No power until egine is fully warmed up? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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No power until egine is fully warmed up?

I am still searching for my new (to me) 6.0 since I sold my Cummins 3 weeks ago. I found a 05 XLT PSD 4x4 with 82K for $16K. Older guy who knows nothing about diesels has it, but a few thousand mi ago his son blew a EGR cooler and head gaskit and kept on driving. So long story short, he had a shop install a used motor w ~90K on it. I am meeting him today to check it out, and to get all the paperwork and the contact info for the shop that performed the swap. Says it was "fixed right" (whatever that means) and the shop told him there would be no more cooler probs. I am hoping this means it has already been upgraded and hopefully studded, we wil see.
Anyway, he has put 3-4K on it since and says it drives like a dream. The only problem he is having is that it HAS to warm up for 5-6 minutes no matter what the weather, or it has no power. Is this a normal PSD symptom? I ALWAYS warmed my Cummins up before trying to drive, so I've never really noticed this. Not sure if this is him just being gun-shy and looking for problems now, or a sign of something else.

I am going to go drive it in a few hrs, will have my ScanGuage so I can monitor my coolant/oil delta and I plan to let it sit for a while and then start to see if I can observe what he is talking about. Thanks in advance guys
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 04:57 AM
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6.0's are highly prone to have injector issues. The term is "injector stiction". The spool valve on the injector will hang up causing low power and rough running. It's most noticeable cold. Once the injectors get a little heat in them they work better and the problem goes away.

It can also be caused by FICM issues. Monitor FICM voltage when you first key on with the engine cold. The injectors work off 48 volts and the FICM makes this voltage and controls the injectors. If FICM voltage drops beneath roughly 46 volts when you first key on then it will probably need the FICM replaced. I've seen FICM voltages drop as low as 20 volts and the truck will still run. As the injectors get heat in them they operate easier so it will run better even with a screwed up FICM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:12 AM
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Great advice right there.

You can use a quality synthetic oil and stiction isn't as severe. You can also add Rev-X oil additive and it helps cure injector stiction. (Probably the only snake oil that actually works!)

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post #4 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:31 AM
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You might get lucky and only need a FICM, which can run you anywhere for $300-$800. There are a lot of different options.

Worse case it needs some injectors if Rev-x and synthetic oil doesn't work. Injectors on these are pricy, you're looking at roughly $275 an injector. Most places charge 6-8 hours to replace all 8 injectors.

I've had people who thought they needed 8 injectors and it was just a FICM issue, and I've had people who thought it was a FICM issue when it was bad injectors, so check it out.

Injectors will fail usually due to improper maintenance like extended oil change intervals, and since he threw a used engine in it's hard to say how the maintenance was.
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replies, and awesome info guys. "Stiction", I knew there was a term for it just couldn't remember it. The only code he says he's gotten is a "water in fuel", but he couldn't remeber the exact code. I'll see if I can pull it up in the history when I get there. Theoretically, if there were bad injectors, there should be codes or other signs right? And how does this tie into the "blue spring" upgrade? I will be searching while I wait for more replies, thanks again
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:49 AM
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post #7 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:53 AM
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If it has one or two injectors acting up and missing bad enough then it "should" log an cylinder balance fault for that cylinder. I say should because it has to missing rather bad for the PCM to log this code. The PCM monitors RPM and looks for a weak cylinder. But if you have a bunch of weak cylinders due to bad injectors it won't necessarily log individual cylinder codes.

Low FICM voltage will usually log codes also, but not all the time. Depends on how weak the FICM is.

Blue spring upgrade refers to the fuel pressure regulator spring. The fuel pressure regulator controls how much fuel pressure there is. The spring has been upgraded to a blue spring. Low fuel pressure will cause rough running, missing and low power, but it will usually do it all the time, cold or warm. If it's running good warmed up then I wouldn't think it's a fuel pressure issue, but of course you would have to verify this by actually checking fuel pressure.
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawgfan77 View Post
Thanks for the quick replies, and awesome info guys. "Stiction", I knew there was a term for it just couldn't remember it. The only code he says he's gotten is a "water in fuel", but he couldn't remeber the exact code. I'll see if I can pull it up in the history when I get there. Theoretically, if there were bad injectors, there should be codes or other signs right? And how does this tie into the "blue spring" upgrade? I will be searching while I wait for more replies, thanks again
Alot of times with the stiction issue it will not set codes or set a CEL.
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post #9 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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I am in Aiken, SC. That's near Augusta, GA. Good stuff. I've been a Ford guy my whole life, but the 6.0 issues scared me into a Cummins Dodge, but it just never quite felt right, trying to get back home now! thanks guys
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-11-2011, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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OK, just drove the truck. My scanner wouldn't show the oil temp, only coolant temp; and it wouldn't show the FICM voltage, or any fuel info for that matter. Thought mine would but I guess I have to find a better one.

After the test drive I could smell coolant, so I popped the hood, and sure enough, the coolant was low and steam/smoke was coming off the engine directly under the coolant bottle. Oil looked clean, but I didn't let is sit for more than a few minutes. We couln't find or hear any leaks, and nothing was wet. Does this seem like the cooler again?
By the time I met him, had already made arrangements to take it back to the shop who did the motor swap to have them test the voltages since its still under warranty. So he called them again to tell them about the coolant leak.

So now says he won't sell it until they have it all straight, seems like an honest guy.

Known problems right now are:
-hard starting when cold and no power till warm-up
-coolant leak somewhere
-steam/smoke coming off motor
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