![]() |
Please Visit our Site Sponsors
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
EGT/EOT/ECT Questions on what works to lower them!
I am think about getting 6.0 but after researching the problems with the 6.0 has, I come to the conclusion that the best fix to this engine is to keep the EGT,ECT,EOT down.
Their are some aftermarket oil coolers out their that seem to work to an extent. But they all seem to have a negative side affect to their design. After reading a bunch of threads I have never heard of anyone suggesting to try the following ways to decrease all the temps. 1. Put a bigger exhaust on and delete the cat or gut it. An exhaust that is 4 or 5 inchs will give you at least a 25% lower EGT temps. Which if the EGT are lower the EOT temps should go down a long with the ECT because the engine is able to get rid of that much more heat. 2. Put a High Flow oil cooler in. I have read that the high flow oil cooler will have higher EOT temps. But If you use a biger exhaust which lowers your EGT temps at least 25% then the EOT and ECT should be right where they need to be which is the 15 delta range. This is what I was thinking on doing to help keep all the temps down. 1. Put a exhaust of at least 4 or 5 inchs on and deleting the cat. 2. Delete the EGR cooler to prevent the problems that come with having one. 3. Put a High Flow oil cooler in to prevent the problems that come with an Oem oil cooler. 4. Some say a coolant filter will help but, if you do a good coolant flush and put some EC-1 coolant in you should not need a filter because all the gunk should be pretty much flushed out. Plus the High flow oil cooler will not clogged if any was not flushed out during the flushing process. 5. Get something to monitor what the engine temps are at. 6. Get a new fuel pressure regulator spring. So what do all you think about what I said about keeping all the temps down. Thanks |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
|||
|
Well 4" or 5" exhausts that are straight piped are pretty common to the 6.0. EGT's are not usually an issue unless you run a really hot tune. I have larger injectors and bigger turbo and while my EGT's are hotter than stock still nothing that is damaging to the engine. Yeah, it is 4" straight piped into duals.
EGR deletes are advised if you live in an area that doesn't have emissions. The real problem starts with the coolant the the oil cooler which shows up when the EGR cooler ruptures. The OEM oil cooler is really a pretty decent design once you take the EGR system out of the picture and run a EC-1 rated coolant. There is a higher flow unit made to replace the stock oil cooler but it is a POS and flows to fast to do the heat transfer. There is no down side to the Bulletproof Diesel remote oil cooler other than the cost. It is worth every penny but it is not inexpensive. Stay with the oem if you can't swing the BPD setup. The 15* delta is not as important if the EGR is deleted, it just lets you know that you will need to be addressing a clogging oil cooler soon. Monitoring is absolutely essential and and Edge Insight CS/CTS is a great way to do that. You need the optional EGT probe, and can add Fuel Pressure with the EAS setup. The thermostat is set to start opening at 192* and fully open at 219*. Your coolant temps should be a minimum of 192* and in hot weather may drift into the low 200*'s. this is not a problem for a diesel and they are quite happy to run there. In fact you fuel mileage will probably improve due to the increased efficiency. You don't want it running cooler than this, it's not good for the engine. The blue FPR spring is a good idea but you still need to monitor fuel pressure. Too low you kill injectors, too high you blow the o-rings. 55psi to 70psi is a good range. You want to stay above 45 and below 80. A bypass coolant filter is still a good idea even with ELC coolant. A bypass oil cooler is a good idea for your injectors and the rest of the motor. Use of a synthetic 5w40 will make your engine and injectors happy and keep them healthy assuming you change oil every 6k-7k miles and use Motorcraft or Racor filters. Change fuel filters every other oil change. Change the Trans fluid and filters every 30k with Mercon LV or a synthetic equivalent. Theses things should keep your truck happy. Oh yeah, if you decide to tune it an SCT tuner with custom tunes is the only way to go. |
|
|||
|
Quote:
The only reason why I am hesitate about putting a oem oil cooler back in is they always seem to clog back up even when people have done the flush and switched to ec-1 coolant and put a coolant filter on. But again that could be because the flush was never done very well so the flush never got the majority of the gunk out of the cooling system. I like the bpd oil cooler but the price is what is high. I guess that could be a item that I would just have to save a few weeks for. I have heard that the bpd oil cooler raises the ac temps a lot. So that was the draw back of the bpd oil cooler. |
|
|||
|
The BPD condensor mounted oil cooler doesn't affect the AC at all. Yes meticulous work is required when flushing the cooling system. If done right the oem setup is pretty reliable. I still sleep better with my BPD.
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
The chemicals used in the two chemical flushes work a heck of alot better when heated to standard operating temps of this engine (190°F give or take a few). If the flush is done with colder temps, and the flushing is rushed in any way, you do not get a very good flush. It is like many things in life, you get back what you put into it. The BPD oil cooler has zero effect on the AC system, or at least it has not on my AC system. There is also a member here that tows quite often in the summer heat of Arizona with that system, and has no AC issues. I have yet to see any drawback to running the bulletproof oil cooling system. |
|
|||
|
Quote:
Here is a question has anybody used the bpd cooler and tryed to put a heat shield in between the cooler and the ac condensor to prevent the cooler from heating up the condensor. That should solve any problems heating up the ac condensor and affecting the ac temps. Last edited by ljhopp; 11-24-2011 at 06:34 PM. |
|
|||
|
'Heat shield?' Great idea... Block the air flow through the cooler, that will affect your EOT for sure
sent from iPhone using Autoguide App |
|
|||
|
Quote:
The oil temp is dependent on the coolant temp, since the oil cooler is a liquid/liquid style cooler. One half has coolant flowing through it and the other half has oil flowing through it, Engine load, high coolant temps and plugged coolant passages within the oil cooler will result in higher oil temps. Again, no size of exhaust will help this. Quote:
If you buy that piece of JUNK "high flow oil cooler," you will have some heat issues to deal with. The way they achieved "high flow" was removing a few coolant passages and a few oil passages in the stock oil cooler design. What that does is SERIOUSLY hamper heat transfer between the two fluids. Your oil temps can get hot enough that the PCM will actually defuel the engine in an attempt to keep you from melting it down. Quote:
Placing a "heat shield" between the BPD oil cooler and the condensor is like riveting a big piece of flat metal in front of your radiator. What do you think will happen? Not only will your AC system NOT work at all, your oil temps would be through the roof and your coolant temp would be through the roof as well. (since both of those components are in front of the radiator) |
|
|||
|
Yes you are right a heat shield in front of cooler and inbetween the condensor will block air flow to the cooler. But if you put the cooler in front of the condensor the idea might work. I was only throwing out ideas no need to get upset. I only said put a heat shield in between the two to prevent the heat from cooler geting to the condensor. I after I thought about it that would be a very bad idea. I am not saying I no everything I am just asking a lot of questions about certain things. Thanks for schooling on my questions!!
Last edited by ljhopp; 11-24-2011 at 08:10 PM. |
|
|||
|
The whole "bigger exhaust" would only remove so much heat. There would still be plenty of heat that can not be "vented" by the exhaust system. The heat from the combustion is absorbed by the engine components. One thing to be aware of is that diesel engines run more efficient at hotter temperatures. Removing too much heat from them is generally a bad idea.
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|