Trying to find an old topic - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-26-2012, 09:28 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: wakonda sd
Posts: 186
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Trying to find an old topic

Hey guys it wasn't that long ago a guy was posting pics of doing head studs and injector install without doing head gaskets. Can anybody find it and if so copy and past a link thanks!


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 02-26-2012, 02:27 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: wakonda sd
Posts: 186
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Bump....


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 02-26-2012, 03:00 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 3,199
Thanks: 1
Thanked 25 Times in 24 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Here is what one person did:

Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Installed ARP Studs Without Pulling Motor, Lifting Cab or Removing HVAC Box
I started by removing the batteries, entire air cleaner assembly, radiator, I/C and piping, fan and shroud. This gave me the room to stand in front of the motor to do the job. I also removed the alternator, wire harnesses, intake manifold, oil cooler/filter/fuel filter assembly, turbo and EGR cooler. I wanted to back flush the oil cooler to make sure it was not clogged (it was not), replace the internal oil cooler seals and replace the filter screen that is under the oil cooler. Also, since I have the early build (pre 9/22/03) I sent the EGR cooler off and had Neil Technologies upgrade it.

Man, when you get all of that crap off the motor there is not a whole lot left. So to get the motor positioned to remove the passenger side lower head bolts, I removed the 4 power steering pump assembly bolts and set it aside. Next, I removed the 4 bolts that hold the driver side engine and frame motor mounts together. I then jacked the motor using a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 on the driver side front oil pan lip. I then removed the engine motor mount bracket and then the frame motor mount bracket. Then I let the jack down until the exhaust manifold just touched the frame. I tried to remove the middle lower head bolt and it would only come out about 3/4 of the way. So I went under the X and removed the passenger side motor mount frame bolts (leave mount attached to motor). Then I got a second floor jack and piece of 2x4 and jacked the motor up using the lip right behind the starter where the motor and tranny attach. This rotated the motor enough to get all all of the lower last 3 head bolts out and the studs in. Reversed the process and now the motor is back in it's mounts and the studs are in. To get the motor positioned took me about 2.5 hours but would be a lot less if there is a next time. I did this in my driveway by myself and I'm 61 years old. Now I am awaiting gaskets and my upgraded EGR to complete assembly.

It took a little patience and thinking but the studs are in. I forgot how hard it was to pull 245 Lbs-Ft.

I know you are asking, why did I not change the HGs. Well, they were not bad and if they go bad I will now know how to replace them.

I installed the studs using the following procedure. I removed the OEM head bolts one at a time in the OEM torque sequence starting with #1. I installed the ARP stud and torqued to 150 Lbs-ft. After all studs were installed and torqued to 150 Lbs-Ft, I re-torqued bolts #1 to #10 using the OEM sequence to 200 Lbs-Ft. Then I repeated the sequence again to final torque of 245 Lbs-Ft. I then removed the 5 small head bolts, applied ARP lubricant and torqued to 18 Lbs-Ft then to final torque of 23 Lbs-Ft.

I will do a follow up post to let all who would like to know if this head bolt removal and ARP stud install works.

DSMMH
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:25 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: wakonda sd
Posts: 186
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Thanks a lot! This is a lot like the one i found on here what I was trying to find out is are the head bolts accessible right under valve cover or do i have to take any of the hpop or fuel system apart?


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors