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Time for studs?
Popped the hood this morning fresh coolant on top of battery also cold see we're it hit the hood when it came out! But haven't herd puking and hasn't run hot! Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app |
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Watch it very carefully.
Might be your oil cooler is clogged. Could be time to delete the EGR and other updated parts if you have not done them. |
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Already deleted EGR, have guages and haven't seen anything unusual.
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app |
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Possibly the degas cap has failed, go get a new one and also buy the coolant test kit to detect exhaust gases in the coolant system.
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If the puking you describe is accurate, studs aren't going to solve the current problem. You may want to invest in them for a sense of security but the sort of violent puking you describe indicates headgasket failure already. You may test for the presence of combustion gases in the coolant reservoir with a Lisle Combustion Leak Tester:
You need to address what caused the puking as studs won't prevent this from happening again universally. You can pull the EGR valve to check for the presence of coolant in the intake manifold (park with the truck front end lower than the rear end or jack up the rear end a few inches). Coolant introduced to the intake is frequently the cause of headgasket failures. In many cases this is precipitated by a plugged oil cooler allowing the EGR cooler to rupture. Before you get ARP studs though you ought to invest in gauges to monitor pressures and temperatures. The Edge Insight is highly regarded as are other OBDII capable digital packages (ScanGauge, SCT TSX, Banks iQ, etc.). You need to monitor coolant and oil temperatures to indirectly assess oil cooler efficiency. You need to monitor exhaust temperature to protect the turbo from overheating during operation as well as to gauge shut down conditions to avoid oil coking on the turboshaft. You need to monitor fuel pressure to avoid damage to the fuel injectors. I see the utility of monitoring the FICM voltage full-time as well. Transmission temperature is a useful measurement if you tow. All of these are more important than ARP studs in my opinion. The onboard stock gauges are truly inadequate for the task...glorified "idiot" lights that provide insufficient warning (as evident in your case if the headgaskets have indeed failed). I also encourage the regular sampling of all fluids to determine their condition. Coolant may be tested easily for pH, nitrite/carboxylate/molybdate, freeze point with test strips. Oils - and coolant too - may be analyzed by mass spectrometer through mail order laboratories: Blackstone Labs Predictive Maintenance Services, Inc. Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services or while you wait at an over-the-road truck service center. Knowing the fluid condition goes a long way in preventing future engine damages. Get some testers/tests. Good luck! Jonathan |
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After reading your recent post that you have gauges and an EGR delete I too echo the possibility of a cap failure or even a reservoir failure. My own reservoir developed a crack on the lower return but this would not produce coolant on the underside of the hood:
![]() I do think the combustion gas leak test set is a good next step in the process of elimination game. Jonathan |
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Thank y'all very much!! Going to get one this evening!!
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app |
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If you decide you want to stud it, I have a brand new set of ARPs i wont be needing as well as a tube of arp stud lube...i'll make you a deal.
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Quote:
Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app |
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Acustrip Antifreeze Coolant Test Products
Here is a full lineup of test strips for various types of coolants. Jonathan |
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