Alternator/Charging issues

[Alpha Male]

About a week ago, my battery light randomly came on, had the alternator tested and it was bad. I changed the alternator out with a 130amp O'reilly. Battery light still showed, so I checked the batteries a couple days later. One was dead, and the other was good to recharge, but I just went ahead and replaced them both.
Still, my battery light is on. I had a mechanic check everything out yesterday, thinking it was maybe a loose wire or something, and he said everything looked good.

I really want the DC 270amp, with 1 gauge charge cables but right now I can't really dish out $540 + the extra for a 3' and 75" charge cables.

Any ideas what I can do/check to make this thing work until I can get the DC?
Is there a possibility that the thing is still throwing a code, and my alternator is charging like it's supposed to? Or do codes only show up on the orange wrench and check engine lights?

[ZMANN]

DC used to have a Large case OEM version for about $300 I have it and it's fine make your own upgrade cable to parallel the oem

I think your alt is your issue typical diode and you would be surprised what the alt would look like if opened up ,, my rebuilt had mostly old parts except for some diodes

if nothing else get your money back and get the ford reman

[ZMANN]

ps you mention codes?? what codes ?

there can be soft codes =no CEL or CEL codes ,,

if your talking about the charge light I do not think it has a code associated

[lenzhotrod]

You need to find out if there are any codes! Heck you changed the alternator and both batteries only other thing in the system is the wiring. What is your votage reading on your system when running? Is your alternator plug in tight and your connections clean. New/rebuilt units can be bad out of the box. Are you sure your light is on for the charging system.

[Alpha Male]

Originally Posted by ZMANN

DC used to have a Large case OEM version for about $300 I have it and it's fine make your own upgrade cable to parallel the oem

I think your alt is your issue typical diode and you would be surprised what the alt would look like if opened up ,, my rebuilt had mostly old parts except for some diodes

if nothing else get your money back and get the ford reman

What do you mean by make your own upgrade cable to parallel?

Also lenz, I don't believe I have any codes. I don't have a CEL or a wrench, it's just the red battery light at the left side, on the bottom.

[ZMANN]

I just made a secondary cable to go from the ALT charge post to the battery just to help the OEM cable

I don't have any high amp loads other than an amp /aux fan ETC so I didn't need some monster cables to handle crazy amperage

[Alpha Male]

Ah, I see. The money for the charge cables isn't too much of an issue. It's just the $540 for the 270amp that's supposed to be DC's best. Should I just get a new alternator and see if that's the issue? Lifetime warranty.. Haha.

Lenz, I don't have my own voltmeter, but I used the one at O'reillys and running it was 13.8v.

[ZMANN]

u can try ,,, no harm but I have seen people go through more than one without resolve just to swap in a motorcraft rebuild and problem solved

and all the Oriley AZ units test fine .. that light will illuminate with an over/undercharge

[Alpha Male]

So their's basically just says everything is okay and gives phony numbers?

What's a good brand voltmeter for testing batteries, alternators and possibly FICM?

[ZMANN]

what false numbers??

you haven't mentioned a # ?