Oil Cooler Replacement-what else do I need to do while everything's apart? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-06-2012, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Oil Cooler Replacement-what else do I need to do while everything's apart?

Getting deltas of 20* or more.

Truck is a '04 with a service body on it. 5 speed manual (really 6 speed) 4x4. Gonna have the EGR blocked off or replaced with an upgraded model.

Going back I guess with the improved Ford Oil Cooler, already switched and will stay with CAT ELC. Got a sinister coolant filter that will be installed once new cooler is in.

We're going to clean the turbo also.

What else? HPOP intake screen? Any injectors or glow plugs that are easy to get to while apart?

Might do normal stuff like radiator hoses and belts etc.

Suggestions welcome

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-07-2012, 01:44 AM
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For starters your on the right path since you already replaced the coolant with elc. I would personally flush it again with restore and restore+ before the oil cooler rebuild and add new fresh ELC.

Then if it were me I would seriously consider buying the IPR remote oil cooler relocation kit. It moves the OEM oil cooler from the valley deep inside the top of the engine to a remote mount by the hot side CAC. This does 2 things, 1 it allows faster and easier more convenient rebuilds of the oil cooler (if you have ANY mechanical ability this can be accomplished in 30 mins to 1 hour). 2 it adds a coolant filter directly to the oil cooler inlet where as the stock configuration doesn't allow for that at all it will only allow for a bypass setup running off of the heater core. This setup will allow you to add their full flow self servicing coolant filtration kit to the cooling system directly inline in front for a 100% filtration of coolant BEFORE it enters the oil cooler.

I would then consider the IPR EGR delete kit. Depending on the state you live in you may be able to get away with it. Being that your that far into the engine already I always recommend considering doing the studs and gaskets. Its going to cost significantly more money for studs and gaskets but the extra money now is insurance for later when you won't have to worry about it going bad on you later, possibly leaving you standed or without your work truck (aka money maker). Just a suggestion but on the flip side of that same coin I also recommend if it ain't broke don't fix it. (lol I know a complete contradiction) but the studs are worth at least considering being you will be this far into the engine now and its only a couple hours more work to have the heads off and on the way to the machine shop. Either way good luck and hope this helps.

I would also consider opening up the exhaust a bit you will see better mileage and power gains with a SCT tuner with custom tunes and and open exhaust to get the hot EGT's out and away from the engine.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-07-2012, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the post.

I'm not doing the heads right now. I have not yet had any sign that they are bad or compromised and the only way I would know my cooler is plugged is because of my Edge CTS insight. If I was going to run tunes etc. I might think about it.

I looked at the remote coolers. They are nice, but pricey. I'm confident that I can solve the stock cooler issue by doing another good flush and run with ELC+ filter.

It's a work truck, I'm not doing anything more than necessary to keep it rolling down the road. Right now I'm getting 12-13 mpg and I feel that is really good with the load I'm carrying. We're going to weld the EGR inlet shut also to solve that problem.



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Originally Posted by Tuscany View Post
For starters your on the right path since you already replaced the coolant with elc. I would personally flush it again with restore and restore+ before the oil cooler rebuild and add new fresh ELC.

Then if it were me I would seriously consider buying the IPR remote oil cooler relocation kit. It moves the OEM oil cooler from the valley deep inside the top of the engine to a remote mount by the hot side CAC. This does 2 things, 1 it allows faster and easier more convenient rebuilds of the oil cooler (if you have ANY mechanical ability this can be accomplished in 30 mins to 1 hour). 2 it adds a coolant filter directly to the oil cooler inlet where as the stock configuration doesn't allow for that at all it will only allow for a bypass setup running off of the heater core. This setup will allow you to add their full flow self servicing coolant filtration kit to the cooling system directly inline in front for a 100% filtration of coolant BEFORE it enters the oil cooler.

I would then consider the IPR EGR delete kit. Depending on the state you live in you may be able to get away with it. Being that your that far into the engine already I always recommend considering doing the studs and gaskets. Its going to cost significantly more money for studs and gaskets but the extra money now is insurance for later when you won't have to worry about it going bad on you later, possibly leaving you standed or without your work truck (aka money maker). Just a suggestion but on the flip side of that same coin I also recommend if it ain't broke don't fix it. (lol I know a complete contradiction) but the studs are worth at least considering being you will be this far into the engine now and its only a couple hours more work to have the heads off and on the way to the machine shop. Either way good luck and hope this helps.

I would also consider opening up the exhaust a bit you will see better mileage and power gains with a SCT tuner with custom tunes and and open exhaust to get the hot EGT's out and away from the engine.

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-07-2012, 03:12 PM
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stainless hpop screen, updated stc fitting on hpop, ipr screen, standpipes and dummy plugs, updated turbo drain and feed tubes. and you already mentioned the cat elc, cleaning turbo and coolant filter. i know it looks like alot but its not that expensive and prevents almost all know failures.
if i forgot anything anyone feel free to add.

06 f350: 8" ICON 2.5 resi's, ouo ala's, pmf track bar, dual stabilizers, custom 5" exhaust, 37" BFG km2's, 4.30s, 08 tailgate w/step, 08 tail lights, coolant filter, BPB oil cooler w/p 58v ficm and radiator, ARPs, 175cc, MTW s1 billet, ported intake, egr delete, onboard air and gearhead tunes
All the above just to haul the 900hp street mustang
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-07-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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I forgot to add that we are going to replace the HPOP. does my '04 have the stc fitting? I thought the fitting was a later add on.

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-20-2012, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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We are just about done with the rebuild. I stopped by my mechanic's place the other day and he showed me that the oil cooler doesn't look to be new. He said it looks like it's the original cooler. The OASIS report said that the cooler was changed at 80,000 miles, but he thinks it's the original. He said that the newer ones look different and that this one looked like the ones they put in back in '04. As far as I'm concerned having dealer performed warranty work isn't hardly worth the paper they write the receipt on. I think they just did some kind of fancy flush and never did fix it right, I heard Ford was denying a lot of claims back in those days and came pretty close to going bankrupt like GM and Chrysler.

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-20-2012, 04:15 PM
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it depends on the date when the original cooler was done. The service kits weren't always available and I'm sure the 11 row coolant passage wasn't always there.

-Matt

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post #8 of 11 Old 08-26-2012, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Cooler is done and EGR is "fixed". Also replaced 3 injectors, truck runs much better now.

Question: With my loaded truck (13,000+lbs) my EOT is running about 198-202* (before was 220-230*+). I was hoping it would stay in the mid 190's with a new coolor even with it being loaded. My mechanic, who is a trusted friend, was also kinda suprised it was still running high. He says he never sees a truck get the cooler replaced before it ruptures the EGR cooler. By the time he seems them it's after they cause a problem.

I have my sinister coolant filter installed and CAT ELC (Zerex brand) so I'm hoping this is the last time. I also did a good flush before taking it in. ECT's run a solid 190-192* and the radiator is new.

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-26-2012, 06:41 PM
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If your pulling a load it's going to raise your delta's. The test for the delta's is 60-65 mph on flat ground with no load on the engine for about 5-10 miles then take you measurement of temps. Also this is done unloaded.

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post #10 of 11 Old 08-27-2012, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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The truck cannot be unloaded. I am going to watch the temps and make sure they are staying steady. We are all flat land here in S. Tx, no hills etc.

2004 6.0 F-350
Service Body-Truck weighs 13,000+ lbs
120K miles and counting
Munice Hydraulic PTO
Std. Transmission
Edge Insight CTS
Bone Stock
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