Time for injectors on the Outlaw!

[ihv800]

Well, I had posted a long write-up in the motor problems if anyone cares to read fully what my symptoms were. Spark notes version; it ran fine all day, later that evening it developed a miss that rapidly turned worse and it was smoking more than normal and kept throwing a cylinder 5 code.

Well, today I tore into it. Injector #5 is pulled out and the pictures show what was going on. Cracked tip.

I understand this usually happens due to low fuel pressure? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so I don't know what was going on there. I have the fuel spring mod, but apparently it was too late?

Someone with more experience than me can hopefully help me out here.... Until now, the pickup ran great except for some troublesome cold starts I never could pinpoint. Should I grab one stock injector and be on my way; or with the condition of this injector should I do all eight? I don't need crazy injectors, but have heard great things about Warren Stock+ and the price is appealing. What other reputable places have stock sticks, or slightly above stock?

Here's the pics of the carnage!



If anyone wants some more pics while I have stuff apart let me know!

[white59rt]

For what its worth - when/if my truck needs injectors I am going to get some of warren's 155/30s as I am in the same boat, dont want any crazy injectors but why not upgrade a bit while they are out. And I have read nothing but GREAT things from warren's products, they will be getting my business eventually

My .02

Todd

[colo_dually]

At a minimum, I would replace that bank with OEM units. If you feel like you may have damaged all of them due to low fuel pressure, replace all 8. (Which is the preferred method, after correcting your low pressure condition.)

If you go to aftermarket injectors, you're bound to all 8 anyway. Its simply a matter of how big you want to go and how much power you want to make. I have a thread over in 6.0L Performance that may help you out.

[ihv800]

Thanks for the reply colo_dually (always good to see another Colorado member!). I read through your write-up in the performance section, excellent info, thanks a lot for compiling that in one place!!

I can only assume fuel pressure is what did this, but I don't know for sure. The pickup has run out of fuel one time I know of, but that has been a while ago.

My thoughts were, if it's best to do all 8 I figure why not upgrade a touch while I've got to do it anyway. If there wasn't a worry to change the 1 with a stock replacement I would go that route. From your post, seems I will likely be doing 8. Thanks for the comments!

[PGreenSVT]

Have you checked your FICM and your batteries for your cold start issue?

[colo_dually]

First step is to identify and correct the cause of this failure. If you don't have the gauge, you can't say for sure its pressure. Might be the FICM, or something else. You don't want to put new injectors in there, only to have them go bad. Particularly if you drop the money on aftermarkets.

[ihv800]

Batteries and FICM both test good. I constantly monitor the FICM on the CTS and have never seen anything below 48v. I have even tested with a multi-meter from prestart through starting, to started in the dead of winter (below 30 temps) and it never dropped below 48. When all this happened I checked the water separator and nothing but clean fuel came out. I've been around the pickup since it was new, but have only owned since January. The fuel spring mod was done very recently as a preventative measure. This is why my gut says is was fuel pressure....

[colo_dually]

Sounds like pressure may be the cause then, you have two options, fuel pressure sender for the CTS you have, or branch out and put on a traditional gauge. Wouldn't be without one on these trucks.

[ihv800]

I had been holding off the fuel PSI kit for the CTS because of the cost... I just couldn't figure why the pieces cost so much. Regardless, because of this I'm for sure going to do that along with whatever injectors.

[colo_dually]

When you do it, you need the kit for the CTS, and you have two options of plumbing it:

1) A connection off the test fitting.
2) A billet cap, with a hose running off it.

Option 1 is the cheaper method to connect it, make sure you use a hose off either and keep the sender from all the vibrations and heat.