03 6.0 coolant change help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:45 PM
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Question 03 6.0 coolant change help

alright the other day i decided to check out my FICM becuase a cold start issue. turned out to be a bad battery and thank god FICM is still good. Putting the coolant resivor back in i broke the plastic T right under it fixed that but realized my coolant is green. wich brings me to my first question. shouldnt it not be green? plan on doing a good distilled water flush and want to add the right coolant. what do you guys recomend? and would it be ok to go from green to a diffrent kind as long as i do a good flush? a quick response would be great i plan on doing it tomorrow morring with an oil change. thanks!
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 03xl350 View Post
alright the other day i decided to check out my FICM becuase a cold start issue. turned out to be a bad battery and thank god FICM is still good. Putting the coolant resivor back in i broke the plastic T right under it fixed that but realized my coolant is green. wich brings me to my first question. shouldnt it not be green? plan on doing a good distilled water flush and want to add the right coolant. what do you guys recomend? and would it be ok to go from green to a diffrent kind as long as i do a good flush? a quick response would be great i plan on doing it tomorrow morring with an oil change. thanks!
Well you have the wrong coolant in now so do you have GAUGES to check deltas spread between ECT-EOT you need to know that the max is 15* doing 60 flat ground 3-4min take your readings so without gauges you could plug up your oil cooler just so you know. Here is the flush i did used 48 gallons distilled water 1/2 gallon Restore 1/2 gallon Restore+ 1/4 tank of fuel and 12.5hrs of my time.
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:42 PM
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Must be concentrate not a 50/50 mix
There are many modern Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants specifically designed for diesels. Delo ELC, Rotella ELC, International's Fleetrite ELC, CAT ELC, Mobil 1 ELC, and a host of others. They will address diesel cavitatation, provide superior metal corrosion protection, provide better heat transfer, require no testing and maintenance, be free of harmful abrasive silicates, borates, and phosphates, and have an operating life up to 1 million miles (Delo ELC). In fact International, who made your engine, recommends and factory-fills with these Heavy Duty Extended Life Coolants (Fleetrite ELC/Shell Rotella ELC). And in fact almost all heavy duty diesel manufacturers use Heavy Duty ELC's meeting the most strict requirements in the industry...Caterpillar's EC-1.
To make it easy just go to Napa and get this
Valvoline.com > Products > Antifreeze Radiator Products > Antifreeze > Zerex® Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant
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