With only 22k miles left, the cheapest route would be welding both ends of the cooler. But this requires you to spend a couple of hours under the hood to remove the EGR cooler/weld/re-install. The only cost to you would be some minor/cheap gaskets like turbo oil feed line.
The next cheapest and easiest would be a EGR eliminator spool plug. This will stop the flow of hot gases and possible coolant from entering the intake. This can be done in about 1/2hr. The only down fall to this method is, the up-pipe is not blocked off and if the EGR cooler were to fail, you would get the white smoke out the tail pipe unless you install a EGR cooler blocker plate.
Either one should make the PCM store a "P" code. You would have to check with your state emissions if the service tech would scan the truck for codes of emissions.
Welding the EGR cooler will keep giving you the "P" codes, even if you clear them, they will come back.
Using the EGR eliminator spool plug will allow you to remove the spool plug before emissions testing, clear the EGR "P" codes, install the factory EGR valve, drive around a couple of days, get pass your emissions test, then go back to installing the spool plug.
Either way, it's recommended to leave the EGR valve plugged in electrically, as to not cause motor issues.
Then after your 22k miles are up, you can do a full delete.
Just be careful with the aftermarket warranties, too many horror stories of what they don't cover.
2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
X-3 tunes by DJ'S,QT,GH,ID. Gryphon FICM tunes, ARP studs,Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,AD2,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,4" turbo back straight pipe,S&Bintake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv.,Billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,17" LCD TV/DVD,Cobra 29 Nitewatch CB