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2005 6.0 oil cooler
I have a 2005 6.0 f250 that I bought a few months ago
the previous owner recently ( within a yr) had diesel shop in MI do all this work because it blew a head gasket: machined heads new onyx head gaskets arp stud kit new oil cooler egr block off kit SCT programmer when I drove it home a 3-4 months ago 5.5 hrs drive it was fine, but the next day I noticed coolant leaking from the degas bottle. 1st tried a new degas cap I found that the OC temp and the Coolant temp were greater than 15 degrees apart upto 40 degrees sometimes 2nd called the company that did the work because I thought the head gasket went again they said the replaced the oil cooler and flushed the whole system but they told the owner to flush in at least 3 more times, he said the previous owner probably didn't keep flushing it and the oil cooler was probably getting clogged because when the head gasket went it contaminated everything in the cooling system and it was impossible to get it all out in one flush. He said to try to flush it again and if that didn't work I would have to replace the oil cooler again. So I flushed it and it was better for awhile (wouldn't loose as much coolant from the degas bottle) Now its bad again and loosing coolant, no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, no smoke or water out the exhaust. So I decided to replace the oil cooler, Its on a national back order at the dealer. When I got the old one out I cut it in half with a sawsall. Well it didn't look all plugged inside like the other pics I have seen. When I blew in the inlet I could feel resistance and when I blew in the outlet side, no resistance. I shined a flash light down in the inlet side and there is about a 1/4 inch or more of black crud, I scrapped some out with a screw driver and if you rub it between your fingers its like grease??? I ordered a new oil cooler and a sinster coolant filter. Does anyone know what this is? The middle of the cooler where I cut it in half was not plugged up that I could see, it looked pretty clean. Is the crud from the previous headgasket blowing? or any ideas? I am going to flush everything out including the block and heater core, but I don't know what this is or what it is from? I will try to get some pics Thanks Brian |
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Welcome
This is what i would i do install the coolant put 5-7K miles on it to remove the casting sand and the other junk running around in the system then if you are running the Ford Gold junk coolant i would do a good Restore flush 1/2 to 3/4 gallon this will addresse the oil, and grease in the system then go back with a ELC coolant and see what you have then. I would get this install on the driverside block drain, keeps from getting burned http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...20&Search.y=17 Someone may have a better plan but it sounds like you have few days to get ready. http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf 2 stroker
Last edited by 2 stroker; 12-22-2011 at 04:08 PM. |
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Right now I have it all apart waiting on the oil cooler. I was going to flush it out real good with a hose before I put it all back and add the coolant filter. After I get everything back you are saying check the filter and if its bad after 5-7k drain it and do the restore or vc-9 flush? what antifreeze do you suggest i see some suggest the cat, Zerex G05, and others say stick with the motorcraft gold?? confusing?
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From what I'm hearing you should not use the Ford Gold garbage, but rather an Extended Life Coolant. For anyone else reading this, I'm doing a flush today and I'm not sure of the reason why I can't use the hose water to do the flush rather than buying 25 gallons of distilled water. Any input?
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Flushing with tap water is fine. For your last few flushes use distilled water, I believe it's due to the iron and mineral content of the tap water.
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