Studs one at a time, SnapOn SRD35 Torque adaptor

[cRaZy8]

I just got my 2nd set of studs for the truck. Plan to do the one at a time swap in the next couple weeks while I am off of work.

My current gaskets have about 8k miles on them. Last time they came off was at the dealer. All new gaskets, the works. I have had no issues to date. The dealer gave me 6 months warranty on all the work done, which was up at the end of October.

I did a head gasket job once already, in cab, head removal, 2 years ago. I had BO gaskets and ARPs, they lasted about 10k miles. I had the heads checked out when I did the job, and they were both near perfect. At that time, I did a lot of other work, new oil cooler, STC fitting, glow plug harness', glow plugs, etc. That took me like 6 days of solid work. I really dont want to do all that work again.

Has anyone used the Snap On adapter I mentioned? I remember the one stud on the driver side giving me issues. I dented the firewall, and it still busted my balls (and knuckles) to torque that stud. The description on their website even says it allows you to get away from pulling the cab and denting the firewall.

SRD35, Torque Adaptor, Diesel Head Bolt, 6.0L Power Stroke Engines

Also, I see from other posts, the 2003-2004 trucks have more clearance to pull the bolt on the drivers side. Is that true?

[wthomps]

Keep in mind that by changing the length of the lever arm and angle of attack you are changing your end torque value. There is a quick formula you can use to recalculate the value. Depending what kind of torque tolerance you're trying to hold (ie 25-50ft/lb range) it may not make much difference.

When I'm working on combines at work I use similar things from Armstrong. I try to avoid using them whenever possible, but there are a few bolts on hydro pumps that are 12 point and there isn't enough room to fit a socket. As I recall when I'm torquing to 180Nm I have to change the torque on the wrench by about 10Nm.

[cRaZy8]

Yes, you are correct. I have similar tools called torque adapters. They are 12pt extensions for torque wrenches. You have to calculate the addition of the extended lever arm. I use these on 2 stroke outboard cylinder heads. Some of the bolts are way down inside the pan, and you cant reach them.

[Nu2Ford]

Never knew this existed. This makes the possibility of studs much more feasible for me budget wise. Is this a new device? How come dealers or shops don't use this device?

[sinner6.0L]

for one the torque adapter doesn't appear that it's actually made to torque studs. I believe it's mostly used for getting the two 90° swings on factory head bolts with the cab on. if you look at the end notice it accepts 3/4" drive. I don't know anyone that owns a 3/4" drive torque wrench.......but I do have a 3/4" drive breaker bar

also you are not supposed to pull the bolt, loosen it, leave in in the head and rubber band it in place so it comes out with the head. same goes for intalling the studs, put them in the head first rather than trying to clearance the firewall to drop it in.

honestly it's a tool that's made to sound great on paper but like a lot of snap-on's specialty diesel tools it's not the miracle time saver it claims to be

ALSO, i have heard that if you remove the trans mount bolts and jack the rear of the transmission up it will give you more clearance at the rear of the heads

[Rjstepp]

sweet, know what I might need to get before I do studs

[sinner6.0L]

Originally Posted by Nu2Ford

Never knew this existed. This makes the possibility of studs much more feasible for me budget wise. Is this a new device? How come dealers or shops don't use this device?

Because anyone that wants the heads installed and torqued correctly pulls the cab. this tool has been out about a year now and it is not well liked among ford diesel techs

Originally Posted by Rjstepp

sweet, know what I might need to get before I do studs

believe me, this tool is not going to make installing studs with the cab on that much easier

like I said, it accepts 3/4 drive, most people don't have tools that size

[cRaZy8]

Sinner, you make a valid point. I have a lot of tools for my profession, and 3/4" torque wrench isnt one of them. I have 3/4" breakers/sockets..........

Is it even possible to pull that last bolt without pulling the heads off? I ziptied it in place last time I did it.

What is behind the firewall in that area? Can you cut/drill a hole, to pull the bolt through?

[sinner6.0L]

I have seen guys dent the hell out of it to get that bolt out. nothing there but firewall, I wouldn't cut anything

definitely try taking out the trans mount nuts and raising the transfer case with a jack, it should tilt the engine forward enough to atleast make a little difference.

[cRaZy8]

I guess if I dent the firewall and jack the tranny, I should be able to get the bolt out.

And if i dent it enough, i assume my torque wrench will fit in there.