Give it to me straight...6.0 Bulletproofing

[00SVTStrike]

Ok guys... currently a very happy 7.3 Owner... I LOVE the sound of a 6.0, LOVE the power of a 6.0 LOVE the kick in the *** out of the hole of a 6.0.... BUT Still very apprehensive to take the leap and buy one. I know all the basic things that need to be done to make these 6.0 trucks good and reliable but how much does it actually cost to take a 6.0 that is stock otherwise, and make it something that will run trouble free in all condition for years and miles to come?....
And more importantly how much of it can be done at home without a lift? (studs)

Im a very mechanical guy who has built many many cars and trucks as well as worked as a tech before. Even with all the background im still very cautious of these 6.0s....

Put a $$ amount to this for me will ya? Thanks...

[Young-SC-Owner]

It can all be done at home....Just take your time.

If you do all the work yourself. >3500 To make it solid

[20046.0]

Originally Posted by Young-SC-Owner

It can all be done at home....Just take your time.

If you do all the work yourself. >3500 To make it solid

Yes and no. The heads will need a machine shop to go over them.

Right around 5-7k If you get a shop to do it.

[Young-SC-Owner]

Here is the thing with that, If he gets those heads off before its ever gotten hot, or had any issues....I wouldnt send them off, THATS just ME.

Its VERY Doable for 3500 bucks. A hair over 1000 shipped parts for a new Oil cooler/EGR Delete. about 500 for Studs and 200-250 for HG's all being on the high side. And can all be done in a long weekend for the shadetree mechanic

[20046.0]

Originally Posted by Young-SC-Owner

Here is the thing with that, If he gets those heads off before its ever gotten hot, or had any issues....I wouldnt send them off, THATS just ME.

Its VERY Doable for 3500 bucks. A hair over 1000 shipped parts for a new Oil cooler/EGR Delete. about 500 for Studs and 200-250 for HG's all being on the high side. And can all be done in a long weekend for the shadetree mechanic

I've heard too many stories of people with no previous HG issues, installing studs without having heads checked. Then down the road they fail because of a imperfect head. Thats just me.

I would add an edge insight, sct tuner, blue fpr spring, coolant filter, stc fitting, stand pipes, turbo drain lines to that list. Also flush the ford gold coolant and throw in some elc.

From the sticky:

**And now we get to the cost of this whole package:
For what I refer to as the minimum every driver needs to do:
Edge Insight CS w/ EGT Probe ~440
Coolant Filter ~ $140
STC HPOP update and screen~$100 ('05-'07)
Replaced Turbo Lines ~ $140 - 250 (Depending on year)
Solution to EGR Cooler ~$350 (delete or Upgrade)
Intake and EGR Gaskets ~$140
Switch to ELC ~ $140
Rebuild of the Oil Cooler ~$220
Parts ~ $1320 Labor for a Oil Cooler rebuild is around 8 hrs (example $85 hr) ~$680
This portion of the job can be handled by the DIY mechanic with the right resources.

If you are talking full bullet proofing, without the Remote Oil Cooler:
ARP Studs ~$500
Ford OEM Gaskets ~$250
Intake Gaskets ~$140
Fuel Pump Regulator Upgrade ~$60
Banjo Bolts ~$14
Total Parts ~$2284 Labor on the Headstud job is around 30-38 Hrs (same rate $85 an hr) ~$3230. Plus the cost for the machinist to check and flatten the heads, replacement heads run around $1500 a piece.

[Young-SC-Owner]

Originally Posted by 20046.0

I've heard too many stories of people with no previous HG issues, installing studs without having heads checked. Then down the road they fail because of a imperfect head. Thats just me.

I would add an edge insight, sct tuner, blue fpr spring, coolant filter, stc fitting, stand pipes, turbo drain lines to that list. Also flush the ford gold coolant and throw in some elc.

From the sticky:

**And now we get to the cost of this whole package:
For what I refer to as the minimum every driver needs to do:
Edge Insight CS w/ EGT Probe ~440
Coolant Filter ~ $140
STC HPOP update and screen~$100 ('05-'07)
Replaced Turbo Lines ~ $140 - 250 (Depending on year)
Solution to EGR Cooler ~$350 (delete or Upgrade)
Intake and EGR Gaskets ~$140
Switch to ELC ~ $140
Rebuild of the Oil Cooler ~$220
Parts ~ $1320 Labor for a Oil Cooler rebuild is around 8 hrs (example $85 hr) ~$680
This portion of the job can be handled by the DIY mechanic with the right resources.

If you are talking full bullet proofing, without the Remote Oil Cooler:
ARP Studs ~$500
Ford OEM Gaskets ~$250
Intake Gaskets ~$140
Fuel Pump Regulator Upgrade ~$60
Banjo Bolts ~$14
Total Parts ~$2284 Labor on the Headstud job is around 30-38 Hrs (same rate $85 an hr) ~$3230. Plus the cost for the machinist to check and flatten the heads, replacement heads run around $1500 a piece.

If he wants a reliable workhorse. that 1000 bucks includes the EGR Delete, NEW oil cooler, Updated STC fitting, and VC Orings. 18 bucks for 6.4 banjos, a few bucks for the blue spring. 100~ coolant. Bam, back together. without studs, or add 700~ to do gaskets and studs. a few more hours to the time..All very Doable, and he wanted to do the work himself...Shop labor isnt an item here

[20046.0]

Originally Posted by Young-SC-Owner

If he wants a reliable workhorse. that 1000 bucks includes the EGR Delete, NEW oil cooler, Updated STC fitting, and VC Orings. 18 bucks for 6.4 banjos, a few bucks for the blue spring. 100~ coolant. Bam, back together. without studs, or add 700~ to do gaskets and studs. a few more hours to the time..All very Doable, and he wanted to do the work himself...Shop labor isnt an item here

Well I posted what I thought and I still stick with what I've learned.
If he wants to do it all himself thats fine, it's just that he might have to tear it down again.

Those risks I do not take, I've said my .02

[colo_dually]

Read this, and let me know if you have any further questions:
Write Up: Bullet-Proofing the 6.0L PSD.

There have been several members who have done this at home, with the cab on. It makes it harder, but not impossible.

[bismic]

colo_dually has a very nice thread in the link he provided.

I am not quite so against the Ford Gold coolant, but ELC is less prone to issues, so "go for it".

Some bulletproofing decisions will depend on the model year of your engine. Personally I like the 06 and above due to the gact that they have some decent Ford installed improvements in some of the components. I really like the 05 and up suspensions!

The major issues w/ the 05-07 model years will be the HPOP system (STC fitting, dummy plugs and standpipes) and a weaker EGR cooler than the earlier model years. The early year HPOP's were prone to failure, so Ford installed a better HPOP in the later years, but messed up w/ the discharge fitting!

Of course you will always get into the head stud debate and the coolant debate (which is an oil cooler debate also). Bottom line is that you do NOT need a BPD external oil cooler. The stock oil cooler is fine w/ proper coolant and proper coolant maintenance.

There were issues w/ head deck flatness early on. IMO it is wise to have the heads checked (and possibly shaved to get them flat), but you need to have a quality shop do the work. Just be sure to use OEM head gaskets w/ those ARP studs!

I am still seeing some folks get GREAT deals - like $20k for a 65k mile 2006 or 2007 truck. This is the way to go IMO - especially if you have $3.5k to $4k for bulletproofing (you really shouldn't need more than that unless you just want to go crazy).

Protect your investment w/ gauges though. You can catch problems early that way. Also, make sure that fuel pressure is one thing you watch (requires adding a sending unit also). That will help you get the most life out of your injectors (that and using good fuel, OEM filters, proper filter change intervals, etc). personally, I like a good cetane boost every tank full. Adds a few dollars to the fill-up. but not a big deal.

As long as I am on filters, use OEM oil filters and a 5k mile oil change interval. I like a 5W40 synthetic oil. Also, the external tranny filter needs changing AT LEAST every 30k miles. The tranny fluid should be changed on that interval also. The Torqhift transmission is a fantastic transmission - you just need to do the preventative maintenance.

I am now a firm believer in flushing the brake fluid every 50k miles. The fluid absorbs water and can cause rust/etc in a caliper.

On the suspension end of things, the ball joints can be a weak link. Inspect those when you look at a potential truck to purchase.

[00SVTStrike]

Thanks for the replies guys... I would definitely do all the work myself. I have built custom turbo F-Bodies etc. I am no stranger to digging in deep, as long as its physcially possible to do it at home I will. So if I can do studs at home cab on, I will.

Sounds like the general recomendation is to have the heads checked when off? Or actually have them taken down a bit? O-Rings?...

Doesnt actually sound like the parts cost is all that bad... its having other people do the installs?