ARP or H11? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-10-2012, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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ARP or H11?

Does it really make any difference at all?

"the C4 6.0" 2004 F350 srw lariat CC



ARP's, Liberator fire ringed heads, EGR delete, Brute Force CAI, 6.4 banjos, blue spring, cfm+, Livewire TS custom tune, 5"turbo back with 4" down pipe. Cowel Hood. Lifted on 35's. Suncoast tranny. Newly added 05 grill and harley headlights.
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-10-2012, 05:36 PM
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I would like to know the same thing. I know H11's can be reused over and over. What about ARP's?

07' CC/SB 4x4 Lariat w/GDS Fuel Spring, Edge Evolution, MBRP 4" Straight Exhaust (enroute), Banks Intake and 20" Dick Cepek DC-2's w/Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-10-2012, 05:41 PM
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I was told as long as ARP's arent over torqued in the first install then they can be reused?


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post #4 of 9 Old 04-10-2012, 07:46 PM
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Yup, I think the H11 may have a higher tensile strength, but I am not sure.

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post #5 of 9 Old 04-11-2012, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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I'm going to do a little research before I buy one or the other

"the C4 6.0" 2004 F350 srw lariat CC



ARP's, Liberator fire ringed heads, EGR delete, Brute Force CAI, 6.4 banjos, blue spring, cfm+, Livewire TS custom tune, 5"turbo back with 4" down pipe. Cowel Hood. Lifted on 35's. Suncoast tranny. Newly added 05 grill and harley headlights.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-11-2012, 11:14 AM
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Do a search on this. There are tons of threads all over the internet. From what I've read, the ARP's are fine unless you're building some 50+ PSI drag truck. The block will give before the studs do either way.

I'd save the money and get the ARP's and make sure they're installed correctly.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-11-2012, 01:44 PM
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The block will break before you stretch (properly installed) ARP studs. H11 I'm sure have a higher tensile strength but when it comes down to it who needa stud stronger then the stock block?

I would save money, go with arp unless your going to have a 1000+hp build.

ARP's are rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength. The H11's are rated at 240,000. The block of the engine will blow to pieces at 220,000

edit: lol I forgot about ARPs newer STUDS the really expensive ones, maybe someone will post a link.

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8" Icon, Loud Pipe, 58v FICM, Deleted, MudGrapplers, Edge Insight, Sct tuned by Vivian.

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Last edited by 20046.0; 04-11-2012 at 01:49 PM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-11-2012, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 20046.0 View Post
The block will break before you stretch (properly installed) ARP studs. H11 I'm sure have a higher tensile strength but when it comes down to it who needa stud stronger then the stock block?

I would save money, go with arp unless your going to have a 1000+hp build.

ARP's are rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength. The H11's are rated at 240,000. The block of the engine will blow to pieces at 220,000

edit: lol I forgot about ARPs newer STUDS the really expensive ones, maybe someone will post a link.
thread on the new ARPs, mash here.

My only thought is, I'd rather pay a little more for some extra clamping force and hopefully make sure I never have to touch them again. I've seen 1 too many posts about having to do them again... Thoughts on that thought process???

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post #9 of 9 Old 04-12-2012, 05:52 AM
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Unless you are building some seroius drag or pulling monster, the regular ARPs will be just fine. Installed correctly of course. It is more importatnt to make sure the heads are machined well, that you use OEM gaskets,a dn torque the studs corrrectly. I don't think H-11 are worth it unless you find that you have high enough cylinder pressures to stretch the ARPS

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