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Old 12-28-2011, 06:40 PM
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No heat at idle

Sorry to beat a dead horse but I just moved to Illinois from Florida and have no heat until it completely warms up and I get over 1500 rpms. I sometimes have to make it hit 2000 rpms to get it flowing to the heater core.

I don't have anything in the coolant, I flushed it awhile ago and no not with restore, I used purple power because like a dummy I thought any parts store would have it but none in Tallahasse had it, patience is not one of my best attributes!! Anyway that was over 5k ago and I haven't lost coolant and it looks just as good as the day I put it in and yes I had this problem before I did the flush. No silica came out and verything looked clean when I did it. I already replaced the radiator cap with no luck.

It does look wet under the cap everytime I park but not losing fluid. No smoke or any other clues, I know everyone may think HG but I am looking for any suggestions or if you have had this problem before let me know what you found.

Any suggestions would help.

2004 f250 with 120k
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:56 PM
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To me, it sounds like you are low on coolant. I'm fighting a leak somewhere and that's how I know when it's time to add coolant- my heat blows cold at idle. If that's not it, maybe it's something to do with your T-stat?
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:12 AM
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No coolant loss at all

It does take about 5 miles of driving to warm up.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:35 AM
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Some models came with a in-line heater hose control valve. The valve is designed to shut off coolant flow to the heater core when you put the A/C on max setting to allow cooler A/C.

This valve is actuated by vacuum, sometimes the gray vacuum hose gets knocked off the in-line valve and keeps it closed.

Take a look under the hood, look for this gray hose. It will either be connected to the in-line heater hose valve or to a nipple on the HVAC box.

In this picture, you can see below my hand what the gray vacuum hose looks like.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:26 PM
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Mine does have it and I have verified it opens a couple of times.

Only when the rpms go up does the hose get warm.

Thanks for the input though.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:40 PM
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You will need to confirm your ECT, the ford thermostat will fail in the open position. Temp should be around 190 when fully warmed up. While your at it, check your ECT/EOT delta to confirm that your oil cooler is not blocked.

Have you checked the heater core hoses after its fully warmed up (190*), the hose with the in-line valve will be the feed for the heater core, touch the hoses and compare temp differences. It's rare, but the heater core can become clogged with casting sand.

If the above mentioned is OK, I would suggest getting your coolant tested for exhaust gases. Meaning, there might be a chance it's the headgaskets.
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:21 PM
GAS GAS is offline
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Could be that the water pump impeller is slipping on the shaft, or the blades have corroded away. Ive seen that happen before.
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Old 12-30-2011, 07:10 AM
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my truck did the same thing when my head gasgets start to fail...
i sure hope that this isn't your case.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:43 AM
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Most of the times when HG are failing and this happens it is due to loss of coolant. So, you could have the water pump issue or you could even have a good old clogging heater core. It happens.

Do you have gagues? Is your oil cooler up to snuff? You could have something going on with your cooling system.

Start small and go big. But it is hard to do anything or figure anything out without gauges.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAS View Post
Could be that the water pump impeller is slipping on the shaft, or the blades have corroded away. Ive seen that happen before.


The plastic impeller is known for that. BPD sells a billet aluminum impeller that fixes that issue
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