Hopefully not to late.... syn oil conversion

[nordstrom]

I have a 2006 F350 with 49000 miles. Have always run standard DELO or Rotella in it....until today. Switched to Rotella 5x40 synthetic. Was doing some reading tonight and heard some horror stories of the new oil breaking loose deposits and creating havoc on the motor and components. Also never knew how important it was to use motorcraft oil filters. The oil change place just used a paper filter. Is it possible to open the canister and replace it with out draining all the oil. Also they put in 15qts and i heard some say this is to much. I live in western WA so temps dont get too cold in the winter usally the lowest is mid 20s but not very often. I really only use the truck for heavy towing in temps up to mid 90s and pulling several mountain passes. Any advice is appreciated if i made the right decision.

2006 F350 Lariat CC SRW 4x4
6.0 liter
Edge Evolution
S & B Air intake
Catalytic Conv. Deleted


Thanks

[Heathrm]

I would not leave a non-ford oil filter on my truck. I also would not want to waste $100 worth of oil. I have heard of the non-ford filters causing more problems than good.

Edited to correct drunk posting. This is what happens when you confuse vehicles and forums that you post on!!!!

[STROKED_NY_023]

Originally Posted by Heathrm

I would not leave a non-ford oil filter on my truck.

Ford doesn't make thier own filters so why would that matter? Thier filters are made by Purolator...

IMO the Donaldson ELF7405 is the best filter out ther for a Powerstroke. Superior filter qualities and it adds almost 1.5 quarts of capacity.

The OP, you will be fine, dont drain your oil. I have converted all 3 of my PSD's to Rotella T6 and have never had an issue. On the matter of capacity check your owners manual, or call Ford. I have always run with the rule that over filling is not good, but I have never had any solid evidence that say a 1/2 quart will hurt anything.


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[drunk on diesel]

Originally Posted by STROKED_NY_023

Ford doesn't make thier own filters so why would that matter? Thier filters are made by Purolator...

They're made by RACOR

[Lilpooh]

Originally Posted by Heathrm

I would not leave a non-ford oil filter on my truck. I also would not want to waste $100 worth of oil. The cheapest way out is to go buy a new oil container, that will hold 15 qts., drain/filter the oil going into the container. Pour it back in and rig something up to refilter it going back in. You might feel comfortable just pouring it back in also. This is not the best scenario, but one that would work. I have heard of the non-ford filters causing more problems than good.

No need to drain the oil to put in a oil filter. Inside the oil filter housing, on the bottom is a anti-drain valve/poppet. When the filter is in place, the filter applies pressure to the valve/poppet to stop oil from draining the oil filter housing.


When you loosen the oil filter cap all the way, the filter rises away from the valve/poppet and the oil drains back into the oil pan. So all he needs to do is loosen the cap/filter, wait about 2-3minutes for oil to drain, then pull out the cap/filter and replace with new filter.

[jesilvas]

Originally Posted by STROKED_NY_023

Ford doesn't make thier own filters so why would that matter? Thier filters are made by Purolator...

IMO the Donaldson ELF7405 is the best filter out ther for a Powerstroke. Superior filter qualities and it adds almost 1.5 quarts of capacity.

Racor does and it's also a 6.0 :

[STROKED_NY_023]

Originally Posted by jesilvas

Racor does and it's also a 6.0 :

Ok fine they are now made by Rancor...

I know its a 6.0, I was using that filter as an example. Donaldson makes a filter for 6.0 as well. You know what my point was...


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[Banshee365]

Woah, this thread is full of slightly, well moslty off info.

Nordstrom, as mentioned above: just unscrew the housing cap, let the oil drain into the pan, replace that pos filter, screw the lid back down just slightly snug (do not overtighten or you could crack the plastic cap). When you start the engine it will prime the filter housing back up and you're good to go. Who know's, maybe the filter that's in there has already let the oil drain into the pan because is too short. Be careful of the fact that the pos filter they put in may have required a different cap (like napa's 6.0 filter does) so make sure you have the stock cap.

Ford's spin on filters are made by purolator, like the FL-820S that is so popular. They may make the spin on for the 7.3 as well. They have absolutely nothing to do with the 6.0 cartridge filter. The oil and fuel filters are made by Racor. Your options for the correct filter are Motorcraft from the dealer, Racor from an International truck parts counter, and Motorcraft or Fram from Wal-mart. Fram didn't put any of themselves into the 6.0 filter and instead throw Racor filters in their boxes and charge like $.80 less than the motorcraft box. It is the exact same filter and made by Racor.

[Term3]

I puzzled here. Wondering about the amount of oil used? Just check the dipstick.

As for synthetic breaking loose deposits, the detergent additive package is the same as any other oil with the exception of the break-in oil which has a larger detergent additive package for obvious reasons. The present oil additive packages don't build up sludge like the old oils did.

[nordstrom]

Thanks for making me feel better about my decision. Now that i am running Syn oil what are the maximum safe EOT i should not exceed. As stated i often pull heavy loads over the mountains and always tried never to exceed 230 but have seen post on this site that say 230 is no big deal running syn oil. I have the PBD EGR cooler and soon will have the PPD oil cooler conv kit (hopefully by the end of the summer) which i know will help but in the mean time what temps are ok to reach for short and long periods of time.