Installing the blue spring kit in the 6.0

[chrismccomb]

Tools:
24mm socket, for fuel filter cap
7/16 inch deep socket, for clamps near fuel filter
T27 torx bit, for four (4) screws holding the fuel regulator housing
6mm hex key, to tighten the brass fitting in the new billet fuel filter cap
Plus pliers and screwdrivers to remove the various hose clamps

Ordered the blue spring kit from Riffraff Diesel. Search for “blue spring kit” and it will come up. $29.88 + $5.90 shipping. (riffraffdiesel.com) (First picture.)

I only used two parts in the kit: the blue spring, and the new “keyhole” seal/gasket. (pics springs, keyhole gasket)

fwiw, I tried to buy it local, but after the parts guys in three different Ford dealers gave me blank looks, I gave up. Save yourself the trouble.

Also ordered a billet fuel filter cap, so I could get rid of the plastic one. The 24mm “nut” on the plastic cap was wearing down, and I figured it was only a matter of time before it broke. Turns out to have been smart: it broke this time. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the cap, pounded a Phillips screwdriver through the hole, then used a hammer to knock the cap loose. Took probably 7 or 8 smacks with the hammer. (pic 3)

Once the fuel filter cap is off, get the fuel out of the housing. I used a simple turkey baster which is kept in the garage for just this kind of thing. Then I cleaned the housing really well, since small drill shavings were in the bottom of the housing. (pic 4)

You will need to get two hoses out of the way. First, the big shiny one just in front of the fuel filter. (pic 5)

[chrismccomb]

Second, the top radiator hose. (You may decide not to remove this hose, but it was the only way I could get to all four of the screws holding the fuel relay housing.) Be prepared – radiator water will leak at both attachment points of the hose. (pics 1 and 2 show the hoses being moved)

Now you can get to the regulator housing. There are screws at each corner. I used a T27 torx bit, seemed to fit perfectly. Be careful when you remove the final screw: the spring is pushing on the housing, and will pop right out if you are not careful. The spring is at the bottom of the housing. Plus, there is a brass “canister” (for lack of a better word) inside the fuel filter housing, where the regulator housing connects. Don’t let that fall out – you will need it. The spring goes into that canister. (pic 5, canister) The blue spring kit from Riffraff contains a replacement canister, but it does not contain the gasket/seal which surrounds the canister.

Pic 3 shows the hoses out of the way, and the regulator housing after the screws have been removed.

Put the new keyhole gasket in its place, then carefully insert the blue spring and the canister, then put the regulator housing in its place, and attach with the four screws.

Now put everything back together. You might as well use a new fuel filter, because you will want to use a new seal/gasket when you put the fuel filter cap back on.

Hope this helpful. Lots of other folks have provided some really helpful information on this site, so I wanted to do my little bit.

[TexanLorenz]

Why not use the whole kit? Is it because of the gasket?

[chrismccomb]

Here is a picture of the two springs. The silver one is what came out, the blue one is what went in.

I do not know for certain that I had a fuel pressure problem, but this seemed like a prudent thing to do. My thanks to the many people who have commented on fuel pressure, as well as to the "bullet proofing" threads on this site.

[chrismccomb]

Originally Posted by ryanlorenz

Why not use the whole kit? Is it because of the gasket?

I didn't want to disassemble any more than absolutely necessary; I have made too many errors over the years.

[baycountry16]

Just did this today myself. I too only used spring and new keyhole gasket. Some guys said they had issues with new brass cup, so I just left old one in. Was idling at 49 psi before and now I'm at 70 psi, so mission accomplished!!


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[baycountry16]

Part of the reason I didn't use whole kit was that I could not get the nut attaching fuel line to housing to break free and I was worried about breaking it. So I just left housing attached, moved it out of the way, slid new spring in, replaced o-ring and tightened everything back up


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[Jarrod B]

im gonna try this this weekend

[madcat6183]

May need to look into this one. Higher PSI is always good for fuel lol. Found a local shop that has a 6.0 tech too, so hitting him up for some other diagnostics here in the next week or 2.

[otterlakepimp]

Thanks for the write up, I'm doing an EGR delete and figured I better tackle this too while I'm in there.