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Old 04-24-2012, 08:06 AM
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New Member needs guideance

Long time reader/lurker, first post.

I have been using the search functions and reading all of the 6.0 forums that I can find. I would genuinely appreciate some guidance from those in the know.

I have a 2005 F350 CC, DRW 4x4, 6.0, Auto, ordered new. It has 105k miles on it. At 82k miles the bed plate seal and head gaskets were replaced under the powertrain warranty. At that time I didn't know that I could provide ARP studs for installation, so they are factory type head bolts/studs.

I keep stuff for a long time and try to maintain it very well. With the price of new trucks I would like to maximize the life of this one. I recently installed an Edge Insight to I could see where my numbers are. Unfortunately my delta's are at the 15 degree mark, so I know that there is some EGR and oil cooler work in the near future.

I ordered and received a Sinister coolant bypass kit and have it on hand. I have also ordered an Amsoil oil bypass kit that should be here shortly. Right now my plan is to install the coolant filter and run it for 1k miles or so and cut it open and see how it looks. Once I'm getting cleaner filters I plan to do a complete flush with distilled water, Restore and then Restore Plus, and then run the filter a little longer to make sure that my system is clean prior to addressing the EGR and oil cooler. Is that an OK way to proceed, or would I be better off doing something differently?

With regard to the EGR, I can see that there are advantages to doing a delte. We don't have emissions testing where I live, and if it ever happens I am okay installing something like the Bulletproof EGR. My concern with doing a delete is that I have read that some trucks will throw a code, and that it does more than just turn the wrench light on, that it actually causes the truck to default to something and run differently, and that it's not desirable. Is that true? If so, about what does it cost to get a programmer and a tune that addresses the EGR code?

I also have concerns about putting a new oil cooler on because I've read a lot of threads from folks that have done that and their delta's didn't improve. I am hoping that a good flush will help eliminate or lessen that possibility?

The installer I am going to use said that if I do head studs at the same time as the EGR and oil cooler that it saves quite a few hours of labor on the EGR and cooler by having the cab off. He has suggested that I could do ARP studs at the same time. I have read some posts that say that the EGR is the problem that causes head stud problems and that once it's addressed they aren't as much of a concern. Is that true? If my factory type studs will fail in 80k again I would rather address the issue now and have the ARP studs put in if necessary with an EGR delete.

Any and all advice and guidance would be really appreciated. I know there are a lot of folks here that know a lot about these motors.
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  #2  
Old 04-24-2012, 10:57 AM
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Drive it, tow hard, keep everything clean, watch your temps.

All good.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:29 PM
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Anyone? I want to proceed with the EGR and oil cooler in the manner that makes the most sense.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:43 PM
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First of all...



Second where do you live more specifically if you dont mind? I'm in Spokane and there are a few guys here that could give you pointers (including myself as I have done Egr delete and oil cooler myself in my driveway)


does your truck puke right now?
what is your coolant temp when measuring the deltas and seeing 15* apart?
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drysideshooter View Post
Long time reader/lurker, first post.

I have been using the search functions and reading all of the 6.0 forums that I can find. I would genuinely appreciate some guidance from those in the know.

I have a 2005 F350 CC, DRW 4x4, 6.0, Auto, ordered new. It has 105k miles on it. At 82k miles the bed plate seal and head gaskets were replaced under the powertrain warranty. At that time I didn't know that I could provide ARP studs for installation, so they are factory type head bolts/studs.

I keep stuff for a long time and try to maintain it very well. With the price of new trucks I would like to maximize the life of this one. I recently installed an Edge Insight to I could see where my numbers are. Unfortunately my delta's are at the 15 degree mark, so I know that there is some EGR and oil cooler work in the near future.

I ordered and received a Sinister coolant bypass kit and have it on hand. I have also ordered an Amsoil oil bypass kit that should be here shortly. Right now my plan is to install the coolant filter and run it for 1k miles or so and cut it open and see how it looks. Once I'm getting cleaner filters I plan to do a complete flush with distilled water, Restore and then Restore Plus, and then run the filter a little longer to make sure that my system is clean prior to addressing the EGR and oil cooler. Is that an OK way to proceed, or would I be better off doing something differently?

With regard to the EGR, I can see that there are advantages to doing a delte. We don't have emissions testing where I live, and if it ever happens I am okay installing something like the Bulletproof EGR. My concern with doing a delete is that I have read that some trucks will throw a code, and that it does more than just turn the wrench light on, that it actually causes the truck to default to something and run differently, and that it's not desirable. Is that true? If so, about what does it cost to get a programmer and a tune that addresses the EGR code?

I also have concerns about putting a new oil cooler on because I've read a lot of threads from folks that have done that and their delta's didn't improve. I am hoping that a good flush will help eliminate or lessen that possibility?

The installer I am going to use said that if I do head studs at the same time as the EGR and oil cooler that it saves quite a few hours of labor on the EGR and cooler by having the cab off. He has suggested that I could do ARP studs at the same time. I have read some posts that say that the EGR is the problem that causes head stud problems and that once it's addressed they aren't as much of a concern. Is that true? If my factory type studs will fail in 80k again I would rather address the issue now and have the ARP studs put in if necessary with an EGR delete.

Any and all advice and guidance would be really appreciated. I know there are a lot of folks here that know a lot about these motors.



Above in red is what I would do most likely



SCT with custom tunes around 400-500 bucks



If you have the money to buy arp's ($450) and oem gaskets ($300) and pay some more for labor (.)

It IS awfully close in there and would be a NICE thing to do...But it is most likely NOT needed at this time and wont be needed for a year or two...or more..OR maybe never
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Six0~Stroker View Post
First of all...



Second where do you live more specifically if you dont mind? I'm in Spokane and there are a few guys here that could give you pointers (including myself as I have done Egr delete and oil cooler myself in my driveway)


does your truck puke right now?
what is your coolant temp when measuring the deltas and seeing 15* apart?
I am in tricities. I would prefer to have someone else do the work. Could you recommend anyone in eastern WA? I have talked with a fellow in western OR that came highly recommended, and powerstrokes are all he does. If he does an EGR delete, oil cooler and ARP studs he would like to have my truck for a week, which isn't a problem, but if possible it would be nice to find someone closer to home.

My truck is not puking any coolant.

My coolant was 202 at the max. Driving around town the last few days, 45 and below it doesn't go above 192.

Any thank you very sincerely for the help.

Last edited by drysideshooter; 04-24-2012 at 03:11 PM.
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2012, 03:13 PM
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There is a guy here in Spokane that is a PRO with the 6ohs !!!

You can ask anyone with 6ohs or any PSD actually in the Spokane Area and they will send you there


If you want to look into it I can find his contact info for you?




Look through my questions and let us know the status of the engine for us to be able to help you out more
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:18 PM
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Thanks, contact info would be awesome.

My truck isn't puking any coolant. The highest I've seen my ECT has been 202 when my EOT was 217. That was pulling a good grade with my foot in it. There have been times when my delta's have been 16-17, but not when my ECT was above 200.

I just got back from doing some mostly town driving. It's 80 deg here today. Driving mostly 45 and under my ECT stays between 188-192 and my EOT around 198-200.

My truck uses zero oil between oil changes. Running Rotella T6. I have never had to add coolant. When the dealer caught the headgaskets they were just barely weeping, and they actually didn't notice them until they had the motor out to do the bed plate seal. I wish I would have known then that they would have put ARP studs in if I paid for them.

I don't mind spending the money to have someone good do the work to delete the EGR and a new oil cooler, I just want to make sure I take the right steps to get my system flushed out so that I don't end up clogging the new one.
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2012, 04:34 PM
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Im on my phone so I can't post a link but ill get you the info soon...

You should check into the ccr. The local wa / or chapter!

Go to forums, go down all the way and look for "The Cascade Coal Rollers"




my dieselholic phone sent this!
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