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Old 03-27-2012, 07:34 PM
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Looking for some input here! Egr questions!

Alright I don't know if this info is posted elsewhere but I did a fair amount of searching and here I am. I have an I think early 04 CCSB 4x4 with 128k on it with an insight. I really want to get rid of the egr but can't because I purchased an extended warranty good till 150k. So I want to do the next best thing. I need the egr to be in the truck to pass a visual inspection for the warranty company. my question is has anyone had bad outcomes with a freeze plug in both ends of the egr with them being welded in? Also If this is done will it still throw any codes if I keep the egr valve plugged in but no gasses running through the cooler? I can't have any codes for the inspector. Also could this method cause any other problems for my truck?


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Old 03-27-2012, 09:03 PM
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ok it wont throw any hard codes meaning you wont have a check engien light but when you run a dtc it may or my not i think when i put my valve back in the soft codes went away but once i pulled the valve they came back... i think you should be ok pluse you on;ly have 22k miles left thats not much so you should be good
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:45 PM
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Bump


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Old 03-30-2012, 07:05 PM
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you wnat the other option drive your truck till you hit the 150k then mod it if anything happens between now and then you have a warranty use it... those are your options take a chance or use your warranty if something happens
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:27 PM
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With only 22k miles left, the cheapest route would be welding both ends of the cooler. But this requires you to spend a couple of hours under the hood to remove the EGR cooler/weld/re-install. The only cost to you would be some minor/cheap gaskets like turbo oil feed line.

The next cheapest and easiest would be a EGR eliminator spool plug. This will stop the flow of hot gases and possible coolant from entering the intake. This can be done in about 1/2hr. The only down fall to this method is, the up-pipe is not blocked off and if the EGR cooler were to fail, you would get the white smoke out the tail pipe unless you install a EGR cooler blocker plate.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...d=280716358592


Either one should make the PCM store a "P" code. You would have to check with your state emissions if the service tech would scan the truck for codes of emissions.

Welding the EGR cooler will keep giving you the "P" codes, even if you clear them, they will come back.

Using the EGR eliminator spool plug will allow you to remove the spool plug before emissions testing, clear the EGR "P" codes, install the factory EGR valve, drive around a couple of days, get pass your emissions test, then go back to installing the spool plug.

Either way, it's recommended to leave the EGR valve plugged in electrically, as to not cause motor issues.

Then after your 22k miles are up, you can do a full delete.

Just be careful with the aftermarket warranties, too many horror stories of what they don't cover.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:32 PM
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See that's where my company gets me, they cover engine, injectors, tranny and a bunch of other goodies, but I'm trying to prevent the 3000 HG charge if the egr goes. And the engine and heads are only covered if the failure is caused by a covered part. Which the egr and oil cooler are not covered. Unless there is no way they can trace it back to either of those I would like to take some sort of preventative measure to save my wallet. You guys catch what I'm sayin?


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Old 03-30-2012, 10:50 PM
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I am happy w/ my BPD EGR cooler. Not worried about leaks w/ it. I still do monitor the EOT and ECT split though.
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