Dicad egr delete leak?? - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #11  
Old 05-10-2012, 08:53 PM
sae sae is offline
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My EGR delete leaked there also. Different mfg. but still leaked. The o-ring was to small, thin. I just went to hardware store and got a 'thicker' o-ring and changed it out. I was able to just take out new tube and replace o-ring and put back in without taking everything else apart. Yes a little tricky to reinstall the 'plate' that holds the line in but not hard.

Last edited by sae; 05-14-2012 at 05:47 PM. Reason: clarity
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  #12  
Old 05-13-2012, 02:14 PM
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Does anyone know the o-ring size off hand?


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  #13  
Old 05-14-2012, 05:45 PM
sae sae is offline
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I could be totally wrong. But if I remember correctly, I used 3/4" inside and 1" outside. That put it 1/8" thick. If I remember right the old o-ring was 3/32" thick. Not a major difference but very notiable when I reinstalled it with new o-ring.

What I did was measure the tube where the o-ring goes and also measured the old o-ring (inside, outside, and thickness). Got one that fit tube snug and a little thicker then old o-ring. The new o-ring also filled the slot for o-ring on tube where the old one had some gap.

I hope this helps.-- Do not forget to drain coolant or you will have a mess.

Last edited by sae; 05-14-2012 at 05:49 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-17-2012, 03:54 PM
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I think my o ring needs replaced,sae,do you remember what kind of fasteners hold the plate onto the intake? i have turbo removed,now,but not wanting to remove intake.
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  #15  
Old 11-17-2012, 04:02 PM
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I did a dicad on a friends truck and it leaked at the o-ring. Dropped the tube out and used the old o-ring from the EGR cooler and it worked fine. Didn't have to take the manifold out to fix it.
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  #16  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:26 AM
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tks. PGreen,gotta get her back together today,don't have an oem cooler,have to be an auto parts or lowes o ring.
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  #17  
Old 11-18-2012, 06:10 AM
sae sae is offline
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I sent a private msg. to pistol.... He asked how I replaced the o-ring without removing intake. I decided others might read this thread and decided to put what I said on here.

It's been a few moths so I hope I do not steer you wrong. But there is only one bolt holding it in. the bolt is actually goes though the intake and screws into a plate that holds the pipe in, no nut. There is room for you to reach in there and hold the plate while unscrewing the bolt on top of intake. After removing the bolt pull out the plate (If I remember right I did drop mine and was tricky to get out but not hard). After plate is removed you can just push down on trube and it comes out of bottom of intake. You should have the other end (rubber line) already loose. Just pull aft, toward firewall.
I DID NOT EVEN TAKE THE TURBO OUT.

Now to install. It is of course harder then removing. The tricky part of course is getting the plate inplace to screw it in place. Once you get the pipe into place install the rubber line end first. Then you will need to push up the pipe up into the bottom of intake. Now need to put plate into place and screw bolt into it. I might of use something to help hold it into place but do not remember. If I did it was something like a nail puller/crowbar. Not for heave prying but just to hold it into place. Now just tighten it down.

As of the new o-ring I got mine from Menards (hardware store). I just got one in plumbing dept. It was worked great. I got about 8,000 mi on it.
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2012, 06:49 AM
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Mine leaked at the same place, I ordered a one piecie kit from custom diesel to fix the problem.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:18 AM
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I apparently have my leak stopped, but being i had mine installed by someone else, didnt think much of it. Now that i tore it down myself, i agree a 1 pc. J tube is in order. I'll have one on the shelf for the next teardown.
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