Grab the top and bottom of the tire and rock it back and forth. If it rocks you got a wheel bearing.
Then rock it horizontally, and see if you have a rod end going out or some slack in the suspension somwhere. There should be no slack in it.
Grabbing the top and bottom of tire for that test may give you a false diagnosis, on wheel bearings. If the ball joints are bad, it will cause movement.
It helps if you have a buddy, safely support the truck so the tire is off the ground.
For wheel bearings, your better off putting your hands at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position, and do the push/pull alternating pressure. You'll be watching behind the tire at the rotor and a stationary part like the knuckle. If your seeing the rotor moving in/out, then it's most likely the hub bearings.
Ball joints, you'll put your hands at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position. Push/pull alternating pressure, and look for play at the ball joint.
For Tie rod ends, with the truck on the ground. Put your key in the ignition and turn it so you release the steering wheel lock, but don't start the truck. Have a buddy move the steering wheel left and right really hard and fast. While he is doing this, you'll be underneath looking for play at the Tie rods, drag link, and pitman arm knuckles. If all checks out good, give the Zerk fittings a shot or two of grease.
While your at it, check your sway bar and drop links for play, and have a look at your carrier bearing for play also.
2004 F350 CC DRW King Ranch
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