Should I 12 valve it? What would you do?

[Bend6.0]

When I bought my current truck, 2003 F350 XLT 6spd 6.0 4x4 w/27k, now 43k, I had the intention of swapping in a 6bt. Since owning it I have been really liking the power and mpgs. I have no problems with it. I am at a point that I either feel I want to put some money into to the 6.0 for more "bullet proofing" or sell the motor as is and do the swap. So my question is to all of you 6.0 pros is: should I just sink 3-5k into the 6.0 or just spend the money on the swap that I've always wanted to do. Money is not factoring into this question, I am aware of the costs. My pros/cons to doing the swap:
Pros: Simplicity that I can work on, reliable power/mpg, all mechanical, it's cool.
Cons: Electrical/mechanical issues with factory options, less power, low power band, any annoying issues that arise from not having a factory motor in the truck.
Thanks in advance.

[drunk on diesel]

Just drive it. It doesn't even have 50k miles on it.

or sell it and buy one already done. You'll be time and money way ahead

[Dave]

Stud this one if and when the time comes. Get yourself ECT and EOT gauges. Switch to red ELC

[PGreenSVT]

If you can do your own work you can have the 6.0 relatively bulletproof for about $1k. If you throw in a BPD remote oil cooler make it $3500. From all I have seen to do a proper cummins swap and have it as clean as a factory job with everything working and looking like it belongs there is about a $15k job. I would stick with the 6.0.

[Galaxie]

Do the 12v and sell me your 6.0 set up. They are junk and I will take it for my 59 Fairlane.


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[Deathrod]

do what i did....keep the 6.0 in the truck and do the preventative stuff.....stuff a 12v into a 30' model A!!

[Galaxie]

Originally Posted by Deathrod

do what i did....keep the 6.0 in the truck and do the preventative stuff.....stuff a 12v into a 30' model A!!

Nice! Yea, I would love that!


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[99F250SD7.3]

I vote to "bullet proof" the 6.0, it's a pretty stout motor when its studded and what not, you can put some power to it with a tuner and have a blast, then turn it down when you want better mileage...

[d and b installer]

Money wise Keep the 6.0 last fummins I did cost 12K just in parts course its a little cheaper since your starting with a diesel rig. probably about 8-9k to make it looks factory If your doing your own work. It doesnt look it but there is actually a lot of fab involved to do the swap and have it look right. Plus the fact that every 30k miles you'll have to lift the cab to adjust the valves as there just is not enough room to remove the back valve covers.

[Milehighturbo]

12v's get good mileage because there gutless!!