Egr delete up pipe questions

[at0075]

Ok so i have been working on my truck all week. Hope to finish this weekend. I have removed the turbo and intake manifold and working on removing the egr now. I ordered my egr delete from custom diesel as they are a local to me and located less than an hour away so I wanted to support the local shop. BUT their instruction suck. The pics are black and white and you can't see anything. I'm stuck on how to get the old up pip out. It says that I need to remove y pipe but I don't understand why? Can I just crawl under loosen the two bolt at the exhaust manifold and up pipe then loosen the two bolts at the top were it meets the y pipe. I'm assuming I need to remove the up pipe first before I can slide the cooler back towards the cab to get the hose off. I'm sure it a much talked about topic but I'm in a crunch and need help. Im no mechanic but I do applaud myself for getting this far with enough confidence to get it back together. My goal for today was to remove manifold, delete egr, instal new cooler and maybe get manifold back on. After that do a little bench work installing my blue spring and cleaning parts! Thanks in advance and I will be posting some pics when I get some down time

[texaslimeaide]

Yeah. I used custom diesel's kit myself. I didn't have to take the y pipe off. Just do what your thinking. You might need an extra set of hands to get it out BC it comes out the top looker through the opening where the turbo was before you took it out.

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[texaslimeaide]

Ohhh. Fyi that lil blue silicone hose on the egr cooler has metal retaining rings in it. You have to twist it like 90° if I remember right to get the tabs to release from the nipples on the egr cooler and the supply nipple from the oil cooler housing.

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[jimmyv13]

You can get at all 4 bolts from underneath...air ratchet, a few extensions, a universal or two, socket and a wrench on the head of the bolt in case it starts to spin. I was able to get at one of the bolts through the fender.

[at0075]

Thanks a ton. The custom diesel kit seems to be of good quality. They were running a summer special and got it for around 150 shipping included

[texaslimeaide]

What Jimmy said about the bolts :-)

I have had my kit on for 10k miles and love it. Watch for welding slag on the inside of the J tube. Mine had a small amount of mini bb slag bits left in it. I used water, toothbrush, and compressed air to get them out. If there was one stuck I took bailing wire and chipped it off. You DON'T want ANY of those in the engine period.
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[jimmyv13]

PB Blaster was my friend when breaking the nuts loose. Also, you may want to get the very thin copper gasket that goes between the up pipe and y pipe, PN: 3C3Z-6N640-AA. Mine came apart in 2 pieces and did not seal correctly when I put it all back together. It's a 2 piece gasket that's spot welded together, the welds must've given way on my truck after 215K miles.

[texaslimeaide]

Jimmy: I think I would give out after 215k too lmao.

My Custom Diesel kit came with that gasket. They have a few kit options and I think one of them you face to reuse that factory one.
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[at0075]

Ok update guys. My kits did indeed come with the new 2 part gasket. After a lot of f bombs and screaming I said screw it and unbolted the y pipe. Took the pass fender out and easly accessed the bottom up pipe bolts. Couldnt get the back top up pipe bolts Hince why I took it all out in one unit. Popped the old pipe off and bolted on the new. Dropped in as a unit like a charm. Bolted it all back up and I'm done with the pipes. THANK GOD. Ok on to the oil cooler. I drained my oil and didn't expect much to come when I lifted the cooler. YEAH I thought wrong I bet a quart of oil shot down the the valley. Pissed me off lol. So I cleaned it the best I could and left some rags on it to soak up what's left. I don't have anything to bail out the oil above the hpop so I'm going to somewhere and get something to suck it out. I had to stop for the day. My back can't handle anymore