Last minute ?? on Oil Cooler/EGR Delete R&R

[Face Down]

Finally ready to replace my oil cooler and install a EGR Delete kit. I changed my coolant on 1/1/2012 to ELC and have around 2500 miles on my coolant filter. Over the last few months I have been collecting all the needed parts and whatever new tools I might have an excuse to buy (digital torque wrench, set of GearWrench wrenches). Last piece of the puzzle came today, an SCT X3 loaded with some Quick Tricks Tunes!

So Monday or Tuesday next week is the day I tear into her...which works out perfectly as I am due for a oil change in 100 miles. I have made myself kinda a check list or outline from start to finish from all the great info I have gotten here and around the web. I do have a couple of questions that need some clarification.

1. When I install the new up-pipe should I use some type of sealer on that joint to the exhaust manifold? If so which product?

2. I think I have read it is a good idea to replace the bolts from the exhaust manifolds to the up-pipes. True? If so what is the hardware size and do any of you have the Ford P/N's or can I just use some hardware from Lowes/Home Depot?

3. FICM. I have seen where some remove this and some don't during this whole process. What is the advantage of removing it?

4. Start up!! I am sure this is the part that will pucker me the most. Here is what I have for a outline.
*Recheck everything and my notes
*Fluid fill of oil and coolant
*Pull FICM Relay/Fuse and crank until you see pressure on dash gauge, replace. (Where is this relay/fuse located???)
*Cycle Fuel Pump
*Say a quick prayer and crank her up.

As I am mechanical but not a mechanic I am pretty nervous but excited at the same time with this undertaking. There was no way I could have attempted this without this forum so thanks to all and wish me luck!!

[colinmitchell111]

The up pipe to exhaust manifold bolts I could not find at any hardware store. They are some fine thread metric deal, from what I got from all the hardware stores they said go to the dealer to get them. I just reused mine because I didn't have time to go to the dealer but I'm sure they can't be too expensive.

[PGreenSVT]

No need to remove the FICM for this job and no need to replace the up-pipe bolts if they are in good shape.

[Face Down]

Thanks for the answers guys. I went through the EGR delete kit from Custom Diesel and they actually include the bolts from the exhaust manifold to the new Up-Pipe.

Anyone on the FICM Relay/Fuse location??

One more stupid question. Should I drain all the oil before starting this job or is just releasing the filter drain enough?? I need to change my oil anyway but I know going down to the oil cooler can put some air in the system...so which way do I go?

Lastly I have seen two trains of thought on re-fill. One is to fill the HPOP reservoir before re-installing he oil cooler, the other is to fill from the filler housing so it gets into the oil cooler and reservoir. Thoughts?

[d_fortier]

Originally Posted by Face Down

Lastly I have seen two trains of thought on re-fill. One is to fill the HPOP reservoir before re-installing he oil cooler, the other is to fill from the filler housing so it gets into the oil cooler and reservoir. Thoughts?

Havent done it myself, but ive read about it and watched a more than a few youtube videos as i may be doing the same soon. Most popular seems to be through the filter housing. Seems logical to me, less chance of a mess and you dont have to worry about assembling ontop of oiled up parts

[Monte2low]

I just did my cooler and delete yesterday. I didn't drain the oil just release the cap. It made a small mess but was manageable (just keep some rags on hand). I filled the oil through the filter housing before start up and it was fine. When I started it I didn't undo any relays or fuses, I just cycled the key 4 times before cranking and it hit right off with no stuttering or cel lights. I used the custom diesel kit and it was real nice. Good luck and have fun.


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