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Old 01-01-2012, 06:45 PM
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good deltas, new oil cooler, clean system question

I might get flamed here but I wanna know before I do this. I wanna change my coolant to ELC. My deltas are good and I have 3k miles on my new oil cooler. I don't see the need to use restore and restore +. The cooling system seams fine and not built up with chalky residue like others I seen. Can I just flush and fill with ELC? I don't wanna plug my new oil cooler if my deltas are fine. Any help? Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2012, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6ohslow View Post
I might get flamed here but I wanna know before I do this. I wanna change my coolant to ELC. My deltas are good and I have 3k miles on my new oil cooler. I don't see the need to use restore and restore +. The cooling system seams fine and not built up with chalky residue like others I seen. Can I just flush and fill with ELC? I don't wanna plug my new oil cooler if my deltas are fine. Any help? Thanks!
You can not just drain out the Ford gold, flush only with distilled water and think everything will be ok. You are changing the coolant type, not just the coolant. To change coolant type REQUIRES that you flush using two chemicals. The restore and restore+ flushes serve two different purposes.
The restore chemical flush removes a film that the Ford Gold coolant deposits on the walls of the cooling system to help combat cavitation, some have just used the Restore and every thing is fine but that is a must do flush.
2 stroker
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Old 01-01-2012, 10:48 PM
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Sub'd...I was just going to flush the hell out of it with water and refill with ELC...maybe that is the wrong approach. My oil cooler is still good even with 112k of gold crap through it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:01 AM
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Yes that is the wrong approach

This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps
Remember flushing may kill your oil cooler just be ready for it

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:21 AM
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I hate to say this, but I know several people that have plugged a perfectly good oil cooler by using the VC-9 cleaner. I also know several respected techs that say "let sleeping dogs lie".

I am not saying "Absolutely don't use it" because I would like a clean and rust free system as much as the next guy, but if you do it, you need to know the potential consequences. Clearly there are times when it is needed, but when you have good temps and deltas - I don't think I would use it on a switch. Just a thought and definitely JMHO.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:37 AM
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I definitely understand the use for it, but haven't seen anyone try it without it. If you do keep us updated on how things work out for you.
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:15 AM
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Lots of folks just flush with distilled water to get all of the old coolant out and then refill w/ new coolant. That is actually the "typical" way to replace coolant if you don't have any problems to start with.

That is what I decided to do w/ the Gold at 50k. Now at 102k and no problems (I know of several folks at 200k miles w/ Gold coolant and no problems). Time to do it again, but I will probably switch to the ELC EC-1 coolant.

I will not be using the chemicals. I am happy w/ my temps and deltas.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:20 AM
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I just did mine with Restore and Restore+. I didn't feel like I got a ton of stuff out with the restore+ like some others have reported, but definitely some big flakes and lots of small sandy stuff that never totally went away. I did end up plugging my oil cooler, but I already have another one and have been planning on doing EGR Delete and replacing the oil cooler anyway. Now, I'm not sure doing the restore+ was a good idea or not, but you really have no idea what's going on inside your system until you see what comes out. Tough decision with a new cooler in there...
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:51 AM
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I would do the Restore...but not the Restore+. Get yourself a coolant filter for big chunks that will break off now and then due to rust and scale.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 stroker View Post
You can not just drain out the Ford gold, flush only with distilled water and think everything will be ok. You are changing the coolant type, not just the coolant. To change coolant type REQUIRES that you flush using two chemicals. The restore and restore+ flushes serve two different purposes.
The restore chemical flush removes a film that the Ford Gold coolant deposits on the walls of the cooling system to help combat cavitation, some have just used the Restore and every thing is fine but that is a must do flush.
2 stroker
If your intent is just to change coolants you dont need to do the restore flus.


Changing type does not require a chemical flush of any kind.

The flush's intent is to break up any scale buildup which he wont have with an 3k mile oil cooler.

Drain the gold, Flush with distilled water. And refill it with red
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