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post #1 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Has Anyone Tried To Do This?

My oil cooler has less than 5K miles on it and the deltas are closing on 15* very fast.
I had some time to myself out in the garage today while I was planing some oak and got to thinking...

If I do a flush, there is a good chance that the cooler is going to get completely clogged rendering my pickup unusable, and I would have to change the cooler. Since the cooler will be out, what would happen if I soaked it in Restore, Restore Plus, and/or VC-9, or just some solvent of some sort, then flushed just the cooler on the bench, (not actually on the bench, but you know what I mean).

Since I will have to R&R the cooler anyways, what do I have to loose? If it works then I just saved myself 2-$300 for the new cooler, if it dont, I am just out time and would have had to replace the cooler anyways.

Your comments are appreciated.



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post #2 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 03:06 PM
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I don't see it doing much, since the chemicals "do their magic" once they reach the normal operating temp.
Interested in the outcome if you decide to do it anyway.
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post #3 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about that too, I have an old barbeque that I was going to throw out anyways, and I cab get the temp to 185-195 pretty easy and let it bake for a while...

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4" MRBP Turbo Back, No Muff, S&B Intake, Sinister EGR Delete, SCTX3, Edge Insight CTS, Blue Spring, Zoodad, Optima Yellow Tops, DIY Coolant Filter,ARPs, B&W Turnover Ball (W/ Companion Hitch), Ding Ding Mod, 2 1/2" Leveling Kit, 17" Wheels, BPD Fuel Filter Cover, AFE Rear Diff Cover, BPD Oil cooler & 58 Volt FICM, S&B Intake horn and coldside CAC tube
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post #4 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:09 PM
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Why not! Heck, I found myself boiling water and placing thermostats in the hot water with a thermometer to see where they were opening

(no I don't have too much time on my hands, actually the opposite) Just needed to figure out what is good and what is junk around here.

Go ahead and do it!

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post #5 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:13 PM
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could you submerge it in a pot of heated chemical?

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post #6 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 510guy View Post
could you submerge it in a pot of heated chemical?
Yup. In a grill or something of such. I wouldnt do it on a stove or anything near the house though!

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post #7 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galaxie View Post
Why not! Heck, I found myself boiling water and placing thermostats in the hot water with a thermometer to see where they were opening

(no I don't have too much time on my hands, actually the opposite) Just needed to figure out what is good and what is junk around here.

Go ahead and do it!
That is kinda what I was thinking, I really have nothing to loose

Quote:
Originally Posted by 510guy View Post
could you submerge it in a pot of heated chemical?
Yeah, basically that is what I was saying, just in different words.

I think that there is only the O-Rings on the inlet and outlet that I would have to worry about, as long as I didnt break them taking them off, all should be good, right?

In theory you should be able to run water through it before you bake it and after, if everything works right you should see an increase in flow. unless the blockage isnt bad enough to see the difference but you would still want to flush the nasty chemical out anyways so why not?

Correct me if I am wrong...Please



'03 F-350 6.0 CC LB 4X4:
4" MRBP Turbo Back, No Muff, S&B Intake, Sinister EGR Delete, SCTX3, Edge Insight CTS, Blue Spring, Zoodad, Optima Yellow Tops, DIY Coolant Filter,ARPs, B&W Turnover Ball (W/ Companion Hitch), Ding Ding Mod, 2 1/2" Leveling Kit, 17" Wheels, BPD Fuel Filter Cover, AFE Rear Diff Cover, BPD Oil cooler & 58 Volt FICM, S&B Intake horn and coldside CAC tube
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post #8 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galaxie View Post
Yup. In a grill or something of such. I wouldnt do it on a stove or anything near the house though!
Oh yeah, it would have to be outside, I think that the wife would be pissed if I did it in her oven...



'03 F-350 6.0 CC LB 4X4:
4" MRBP Turbo Back, No Muff, S&B Intake, Sinister EGR Delete, SCTX3, Edge Insight CTS, Blue Spring, Zoodad, Optima Yellow Tops, DIY Coolant Filter,ARPs, B&W Turnover Ball (W/ Companion Hitch), Ding Ding Mod, 2 1/2" Leveling Kit, 17" Wheels, BPD Fuel Filter Cover, AFE Rear Diff Cover, BPD Oil cooler & 58 Volt FICM, S&B Intake horn and coldside CAC tube
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post #9 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 05:23 PM
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What the heck, why not, the chemicals aren't that expensive. To be honest though, I don't think it will work, after seeing a thread a number of months ago of someone who had taken a bandsaw and cut theirs in half. The goo in there was incredible, and if you can't circulate the chemical into it, it won't clean it. If you can do a search and find the thread, it may be interesting reading. Then again, what do you have to lose other than a little time and chems? Go for it!

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Originally Posted by kdogg85
In all honesty, once you do the basics(tuner,egr,studs, etc.)which is a small fortune in itself, you're spending clydesdale sized money for walking horse sized gains. And if your truck will break the tires loose as is, where's the benefit?
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post #10 of 22 Old 12-31-2011, 05:55 PM
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If I was going to try that I'd get one of those fertilizing garden sprayers. the kind that has a little reservoir for plant food to go in and introduces it as the water goes by.

Put the solvent (restore or VC-9) in the sprayer and hook the hose end up to a hot water source and back flush it through the coolant side

you definitely need hot water though

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