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Old 07-15-2012, 02:47 PM
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Oil cooler delta's and replacement...

I know this has been discussed over and over BUT...

I can't decide if I need to replace my oil cooler or not. I did the coolant flush and ELC coolant about a year and a half ago. I also installed a coolant filter at the same time. Upon replacing the first filter and opening it I found very little sand in it. I've been watching my EOT and ECT via the Edge CTS. After a 700 mile trip last week I noticed that my temp deltas was reaching that magical 15 degree point. Outside temps we're in the 90's cruising speed was 70 to 75 on mostly flat ground. My temps was running from 10 to 13 degrees difference. So this has got me thinking that my oil cooler might be partially clogged. Looking for opinions on if I need to replace or not.

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Old 07-15-2012, 03:33 PM
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Me personally, I'd plan on doing it soon, but I'm pretty picky about my truck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:37 PM
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I would start assembling the parts and get everything together for the job. You are deleted, that may buy you a little time before it would become required. But in the end, you know you are at or close to one, make it happen on your timeframe.
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:44 PM
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Yup ^^^ 15* = time to plan
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:52 PM
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No, I dont think you need a new cooler.

It will cost you a couple of hundred dollars to try to restore the cooler.
But I do believe there is a way. I have done it on mine with great success.

Material needed:
1 pump from northern tool - Portable Transfer Pump — 115 Volt, 5/8in., Model# 50AC110B | Utility Pumps| Northern Tool + Equipment
Or similar pump.

About 15 to 20 feet of 3/4 x 1/2 clear vinyl tubing
Enough fittings to connect 2 garden hose fitting to the hose.

One 3/4 ball valve a kc nipple and a couple of close 3/4 nipples.
The one pictured is steel, but are available in plastic.
http://www.royalsupply.com/store/pc/...3914p66491.htm


About 10 to 15 feet of 1/2 x 3/8 clear tubing.

2 clean 5 gallon buckets ( optional to have 1 plastic and one metal)

1 small kiddy wading pool.

Optional heating element to heat the chemical you are using.

A couple of rolls of the blue shop towels on a roll, and a large funnel.

Start by pressure washing the underside of your vehicle around the front cover and the steering stabilize and crossmember. Squeaky clean.

First place some of the blue shop towels around the outlet port of Oil Cooler so that if you do drop anything it will not get lost in the valley.

Remove the outlet port of the oil cooler that is under the turbo. Most will tell you you will Need to build a special tool to get two the torx headed bolts but I have found you don't.

Take a 1/4 inch socket set with about 10 inches of extensions and one swivel joint on the very end and place a 1/4 socket on the end of it. Find the appropriate torx bit to fit the screws in the cap. To hold the torx bit into the socket insert a piece of the blue towel into the socket along with the bit, making sure it gets on the sides of the tork bit.

Place about 10 feet of 3/4 x 1/2 hose into the outlet port of the oil cooler it will it snugly in the port. The other end will have one of the KC nipple in the other end of the hose with a 3/4 in ball vale on it and an adapter to hook it to a water hose.

Next drain the anti freeze out at the drain on the bottom of the radiator into one of the 5 gallon buckets for reuse later.

Next remove the shrouds from around the fan, then remove the fan, fan pulley and the water pump.

You will notice various passages inside the front cover for coolant flow. Plug the bottom passage and the big hole in the center of the front cover where the pump when.

Place the kiddy wading pool under the truck to catch the water from the dedicated passage to the oil collier that will exit at the top of the big hole were the water pump went and run down into the kiddy pool. If you got the under carriage clean enough the kiddy pool will catch the contaminants from the oil cooler and you will be able to see some of crud that comes out of the cooler when it it flushed with plain water. Kink the hose or turn the valve off and on to create a surge pressure to dislodge more debris.

I did mine for about 2 hours off and on before I was satisfied I wasn't going to get anymore out by that method.

I'll finish this in the morning.... Nite nite

Last edited by SHOOTER22250; 07-16-2012 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:41 AM
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Next take the 3/8 x 1/2 tubing a insert it into the hole in the top of the front cover where the water goes out. It may take a few try's as you have to get it at the right angle and it is a fairly tight fit. Once inserted push it as far as it will go.

Take the other end of small tubing and insert it into the bucket. Next hook up about a 5 foot piece of the bigger hose to the suction side of the pump and insert it into the bucket. Hook the other end of the bigger hose to the outlet side of the pump.

The smaller hose will not seal completely in the front cover so you may have to slow down the flow by pinching the hose. Catch any fluid that get by the smaller hose so you can use it again.

I used Evaporust on flush mine, but you could use restore, restore +, VC9 or any other chemical you like.

If you take the time you could use a metal container and heat the fluid to help it with the flushing process.

I recirculated mine for about 45 minutes and then let it set for about 45 minutes, the did it again and again all day long.

Then flushed with water , both ways, and put it back together. if you desire you can reuse the coolant you removed when draining. I'd did, but I filtered it with a blue towels before putting back in.

My deltas dropped from 40 to 8 and have maintained it ever since.

Just my .02. Your results may vary.
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:34 AM
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How long has this been, since you flushed it? Do you have a coolant filter also?

Sent from my SCH-I500
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:54 AM
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It's been about 6 months since I did it and yes I do have a coolant filter on it. I ran the coolant filter for about 3 months before I did this to clean up the system.

It's a long story about why I had to do it, but let's just say it was not the reason most have had to flush their systems.

I just could not afford another oil cooler replacement, so I was willing to experiment with it, either that or park it.

If it where to plug again, I have all the material to do it again. I had gotten to the point before I did it the last time, I could have it apart in about 45 minutes, of course I do not have the back part of the fan shroud on mine.

I looked at the coolant system and found that the cooler is on a dedicated circuit from the water pump so I figured if I could recircualte fluid through the cooler it would have the same effect as running VC9 or other chemical through it at a reduced cost.
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:13 AM
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I like experimenting, I thought if it was possible to remove the top of the oil filter housing to get to the outlet? Just thinking out loud. I dont want to sound silly. I have a clogged oil cooler, I just haven't tore into it yet. I've just watched the vid.

Sent from my SCH-I500
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:38 AM
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No, to access the oil cooler look under the turbo from the passenger side and you will see an elliptical cap held on by two cap head screws.

That is the outlet port of the oil cooler.

One screw is pretty easy to get to, the other requires the long extension with the swivel on the end. A 1/4 drive is what you will need, and take your time. It has to line up pretty well. When you get it lined up you will know it other wise build the tool the guys are talking about here on the board.

Be sure to get a new "oring" to seal it back up with, incase your old one won't seal. I reused my old one with no problems, but had a new one standing by just in case. Cost 4 or 5 bucks. Don't remember the part number.

You live any where near San Antonio.

Last edited by SHOOTER22250; 07-16-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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