Update: Drove the truck today, actually they let me take it for the weekend. All was well until I got out to put fuel in it and smelled hot brakes...found the front driver side brakes were hot. Not smoking, just hot. I also noticed the front tires are worn funny so I think something is up with the front end...ball joints maybe and I think 8 months of sitting may have caused that brake caliper to become a little sticky. Other than that the truck seems to run great, lots of power, trans seems to shift good, I just wish it would shift a little earlier like before the tach hits 2000 rpm. I haven't checked ect vs eot yet, that's tomorrow along with jacking up the front end and trying to figure out exactly what's up with that.
That's what I was thinking...I should probably upgrade my cheapo scan tool at the very least. I got to thinking last night...their asking price was 25,000...said they'd sell it for 19,500 but they would need to fix a few things (ball joints and windshield squirter) to pass inspection so I doubt they're going any lower. I also have a hard time ponying up for the diesel when it don't get hardly any better mileage than the same thing with a gas engine. From reading on here it's going to cost about $3,000-$4,000 or more just in parts to fix the known issues depending on how far you want to go, and I know people have done it cheaper, but it seems the right way to go is:
BPD kit (EGR Delete + cold weather oil cooler kit)
Blue spring in fuel pressure regulator
STC fitting update
custom tune (for better mileage and EGR delete)
I fugure anything worth doing is worth doing right. So after you 'fix" it, you're pretty much back up to list price and I'm not so sure it's a good deal after that. On the plus side, the truck drove good and I really like the way the transmission shifts compared to any other diesels I've been in. That's about the newest one I've been in...Dad just got a leftover 2011 a week ago but I haven't been for a ride yet.
I'm in a bit of a pickle since I like the body styling and pretty much everything about the truck but I'm not sure I'm ready to commit to a 6.0 that needs more attention that a diesel should (in my opinion), meaning having to modify it to make it reliable. We have lots of older diesels on the farm and they just work without any special attention. My cousin has a cummins 5.9 and he just changes the oil and keeps fuel in it and it keeps going...no issues. Anyway thanks for the comments...but unless the come down on the price some more I don't think this is the one for me.
The 6.0 redlines at 4k or so. Most tuners set it to 4150. Shifting before 2k really bothers the he11 out of me. If you want it to short shift any tuner can write you a custom tune to do that but Matt at gearhead tunes short shift by default.
Don't assume because the egr cooler and oil cooler were change in the last 2 years they're good to go. You CAN NOT ASSUME with a 6.0. You have to monitor the EOT and ECT for the delta. The cheap way is a scangaugeII or get an Edge Insight if you are sure you're getting a 6.0. You will need it anyway.
While head studs and a BPD oil cooler are really great addition to the 6.0 they are not requirements for reliability. You seem handy enough to do your own work and you should be able to handle the issues yourself for $1k or less.
Flush it right with Restore and Restore Plus or VC-9 and change the coolant to a Cat EC-1 Rated ELC and get the gold G-05 crap out of there. Delete the egr if you can or replace the egr cooler with a BPD cooler. Replace the oil cooler with an oem if necessary. Put a coolant filter on. use a 5w40 synthetic oil and change it every 6k-7k. Throw a couple bottles of Rev-X in it with your first oil change. You should have a pretty reliable 6.0 then. Don't do head gaskets unless you need them. If you want to add a BPD oil cooler great, they are a great upgrade but not a requirement for a reliable 6.0. Doing the work above yourself you are easily in for under $1k. Throw an SCT tuner on it with some street and tow tunes and don't look back.
Make the dealer fix any known issues like brakes, ball joints etc. before you buy it. If you don't know that the oil cooler is clogging they certainly won't tell you.
The 6.0 is a great motor that gets a bad wrap. IMO the 4 injectors were the result of the 15w40 dino oil and not synthetic. The paraffin wax in the oil causes varnish buildup on the spool valves causing them to stick. The oil cooler/egr cooler is the result of the G-05 Gold coolant Ford uses. Turbo probably just needed cleaning.
$19,500 isn't too bad a price for a dually with that mileage.