Whole new list of issues..need help

[armyguy209]

So a quick refresher first..

Truck was running crappy and felt like it had a huge loss of power(probably 3 weeks ago now). Took it to the dealer and they said the FICM was bad and running at less than 32v. Sent the FICM off to SWAMPS to get the 48v heavy duty mod. Got it back and Ford put it back in the truck. Ran better but still felt as if it was lacking power from where it was originally running Matt's SRL.

Was at work 3 days ago, came out to get in the truck and go home. The truck was dead. I figured I might have left something on and it killed the batteries. My buddy gives me a jump start and I make it home(1.5 hour drive)

I take it straight to Kragen and have them test the batteries. They said that the batteries were testing good but that the alternator was bad(11 volts I think). They said that they couldnt accurately test the batteries unless I unhooked one of them and they tested one at a time. I didnt have the tools or time so I left. Took it home, then out to the bar/dinner. Ran fine and started up. Afterwards I parked it in the driveway and it sat the rest of the night.

Next day,(Monday, Nov 16) I go outside and decide to install my fuel pressure gauge. I get all of the wiring done first and tapped into the fuse panel so that I could pull my power for the gauge. I had the dome light on the whole time. When I go to start it up, the truck was dead. I charge it up for a little bit and get it started. The truck was surging and I had no dash lights. The dome and headlights were super dim. I turn it off and figured I finish the next day.

So on Tuesday I took a look at the fuel bowl and was having a really hard time getting access to the test port in order to install the sinister adapter. I figured I would go ahead and dive into it while I was there and put the new fuel pressure regulator kit on it(full kit with blue spring). Well after that whole day of putting everything on, the truck just wont start even after charging it. I figured the alternator was shot but at least I had finished the fuel pressure gauge so that I could now figure out where my PSI was at(really wish I could have seen before installing the new kit).

Today, I had it towed down to Ford(Thank God for AAA). They throw a new alternator on it and tell me that my batteries are shot. I decided to go with the Die Hard Platinum(925CCA) and a 4 year no questions asked warranty. After the 4 years it is pro rated. I run down and buy the batteries and then shoot down to Ford. They were just closing so I threw my batteries in and it started right up(very strong cranking power). I noticed that none of my dash gauges were working. I found that to be very strange and thought I might have blown a fuse. Well I start to drive home and as I am leaving the Ford parking lot I notice that might truck is surging every couple of seconds and has a huge loss of power when the surge is occuring. I check my fuel pressure gauge and it was reading about 68-70. I keep paying attention to it on the freeway and try getting on it. It dropped from 68 to about 40 at WOT so I stopped doing that real quick and just kept the pedal steady. I was able to limp the thing all the way home(20 miles or so).

First thing I did was disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the fuse box where I had tapped in with the Add-A-Fuse in two spots. Put the regular fuses back into their spots and just left the FP gauge disconnected for time being. I turn it on and now all of the dash gauges work. I then took it for a drive and the surging was gone, however it still felt like it was running a little weird. I got on it 3-4 different times and tried to drive at different speeds, some easing my way into it, some getting on it at WOT.

Well I notice when I get it back home that a check engine light had popped on. I pull out the SCT and read the codes. I got the following codes that popped up:

P0231-Fuel Pump Secondary CKT low

P0560-System Voltage

P0562-System Voltage Low

P115A-Low Fuel level-Forced Limited Power

P1378-FICM System Voltage Low

U0155- Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (IPC) Module

U0100-Lost communication with ECM/PCM


So now I am wondering if my FICM is taking a dump again already. Can I test this with my Auto Enginuity without having to take the FICM off/apart? I am also wondering if most of these codes are from before when my batteries/alternator died. What do you guys think? Should I just erase the codes and drive it to see if they pop back up?

[bismic]

The FICM code you got is a FICM supply voltage code - not an indication of a failed FICM yet. It wouldn't hurt anything to erase the codes and see if they come back - as long as you are sure you have now resolved the battery/allternator issues. Sometimes you can get into a repetitive cycle of failures if you do not replace the alternator and both batteries at essentialy the same time.

[armyguy209]

Originally Posted by bismic

The FICM code you got is a FICM supply voltage code - not an indication of a failed FICM yet. It wouldn't hurt anything to erase the codes and see if they come back - as long as you are sure you have now resolved the battery/allternator issues. Sometimes you can get into a repetitive cycle of failures if you do not replace the alternator and both batteries at essentialy the same time.

I will try that...Ford put on a new alternator today and I put in both new batteries. The alternator was covered under warranty since they just put a new one on less than 1 year ago and it already failed again.

I am gonna see what the Auto Enginuity says but this is my first time using it so we will see how that goes. I guess I will erase the codes and see what happens. I will have to tap into some other wires for the fuel pressure gauge(probably the stereo power/remote) this time.

[armyguy209]

Well, I went outside and was messing with the Auto Enginuity trying to figure it out. Seems like it can do quite a bit. Went to real time monitoring and clicked on FICM(main) with the engine running and live monitoring. It was reading between 48-49V at idle so I am guessing the FICM is ok. There were a few other options for FICM but I dont know what they were so I didnt mess with them. I didnt get a chance to run it while driving but I will do that when I get another day off on Sunday. I also checked the battery voltage which was between 12.89-13V. I didnt see an option to check the alternator. I went ahead and deleted the codes for now so we will see what pops up. I am really curious how to use this thing to check everything.

I am also really curious how tapping into some of the fuses with an Add-A-Fuse can make the vehicle surge?? Any ideas? Hopefully when I tap into the stereo wiring I wont have that problem again. I will then recheck the fuel pressure.

[bismic]

Electrical issues are a pain - and the hardest to get any "internet help" with since you just have to roll up your sleeves and do the multimeter testing yourself. Sounds like to me you had (hopefully it is had) a short to ground issue.

It may already be used up, but Ford offers a switched power spare wire. It is a white wire w/ blue tracer that is taped off at the wiring harness that feeds the OBDII connector. It is labeled as "customer access" (not to be confused w/ the "customer access bundle" that are the wires that pull through the fire wall). Its fuse is #29 and is rated for 10A.

[armyguy209]

Originally Posted by bismic

Electrical issues are a pain - and the hardest to get any "internet help" with since you just have to roll up your sleeves and do the multimeter testing yourself. Sounds like to me you had (hopefully it is had) a short to ground issue.

It may already be used up, but Ford offers a switched power spare wire. It is a white wire w/ blue tracer that is taped off at the wiring harness that feeds the OBDII connector. It is labeled as "customer access" (not to be confused w/ the "customer access bundle" that are the wires that pull through the fire wall). Its fuse is #29 and is rated for 10A.

Thanks for the info. I drove the truck to work today probably a 60 minute drive and it ran great. It was probably a combination of the new FICM, alternator, batteries, and new updated fuel pressure spring. It has more power and just seems to run much better. I am still going to be putting another alternator on and keeping this new one as a spare. I want to get the beefiest high output alternator that will last for years to come. Any ideas? I have quite a few electronics in my truck (stereo, gauges, in dash DVD,etc) so I am thinking a 250-270 should be pretty good even if I add more stuff later. Just looking for a good company with a good rep for lasting products since these OEM ford ones seem to take a crap all the time.

[sbarbee54]

Sounds like you had a grounding issue, site search altenator. There were a couple threads with some companies people reccomended. I had the same issues, my truck was eating altenators like candy. I opted to have a local place rebuild mine and the over amped it. Before i did that it ate 2 sets of batteries and a FICM

[sbarbee54]

Also you are in NORCAL, I can look up the place I got mine built at and see if they will ship you yours back if you ship it to them. They are in Auburn CA

[bismic]

I really like my DCPower (250A) alternator. I have 2 extra batteries that I feed from the alternator (through a battery isolator).

[armyguy209]

Originally Posted by bismic

I really like my DCPower (250A) alternator. I have 2 extra batteries that I feed from the alternator (through a battery isolator).

I just ordered mine. I got the baddest alternator they make.. The XP270.

I am in NorCal and we have a place here that does them but after researching, the Dc power XP series seems to have the newest technology out right now. They partnered up with Delco for the technology.