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post #1 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Possible Buyer for new 03 F250 PSD

Hey guys,

I'm getting close to buying a 03 or 05 PSD. The 03 F250 I'm looking at has 118,000 and are there any problems with these trucks mechanically? I have been doing some research on it and hear both good and bad things but what is the general impression? This will be my first diesel and are there other years I should look at that are "better"?

Thanks all!
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 08:35 PM
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Depending on where you're at. I have this one for sale.

2006 Ford F-350 xlt - Edmonton Cars For Sale - Kijiji Edmonton Canada.

03 F-350 FX4 SC LB 8" BDS lift, 18" Fuel Hostages, 37" Mickey Thompson MTZ's, ARP Studs, NADP EGR delete, AFE Intake, CFM + Large Bore manifold, MBRP 4" turbo back with 6" Black miter stacks, SCT TSX with tunes from Gearhead and Quick Tricks, Bulletproof bumpers.
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post #3 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lambo3244 View Post
Hey guys,

I'm getting close to buying a 03 or 05 PSD. The 03 F250 I'm looking at has 118,000 and are there any problems with these trucks mechanically? I have been doing some research on it and hear both good and bad things but what is the general impression? This will be my first diesel and are there other years I should look at that are "better"?

Thanks all!
if it was me personally and the miles and price were in the same ball park i would go with the 05. the interior and exterior is much nicer and the did some modifications to the motor to make it a little more reliable. the 07 was by far the best 6.0 made so the newer the 6.0s had improvements done to them. but with that being said i have a 04 with 265k on it and it has a 03 motor. take good care of it and keep up with maintanance and you will be fine and if you can depending where you live delete the egr cooler and you will be just fine.

2008 f250 ccsb 4x4 lariat.. 8 inch lift, 24in fuel hostage, 40in ss m16, Arp studs, egr delete, street diesel performance down pipe, intake elbow and cac pipe, Diesel site boots, xrt pro with kem tunes, s&b intake, 5 inch exhaust, edge cts, tinted mirror lights, pioneer 8400 double din, hid headlights and fogs, two jl audio 13tw5 with rockford 1500 watt amp, jl audio door speakers and tweeters, prestige 2 way alarm and remote start.

00 f350 lariat 7.3 cc lb. (the worker)
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post #4 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 08:43 PM
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Here is the deal with the 6.0. Any good tuner (person writing your tunes) is not going to give you a tune that is going to tear up your truck. There are trucks all over the place running 400-420 rwhp with 750-800 rwtq all day long without problems.

Yes the 6.0 is known to blow head gaskets. This is why it happens. The Ford Gold coolant contains silicates. The silicates are not able to handle high EGT's generated by a good load or relatively high boost when they run through the EGR cooler. They break down into a gell like sludge and fall out of suspension. This crud gets caught up in the tiny coolant passageways of the oil cooler. As the cooler clogs up it restricts coolant flow to the egr cooler. Now the egr cooler doesn't have enough coolant to carry off the heat generated by high EGT's. The limited amount of coolant in the egr cooler flash boils causing high pressure in the cooling system and the truck pukes coolant from the degass bottle due to the pressure. (it has to go somewhere)
Your uninformed Powerstroke owner is not monitoring his coolant temps and oil temps so he doesn't know whats going on and he keeps driving it this way. The problem gets worse, the pressure causes the egr cooler to rupture. Now the egr cooler is leaking coolant into the intake manifold which then runs into the cylinders. Again the high combustion temps cause the coolant to vaporize. This causes unacceptably high cylinder pressure, the TTY head bolts stretch due to the add'l pressure and there go your head gaskets.

Ok now you know the problem. Here's the cure. Get a good engine monitoring solution like the Edge Insight so that you can monitor your ECT and EOT. If those temps get more than 15* apart with normal cruising when at normal operating temperature your oil cooler is clogging up. Rebuild it now to prevent all that down stream damage from occurring. Flush that Ford Gold coolant crap out of your engine with a couple bottles of Restore. This is made specifically to clean out that silicate residue. Now refill it with a silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant. This removes the silicates that clog the oil cooler from the equation. If you live in an area where you don't have smog inspections delete the egr system. If you can't delete it replace the egr cooler with the cooler manufactured by Bulletproof Diesel. This is vastly superior to the Ford oem egr cooler and it will not fail on you. If you find that you need to replace head gaskets replace the TTY head bolts with ARP studs and use black onyx (Victor Reinz) head gaskets. If you have to replace the egr cooler always replace the oil cooler. That is the source of the problem.

Now that you have addressed the common problems that scare the he11 out of people, get an SCT tuner (i like the X3) and install some custom tunes and drive the heck out of it. DO NOT baby it. The Powerstroke hates this and will rebel with turbo issues.

Turbo issues are also common repair points with the 6.0. People like to complain that it's because the VGT turbos are pieces of junk. This is not so. The VGT vanes in the turbo need to be exercised regularly. This means making them go through their full range of motion. So put your foot in it regularly and let it see some full boost runs. That will keep your VGT vanes from getting all sooted up and freezing up because of the soot. Again, that is what happens when you baby it. Put your foot in it and you will have less problems. Lay out of it and try to milk it for mileage like you would a gasser and you're going to have turbo issues. Don't let it sit either. That is also the kiss of death to the turbo. The unison ring rusts up and again you have turbo problems. So now that you know you need to give your turbo a regular work out to keep it happy, give it a proper cool down as well. Just whipping into your parking place and shutting it down will lead to coking the bearings and again major turbo issues. Running a good synthetic oil will help here immensely because it handles heat so much better and resists coking. But always let your turbo have time to cool down. This is one of the reasons you need a Pyrometer (EGT gauge). Let the EGT come down to 350* before shutting your truck off. This only takes a couple of minutes, especially if you take it easy on it for the last couple minutes of your trip. If this is too much hassle for you get a turbo timer that will automatically delay shutdown when you turn off the key to allow the turbo to cool down.

Injectors. Ford's HEUI injection system fires the injectors with High Pressure Oil, to the tune of 4,000psi at Wide Open Throttle. Maintenance is critical here so you can not let your oil maintenance slide like you can on a gasser. It will kill your injectors. The injectors also are known to suffer from something that we call stiction. That is when the oil side plunger of the injector hangs up or sticks when cold until the truck warms up. I believe this is caused by varnish buildup that is common to dino oils, especially those containing paraffin. Using a good synthetic oil will take care of that because it actually cleans the engine as it lubricates. If you do find yourself with some injector stiction add a couple of bottles of Rev-X to your oil. It has cleared up 99.9% of the trucks it has been used on. 2 bottles run around $70. A new injector is about $250-$290. Be anal about keeping your oil clean and fresh and changing your fuel filters regularly. The other thing that kills injectors is low fuel pressure. The fuel pressure needs to stay above 45psi at all times and is typically set around 52 psi from the factory. Well the factory fuel pressure regulator spring is weak and looses it's tension over time and can't maintain adequate fuel pressure. There is an updated rebuild kit that uses a better, stronger spring. Installing this spring will bring your fuel pressure up to about 62 psi and solve that. Get a fuel pressure gauge. It's important.

So that covers the frequent complaints with the 6.0. They are all well known at this point as are the solutions. Does it suck we have to fix Ford's blunders? Heck yes it does. But again we know how and once done you will have a very reliable robust truck that is well worth the effort. So address the issues as you can and enjoy your truck. It is a dynamite vehicle. I love mine.
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Got questions about your 6.0? http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ning-6-0l.html

Still runninng Ford Gold Coolant? http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ml#post2063212



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post #5 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GForce View Post
Depending on where you're at. I have this one for sale.

2006 Ford F-350 xlt - Edmonton Cars For Sale - Kijiji Edmonton Canada.
Like the truck a lot but I am a ways out from you. Plus that is a little out of my price range.

2003kingranch,

Awesome information! I will definitely have to save your post. So with this purchase:

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...standard=false

Should I flush the coolant and replace it with the silicate free Cat EC-1 rated ELC coolant after I flush it with Restore? Then after that pillar gauges for oil temp, pressure, EGT and get the X3 tuner? I think that sounds like the right order. And of course replace that pressure spring if the oil pressure is too low. I can't wait to get into this. For the record, I'm extremely meticulous about my rigs and keeping this truck tip top shape is exactly what I intend to do.
I live in WA state and we do have emission tests so that means I can't delete the EGR right?

Last edited by Lambo3244; 12-26-2011 at 09:06 PM.
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post #6 of 15 Old 12-26-2011, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GForce View Post
Depending on where you're at. I have this one for sale.

2006 Ford F-350 xlt - Edmonton Cars For Sale - Kijiji Edmonton Canada.
Pretty classy photo you got of it infront of the Mickey.

1994 PSD Regular Cab Long Box
5 Speed
AFE Cold Air Intake
Superchip
3'' DP

2006 Dodge 3500 6 Speed
846hp, 1456tq
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-28-2011, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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For the record, if I get a monitoring system like the Edge CTS do I still need to get pillar gauges?? What is the difference between an Edge monitoring system vs. pillar gauges?
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-28-2011, 05:21 AM
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I have the Edge Insight and no pillar gauges. The main difference to me is 1) cost 2) Insight is all in one 3) diagnostics you can't pull a DTC with any pillar gauges.

2012 F250 Lariat CCSB FX4, Gooseneck and 5th wheel prep package, H&S Minimaxx, 5" AFE SS straight pipe, EGR delete with factory EGT sensor, 35" Toyo MT's on stock rims, and Bilstein 5160 shocks.
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-28-2011, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomaslord84 View Post
I have the Edge Insight and no pillar gauges. The main difference to me is 1) cost 2) Insight is all in one 3) diagnostics you can't pull a DTC with any pillar gauges.
That's what I wanted to hear, I ordered my CTS Insight last night.

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post #10 of 15 Old 12-28-2011, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford fanatic View Post
That's what I wanted to hear, I ordered my CTS Insight last night.
Make sure you get the EGT preferably the expandable one so you can add any gauge you want.

2012 F250 Lariat CCSB FX4, Gooseneck and 5th wheel prep package, H&S Minimaxx, 5" AFE SS straight pipe, EGR delete with factory EGT sensor, 35" Toyo MT's on stock rims, and Bilstein 5160 shocks.
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