out. I actually called Adrian of MadTurboWerks and was prepared to plunk down some cash to get a Stage 1, even though a turbo is beyond my budget right now. Adrian was a true gentleman and talked to me about my existing turbo. He explained to me that the play was feeling was normal and as long as its not excessive enough to where the blades can scrape the housing its good to go. Now that's good customer service. Turning down an easy sale and giving away some free technical support. He may not have made a sale today, but he's now guaranteed I'll be buying a turbo from him in the future because I know what an honest guy he is. Thanks again Adrian!
The turbo seemed to be really lacking at low RPMs lately, so I took the time to go into the turbo and clean the unison ring and vanes. Found a how-to on Youtube that was confidence building before tearing into the turbo.
Turbo didn't look too shabby on disassembly, but I guess looks are deceiving. It really came back to life after a good cleaning. Pulling away from a stop is so much easier now... wish I had done the turbo cleaning before last month when I was pulling my 13k pound toy hauler around.
I prefilled my oil filter housing with oil as I reassembled, and before attempting to start it I turned the key to on and let the fuel pump run several times. Still... it took a full 60 seconds of cranking before it came to life. Not all in one shot... 10 seconds cranking, then 1-2 minutes to rest the starter each time. This would have scared the hell out of me if I hadn't first read some posts on how long guys have had to crank to get them motor back to life after this job. Funny thing though was I didn't have any of the lasting effects like other people reported as air works out of the HPOP. Once it started it was right back to normal, not so much as a hiccup.
I do notice that when starting the engine, while my truck still cranks for the same amount of time before starting (about 1.0-1.5 seconds) it now starts with authority... sounds much stronger. Also sound like it is idling quieter than before. Can anyone clue me in to why these changes happened? I was guessing the HPOP is working better now with the updated STC fitting and maybe that explains the stronger starts, but I've got no idea on why its quieter.
I should also put a plug in for BPD. They sold a very complete kit and got it delivered when promised.
This obviously was not a meant to be a step by step how-to like other guys have done. I just wanted to share what I accomplished and thank you guys for all the great info and support here.