Advice on buying a F350 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Advice on buying a F350

Hey Everyone,
I am new to the forum and new to Ford Diesel. I used to drive a full size chevy (1990) but sold it due to crap gas mileage. I am looking at buying either a 2004 F350 with 83K miles or a 2008 F350 with 86K miles. Both have the 6.0 in 'em, tow and plow packages etc. I need it to move my jet skis and quads and such and the POS Jetta I got stuck with ain't cuttin it plus I hated it from day one cuz it a damn car.

Any pro's or con's or over all advice? I am an apprentice heavy equipment mechanic and I know what to look for as far as engine and drive train and all but I have never driven or owned a ford... so

Any replies are helpful!

[and yes im a girl ]

PS- Thnx to Rhys05 _> 08 has a 6.4... Seller ad was wrong I guess, silly me.

Last edited by CodyGirl; 12-29-2011 at 12:16 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:07 PM
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2008 is the start of the 6.4, 2007 was the last year for the 6.0.
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhys05 View Post
2008 is the start of the 6.4, 2007 was the last year for the 6.0.
Good to know... car dealer lied then. I didn't even think to check that...

Thnx
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:16 PM
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Late 2006 and early 2007 is the best year for the 6.0 I believe the late 2007's have the DPF installed. Say good bye to fuel economy with the 6.4 unless you do a bunch of mods. I'm sure others will chime in on what's what.
Always get maintenance records and an OASIS report from Ford.

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post #5 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:18 PM
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Spend some time reading on 6.0 it can drain your wallet and patients. Great info on this site and lots of help available. Fuel mileage isn't great I don't care what you hear, heavy trucks use lots of fuel. 12-17 mpg, on summer fuel.

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post #6 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:20 PM
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Probably was just thinking "well, they both have the PowerStroke..so they are both the 6.0." It at a Ford dealership? I doubt that they "lied" ..more likely it was just ignorance. Get a ScanGauge II, check the FICM voltage at (COLD) key on, cranking, and WOT (should be 48V). Once it is warmed up (coolant temperature 185-190F) get it on a flat highway and set the cruise at 60-65 and check the temperature differential between the coolant and the oil, shouldn't be more than 10-15F, with less than 10 being ideal. (these are all relevant to the 6.0, I don't know much about the 6.4!) That would get you started anyway! Oh, and make sure that the batteries are good..
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhys05 View Post
Probably was just thinking "well, they both have the PowerStroke..so they are both the 6.0." It at a Ford dealership? I doubt that they "lied" ..more likely it was just ignorance. Get a ScanGauge II, check the FICM voltage at (COLD) key on, cranking, and WOT (should be 48V). Once it is warmed up (coolant temperature 185-190F) get it on a flat highway and set the cruise at 60-65 and check the temperature differential between the coolant and the oil, shouldn't be more than 10-15F, with less than 10 being ideal. (these are all relevant to the 6.0, I don't know much about the 6.4!) That would get you started anyway! Oh, and make sure that the batteries are good..
Yes it is a a Ford dealership. Its not a certified pre-owned though. Makes me iffy about it.
But I will definitely check for the things you mentioned.

Thanks!!
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post #8 of 8 Old 12-29-2011, 01:26 PM
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Ask the dealer for a FULL Oasis history report, this report shows everything that was done under warranty.

Start reading up on the 6.0, they can be great motors if you know what to look for. Try to find out about the maintenance from the prior owner, if they neglected it, you may end up paying for it.

Here is a good start for you.
Things to consider about owning a 6.0L

As already mentioned, take some kind of monitoring solution with you to the dealer. Check the ECT/EOT delta, the FICM volts, find out if there are any mods done to the truck (EGR delete, studs). If possible, have them confirm the fuel psi at idle and at WOT, if it falls below 45psi you risk damaging the injectors. FICM volts should stay above 46v at cranking and KOER.

Ask them to NOT have the truck warmed up before you get there. Your gonna want to start the motor cold, check for smooth idle. Rough idle could mean FICM issues, or injector stiction. Check for white smoke out the exhaust, could mean EGR cooler failed, FICM issues, and/or turbo seals.

I know I'm forgetting alot, others will chime in.

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