Finished EGR/oil cooler and guage pod. Some questions - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Finished EGR/oil cooler and guage pod. Some questions

2003 F350
I just finished upgrading to a sinister EGR Cooler, replaced my oil cooler and installed an autometer gauge pod. No leaking fluids woohoo. I would like to thank everyone that has posted information on this procedure especially fishermedics thread and all that contributed to it. Took about 8 hours not including the following problems.
Now I have a couple questions.
My egr cooler had about a dozen large tubes in it. I was expecting to see radiator type fins in there. Was this already upgraded by the P.O.? The O-ring on the EGR cooler had lots of corrosion around it. Is it possible there was an undectable leak there causing my fluid to vaporize out the degas cap?
I guess I feel like I spent a lot of money because of a $2.00 o-ring.
I obviously cannot see a lot of the inside of the oil cooler but it appeared clean. I expected to see lots of corrosion/blockage.


Gauges-
Transmission temp doesn't read after 30 miles. No load easy driving. No teflon tape on the sensor. What would an ohmeter read when checking it?

I found here that normal boost pressure is 28psi or so at WOT. How about @ idle. Should it be almost zero?

And the worst thing. I hear an hissing sound. Loudest on the passanger side. I'm guessing its an exhaust leak as I can smell it in the engine bay. The sound is worse under load. However at idle it cycles on and off???. A few minutes each. Its too hot to check the pipe connections yet. Seems to drive OK, although I didn't hammer on it.
Any thoughts or links to other threads please.

Last edited by Piratejonh; 03-25-2012 at 09:23 AM. Reason: added some info
Piratejonh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 09:18 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 
Chanzfx4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 205
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
The hiss is most likely downpipes leaking or y-pipe.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

2003 White F350 Fx4 CC SWR
Go Fasts:
X2 tuned with SRL+
4 Inch Open Dp
Egr Delete
Blue Spring Mod
Riff Raff Boots
Sinister Coolant Filter
All Aluminum Radiator
ZooDad
Looks:
Blacked Tails
285/75/16 Destination M/Ts
Camo Interior
Leveled
Raised Black Nerf Bars
Black Bed Rails
Chanzfx4 is offline  
post #3 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Is there a way to check or should I pull the clamps and reset it? They went on a lot easier than everyone led on about.
Piratejonh is offline  
post #4 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 09:57 AM
Serving Our Country!

 
macoyle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 1,245
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 5 reviews
I would agree other the y pipe leaking, and the boost should read zero at idle

06 F-250 ccsb King Ranch, 2011 KR interior AC seats, door panels, 3" RC lift, SCT X3, WILDMAN tune, bumpers, Edge CTS, AMSOIL bypass kit, pillar gauges, ARPs, Warren 155s, egr delete, 4" exhaust...the list goes on and on

2004 Toyota 4runner 3" lift Shrockworks bumper and 285's


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
macoyle is offline  
post #5 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Am I going to have to loosen the up pipe (Is that the right term-still learning here) on the drivers side again to reset the Y pipe clamp. That was absolutely the hardest part of the whole job. That rear flange nut/bolt is a PITA.
Piratejonh is offline  
post #6 of 9 Old 03-25-2012, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Oh noo-
It seems I installed the Manifold gaskets with the U shape in the up position but facing in towards the valley. Do I need to pull them and flip them around?

And now I initially had oil pressure now it seems I don't on the idiot gauge.

Last edited by Piratejonh; 03-25-2012 at 10:43 AM.
Piratejonh is offline  
post #7 of 9 Old 03-26-2012, 04:07 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Bump up for a new crowd
Piratejonh is offline  
post #8 of 9 Old 03-26-2012, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Whoa is me. I have a massive oil leak on the top of the engine. Pulled the Oil filter/fuel filter housing and turbo oil feed tube and reseated everything. heres for hoping.
Found a possible source for the hissing. Y pipe at turbo, left side, is not seated well. I've loosened both clamps at the exhaust headers but still cannot wiggle the upper end around to match it up. Whats the trick? I see another set of pipe clamps midway up on the passanger side almost behind the turbo. How the heck am I gonna reach that?
Piratejonh is offline  
post #9 of 9 Old 03-28-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 76
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Well the truck won. I look like I've been in a car accident. Sprained wrist, bleeding and so many bruises my neighbor was going to call the cops on my wife.
End result, broken turbo, broken VGT electrical recptor requiring an entire new solenoid, and the ICP pigtail is fried requiring a new end.
Thats $1500 in parts from MKM customs, 3000 for ford to fix what I broke. Should have let ford do it from the start.
Oh and don't believe everything you read on these sites. The gasket was in correctly, 03's don't need upgraded coolers and the gauge pod isn't a cheaper solutuion.
2003 F350 4-sale
Piratejonh is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome