This forum ROCKs: Flushed Power Steering Yesterday - WOW

[skanj0]

Truck only has 68K miles, but seeing that I'm in the process of changing all of the other fluids to synthetics, I thought I would log onto the .org and look into it. A couple of quick searches here and I had the procedure, and the type and estimated amount of fluid needed.

A quick trip to the auto parts store and I had four quarts of Red Line D-4 ATF, and a 10' length of clear 3/8" ID tubing. Ran the tubing down the front of the truck, through the drivers side tow hook, and into a 5 gallon bucket that already had the oil from my transfer case oil change.

Done in 15 minutes, by myself. Fluid was pretty black, with a tinge of odor.

Man, what a difference it made in the breaking. Feels like I just put new breaks on her These trucks apparently love having fresh fluid in the hydroboost.

Didn't sense much of difference in the steering, but it's always been strong and smooth anyway.

After I finished mine I took my tubing and 5 gallon bucket across the street to my neighbors, and we did the same to his 06. He used Mercon V transmission & power steering fluid. His truck has 110K, and man was the fluid black and stinky. Half way through the process he could feel a difference in the steering. After finishing, we took a test drive and he darn near locked up the tires braking how he normally does. Another satisfied customer.

Just thought I would share my experience with others, and encourage others to do the same.

[WarChild]

I change mine out once a year.

[PGreenSVT]

Yep, brake fluid should be changed once a year also. It absorbs moisture very easily and looses it effectiveness as it does. Power steering, trans, transfer case, diff's I change between 30k and 50k depending on which it is.

Redline D-6 is the Mercon LV equivalent not the D-4. Just an FYI

[Mike Hickman]

Post up that link on the break fluid change. Thanks

[skanj0]

Originally Posted by PGreenSVT

Redline D-6 is the Mercon LV equivalent not the D-4. Just an FYI

Right D-6 is equivalent to Mercon LV. D-6 is going in the tranny sometime this week. Regarding the power steering, the Red Line website said to use D-4, as that is the equivalent to Mercon V, the ford specified fluid for the power steering. Is D-4 not right for the power steering?

[skanj0]

Originally Posted by Mike Hickman

Post up that link on the break fluid change. Thanks

Here you go. Just to be clear, this is for flushing the hydro boost side of the braking system - not the brake fluid side. The procedure shown in the link is for a 7.3L, but the process is the same - including the fitting location on the hydro boost.

Ford Super Duty Power Steering Flush | Superdutypsd.com

[PGreenSVT]

Yes D-4 is ok for the power steering. Just wanted to make sure that folks know that isn't the proper Redline ATF for the tranny as well. I have been wanting to switch over to the D-6 in my tranny but didn't have time and just did a full flush with LV so I'll have to wait another 30k. I want to try it because on paper it has better cold flow characteristics than LV or Amsoil's LV equivalent. I am thinking it would help with cold weather shift flare until warmed up. Are you in a cold winter environment? If so keep us posted on how it behaves when it gets real cold.

[skanj0]

Originally Posted by PGreenSVT

Yes D-4 is ok for the power steering. Just wanted to make sure that folks know that isn't the proper Redline ATF for the tranny as well. I have been wanting to switch over to the D-6 in my tranny but didn't have time and just did a full flush with LV so I'll have to wait another 30k. I want to try it because on paper it has better cold flow characteristics than LV or Amsoil's LV equivalent. I am thinking it would help with cold weather shift flare until warmed up. Are you in a cold winter environment? If so keep us posted on how it behaves when it gets real cold.

Ah, gotcha PGreenSVT. Thanks for the additional info. Not located in a real cold area (N. CA), which only gets as cold as 30f in the winter. Truck has 68K on it and this will be it's first tranny fluid change that I'm aware of (bought it 3 years ago as a Ford Certified Pre-owned with 42K miles on it and one previous owner). It's also going to get an 08 Job #2 pan and filter, and a new "toilet paper" filter.

Regarding LV, the other day I helped my neighbor change the ATF in his 06 powerstroke. Has 110K miles on the truck so not sure if this is the first trany fluid change or not. We changed the in-pan screen and re-filled with Mercon LV (didnt change the "toilet paper" filter because he had done so ~1,500 miles ago). Made a big difference in how the truck shifts. It's now super smooth. Almost feels like one of those 1970s Cadillacs . He even mentioned how much more smooth the shifter moves (assuming just the new fluid on the detent linkage).

[TruckNorris]

skanj0, how long did the tranny fluid change take? I need to replace my TFT sensor so I have to drop the pan as well. Never really done much work on a vehicle before, so I'm kind of hesitant to do it myself. Did you have to do anything special to the gasket to reuse it?

I've got the interior and exterior filters and all the fluid, just need a little more guidance on the process.

[skanj0]

Originally Posted by TruckNorris

skanj0, how long did the tranny fluid change take? I need to replace my TFT sensor so I have to drop the pan as well. Never really done much work on a vehicle before, so I'm kind of hesitant to do it myself. Did you have to do anything special to the gasket to reuse it?

I've got the interior and exterior filters and all the fluid, just need a little more guidance on the process.

It's super easy, especially on these trucks.

Here are the steps:

1) Drive truck to get trans up to operatirng temp (>165f).
2) Park truck
3) Slide a 5 gallon bucket under the transmission and remove the drain plug on the pan.
4) After fluid has drained, reinstall drain plug and tighten it down (dont over do it as you will strip the pan threads).
5) Get the 5 gallon bucket out of the way
6) Remove all of the tranny pan bolts. I used my Makita Impact Driver with a 3/8 drive socket adapter to remove the bolts in a quicker manner (Note: do not use the impact driver to reinstall the bolts. You will way over-tighten them). You will need a swivel socket or open end wrench for the 3 bolts at the rear of the pan which are blocked by the cross member.
7) After pans been removed, grab the internal filter, rotate slightly to break the seal, then pull downward to remove. Some more fluid will come out of the filter so be prepared to get a little oil on your arms.
8) Once the internal filter is removed from the trans, ensure the orange rubber o-ring came out with it. It usually doesnt, and you will need to use a dental pick or other tool to remove it from the transmission. You need to get it out of the trans, as the new filter will already have it's own o-ring installed on the filter.
9) Use a little trans fluid to lubricate the o-ring on the new filter (helps to seat it without tearing it).
10) Push the filter on and ensure it's in all the way. Center it in the middle of the trans bottom.
11) Clean the pan and prepare it for re-installation. Be sure to clean the metal dust/shavings from the magnet that encircles the drain plug.
12) Clean and inspect the pan gasket. Look for any signs of damage. Most likely it can be re-used, as it's designed to be.
13) Lay the gasket back over the pan and insert 4 bolts (one at each corner) to keep the gasket aligned on the pan.
14) Slide the pan under the truck
15) Raise the pan and align with the trans. You will need to start forward and then slide rearward to clear the cross member.
16) Start all bolts.
17) Tighten/torque all bolts. I use a 3/8 ratchet and obtain final tightness by gripping the ratchet by the head and setting the bolts firmly. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. I think the official torque is some where between 10 and 15 foot/pounds.
18) Double check drain plug tightness one last time.
19) Move to external trans filter
20) The filter housing can sometimes be stuck, and when you attempt to loosen it will seem like you are about to break the filter housing off of the truck. STOP before you do. Then get an impact gun (air, electric, or battery) and then try it with that. The hammering of the impact gun is ususally enough to instantly break it loose.
21) Remove the "toilet paper" filter and set aside.
22) Clean the filter housing
23) The replacement filter should come with a new o-ring. If so, remove the existing o-ring and install the new one. Be sure to apply some trans fluid to the new o-ring.
24) Install the new "toilet paper" filter into the filter housing.
25) Apply some anti-sieze to the threads of the housing so the next time it will remove without an impact gun.
26) Reinstall external filter housing with new filter inside.
27) Dont over tighten
28) Fill trans with 8 quarts of MERCON LV (or equivallent) and then start the truck.
29) Once running, quickly check underneath for any obvious leaks. Likely wont be any.
30) If leaks, shut down truck and repair.
31) If no leaks, get in truck, and with engine running, parking brake set, and foot on break, slowly shift the trans through all the gears. ALL THE GEARS.
32) Then, with engine still running and truck parked on a fairly level surface, check the trans fluid with the engine running and the trans in Park.
33) Fluid should be in the middle of either the cold or hot ranges depending upon the respective trans temperature. DO NOT OVERFILL.
34) Put tools away, and enjoy another beer!