My 2006 Powerstroke 6.0 engine rebuild thread and lots pics - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #11 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 03:54 PM
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Cool pics. Thanks for sharing.
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post #12 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
I think you'll be good to go. I've seen very little bottom end issues minus the occasional piston issue or possible lifter problems, but those are few and far between. Good luck on the build!
I hope so! The lifters I disassembled and cleaned them all out. I just want to add I had the entire engine cryo treated. Pistons, Connecting Rods, Crank, Camshaft, Block, Heads, LPOP, lifters, stage 1 push rods..all the stuff that matters.

The heads I did clean up work on all the intake and exhaust ports.
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post #13 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 06:19 PM
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D@#n that looks scary, when I did the egr delete, 3 new injectors it took me a month, laying on top of the engine working for an hour or so then had to rest for several days to let my blood pressure come back down to below 1000 psi, LOL not a lot of room to work. How hard was it to remove engine with the cab still on? I'm thinking about putting my 7.3 from a wrecked truck in place of the 6.0. I love the 6.0 when it works, that is WHEN it works.
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post #14 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by makaveli200369 View Post
I hope so! The lifters I disassembled and cleaned them all out. I just want to add I had the entire engine cryo treated. Pistons, Connecting Rods, Crank, Camshaft, Block, Heads, LPOP, lifters, stage 1 push rods..all the stuff that matters.

The heads I did clean up work on all the intake and exhaust ports.
Where did you get all this done? Do you have a machine shop? Awesome progress so far .

2008 6.4 CCSB FX4
1997 F350 CCLB 7.3
2011 F150 SVT Raptor
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post #15 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ronnie32567 View Post
D@#n that looks scary, when I did the egr delete, 3 new injectors it took me a month, laying on top of the engine working for an hour or so then had to rest for several days to let my blood pressure come back down to below 1000 psi, LOL not a lot of room to work. How hard was it to remove engine with the cab still on? I'm thinking about putting my 7.3 from a wrecked truck in place of the 6.0. I love the 6.0 when it works, that is WHEN it works.

Hahah I feel you on that. It wasn't that hard to remove it. The biggest pain of the removal was just the y-pipe and heat shields in the back. I pulled the radiator/intercooler out and swung the AC cooler to the side along with the other coolers. After unbolting the AC compressor the lines had enough movement to allow this.

I'd rather have the 6.0 it performs and sounds so much better. But I might keep my 7.3 truck around for a while But hopefully with all the mods and deletes it will be just as reliable.
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post #16 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ars5147 View Post
Where did you get all this done? Do you have a machine shop? Awesome progress so far .
Doing the work at my house. I'm having Freight liner machine shop doing the work. They work on big and medium size diesels.
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post #17 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Engine block pics. Bored and honed. Cleaned up the block and painted it install new core plugs. Polished up the cam lobes left side done right side untouched.
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post #18 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Pistons freshly hung on to the rods. In case anyone wonders the .020 pistons weighed the same as the stock bore pistons. All of them were balanced to the lightest one. The piston, rod, rings, clips came out to 2312 grams. Rods weighed 1205 grams.

Edit: Ford does not offer the small end brass bushing for the connecting rod. They want you to buy the whole thing. To get the replacement part go to International and order part #1834657C1 They are sold in (4)'s
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Last edited by makaveli200369; 03-13-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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post #19 of 55 Old 03-12-2012, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a tip that others might find useful when reassembling for cam to crank timing.

The cam gear has a little dot punched in it acting as a timing mark. 180 degrees from that dot are two holes. When is all the way through and the other one seems like a balancing hole that was not drilled through.

You will see there is a hole in the block that allows you to slide a drill bit through the cam gear into the block. This lines up the cam in proper position and locks it in.

The issue is trying to line up the crankshaft in the proper position. Ford bolts on that adapter on the back of the crankshaft which you are NOT supposed to remove unless you want to go through hell getting it back on right which most likely won't happen..You'd have to measure the run out etc etc and still risk it not being right. Since the adapter is on you cannot see the timing dot on the crankshaft gear.

Instead of buying the $400 ford tool that you'll only use once. You line up the dowel on the back of the crank in line with the dot on the cam gear...use an imaginary line. Now to verify you have it in the right position TDC install piston number one. It should be way at the top of the stroke..now to verify this remove the drill bit, spin the motor around and when you see the piston hit TDC you should be able to slide the drill bit back through the hole.
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Last edited by makaveli200369; 03-12-2012 at 11:27 PM.
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post #20 of 55 Old 03-13-2012, 04:07 AM
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Thanks for taking pictures. Looking forward to watching this project.

2009 F350 CCSB 6.4L PSD,2wd converted to 4WD, Auto, H&S Mini Maxx, Edge CTS Insight,5 inch exhaust.

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