Whole new list of issues..need help
So a quick refresher first..
Truck was running crappy and felt like it had a huge loss of power(probably 3 weeks ago now). Took it to the dealer and they said the FICM was bad and running at less than 32v. Sent the FICM off to SWAMPS to get the 48v heavy duty mod. Got it back and Ford put it back in the truck. Ran better but still felt as if it was lacking power from where it was originally running Matt's SRL.
Was at work 3 days ago, came out to get in the truck and go home. The truck was dead. I figured I might have left something on and it killed the batteries. My buddy gives me a jump start and I make it home(1.5 hour drive)
I take it straight to Kragen and have them test the batteries. They said that the batteries were testing good but that the alternator was bad(11 volts I think). They said that they couldnt accurately test the batteries unless I unhooked one of them and they tested one at a time. I didnt have the tools or time so I left. Took it home, then out to the bar/dinner. Ran fine and started up. Afterwards I parked it in the driveway and it sat the rest of the night.
Next day,(Monday, Nov 16) I go outside and decide to install my fuel pressure gauge. I get all of the wiring done first and tapped into the fuse panel so that I could pull my power for the gauge. I had the dome light on the whole time. When I go to start it up, the truck was dead. I charge it up for a little bit and get it started. The truck was surging and I had no dash lights. The dome and headlights were super dim. I turn it off and figured I finish the next day.
So on Tuesday I took a look at the fuel bowl and was having a really hard time getting access to the test port in order to install the sinister adapter. I figured I would go ahead and dive into it while I was there and put the new fuel pressure regulator kit on it(full kit with blue spring). Well after that whole day of putting everything on, the truck just wont start even after charging it. I figured the alternator was shot but at least I had finished the fuel pressure gauge so that I could now figure out where my PSI was at(really wish I could have seen before installing the new kit).
Today, I had it towed down to Ford(Thank God for AAA). They throw a new alternator on it and tell me that my batteries are shot. I decided to go with the Die Hard Platinum(925CCA) and a 4 year no questions asked warranty. After the 4 years it is pro rated. I run down and buy the batteries and then shoot down to Ford. They were just closing so I threw my batteries in and it started right up(very strong cranking power). I noticed that none of my dash gauges were working. I found that to be very strange and thought I might have blown a fuse. Well I start to drive home and as I am leaving the Ford parking lot I notice that might truck is surging every couple of seconds and has a huge loss of power when the surge is occuring. I check my fuel pressure gauge and it was reading about 68-70. I keep paying attention to it on the freeway and try getting on it. It dropped from 68 to about 40 at WOT so I stopped doing that real quick and just kept the pedal steady. I was able to limp the thing all the way home(20 miles or so).
First thing I did was disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the fuse box where I had tapped in with the Add-A-Fuse in two spots. Put the regular fuses back into their spots and just left the FP gauge disconnected for time being. I turn it on and now all of the dash gauges work. I then took it for a drive and the surging was gone, however it still felt like it was running a little weird. I got on it 3-4 different times and tried to drive at different speeds, some easing my way into it, some getting on it at WOT.
Well I notice when I get it back home that a check engine light had popped on. I pull out the SCT and read the codes. I got the following codes that popped up:
P0231-Fuel Pump Secondary CKT low
P0562-System Voltage Low
P115A-Low Fuel level-Forced Limited Power
P1378-FICM System Voltage Low
U0155- Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (IPC) Module
U0100-Lost communication with ECM/PCM
So now I am wondering if my FICM is taking a dump again already. Can I test this with my Auto Enginuity without having to take the FICM off/apart? I am also wondering if most of these codes are from before when my batteries/alternator died. What do you guys think? Should I just erase the codes and drive it to see if they pop back up?