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Rear Brakes
So this is my first attempt to do the back brakes on my truck. Just wanted to run my plan past the gents (and ladies) that know much more than I do.
My general idea is one wheel at a time:
I have never worked on or adjusted drum brakes, so do I need to do something special to get the rotor to clear the e-brake pads?As for my jack stands, I have a set of 6 ton's that I believe may reach the frame but if not, is the axle tube strong enough for me to use? Long story short: The caliper slide bolts started to stick and wore the inner pad down and caused the caliper to fail on the driver side rear, my fault for ignoring it. Thankfully I wasn't towing or going fast at the time, just trying to park in my driveway. Pedal went to the floor, I used the e-brake to stop and the truck has sat right there since (10 days ~ish). I noticed a puddle of brake fluid coming from the caliper and when I looked with a flashlight (always happens at night right...) I saw that the inner pad had come off the pistons and slipped down inside the dust shield. The pistons had then pressed directly into the rotor and the fluid was streaming from the hyperextended pistons. Between work and other commitments this is my first opportunity to get at it and there is no way I can drive to a brake shop. I already have everything for both sides (calipers, bracket, pads, rotors) and some fluid for bleeding. I got both sides because when I checked the passenger side I saw that the pads were very thin on the inside indicating a slide pin sticking situation. I plan on taking pictures as I go and then posting them up for everyone. I understand a BFH and a cold one (multiple) are in order as well. Any tips or tricks to getting this done? I appreciate all input! |
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Your story sounds quite familiar, probably cuz it has happened to me, sam drivers rear caliper
The axle tube will definitely be strong enough to support the truck. It does so every day of the trucks existence. Just make sure you place the Jack stands as wide as possible. Just make sure you have the parking brake disengaged, or the rotors will not come off. And, you are definitely going to need the BFH, the biggest one you got probably. I distinctly remember lying on my back under the truck so I had enough room to wind up and give a few hundred good whacks!Take lots of pics and Good Luck! |
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I used an impact hammer and rapped on the rotors between the lug studs. I also used a giant gear puller to help the rotor come off of the hub. They like to rust together. I did not use a bfh because I was able to give the rotors a slight resurface and reused them. As you now know, rotors are not cheap. Upon reassembly, I applied a light coat of anti-sieze to the hub where the rotor sits and also to the face of the axle to hopefully keep it from rusting together in the future. Just my 2¢.
Sent from my MB520 using AutoGuide.com App |
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The anti-sieze is a good idea, I did that too just for got about it. thanks for mentioning it.
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It was my rear driver side that was bad too. Luckily I caught it with just a few thousanths of brake pad left, so I did not experience the failure you have. I just got really lucky.
Sent from my MB520 using AutoGuide.com App |
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Thank you gents for the heads up on the anti-sieze, hell of an idea. I knew the axle was strong enough, I was just worried about the head of the jackstand putting too much psi on the tube if you can see what I'm saying.
Now I just need the weather to start cooperating with me and I might be able to get this started. Sleet + 30's = Not wrenching outside weather! The night before I dig into it I am gonna spray all the stuff down with some Kroil or PB to help loosen things up. I'll make sure to clean it up and brake clean everything as I put it back together. |
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My passenger rear has been sticking, and I'm pretty sure i have a rubber line collapsed. Eat use it pulls hard left when braking,
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