BPD install project - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 169 Old 11-07-2011, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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BPD install project

Here goes - inspired by fishermedic I'm tearing into my '07 6.0 to install BPD's full bulletproof system. This motor got it's head gaskets replaced by the dealer @72k miles, and dealer replaced high pressure O rings @102k. Now at 103k an oil cooler rupture, so I'll do it myself this time! I'm not a mechanic, don't have a garage and have never torn into a diesel before - I did rebuild a 305ci about 20 yrs ago, so some of the parts look familiar... don't have a job either so I do have some time ... wish me luck!

When changing the oil I noticed oil foam in the degas bottle - here's my drained coolant:


So it's time to jump in! Can't imagine anyone tries this job without a topside creeper...


Day 1 in the books - removed batteries, intake tube, degas bottle, alternator, CAC duct, turbo, pedestal, and drain tube, and heater tube.


A couple challenges along the way today -
1) There has to be a trick to release the tension on the serpentine belt - musta spent an hour trying to get a wrench and my hand between the fan stator & the belt tensioner. I'm sure there's a reason that needed to be buries way back in there but it's beyond my understanding...

2) That rear bolt on the turbo - holy cow! I got it out after dropping 2 10mm wrenches down into places I couldn't get to until after I had the turbo out. Thankfully I have *3* 10mm wrenches! Taking the bolt out was a challenge but I have no idea how I'm going to get it in. Seems I'll need much longer fingers with at least one more joint in them... again, there must be a trick to it but I couldn't figure it out. Is this why they pull the cab?

tia for any guidance!
-d

Last edited by oldbuck; 11-08-2011 at 10:38 PM.
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post #2 of 169 Old 11-07-2011, 07:16 PM
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Yeah, that back bolt can be a pain. I used a 6 point socket, a universal and an extension. Got it right out. Putting in back in will just take some patience, and you will have to hug your turbo and thread it in blind.
I did the install without the topside creeper and had bruises that didn't heal for weeks. I was some sore. The hood latch always seemed to end up in an unfortunate spot, if you get the drift.
Take your oil dipstick out or you will be replacing it.....
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post #3 of 169 Old 11-07-2011, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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thx NYC, I'll get that dipstick out of there 1st thing tomorrow.

No creeper? - you must be young! I guess that hood latch kept you from sliding...

Scratching my head here trying to figure out why my pics won't display - Is that a newb limit?
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post #4 of 169 Old 11-07-2011, 08:05 PM
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Yeah, 48 years young. No sliding down that way, I assure you. I was held firmly in place...
Don't know about the pics, I just clicked on the links given anyway.
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post #5 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 07:08 AM
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When I did it I released the tension by unbolting the alternator after I disconnected the wires and held it while I leaned it forward and the belt came on. When time came to put it back on I bolted the alternator back up and made sure the belt was in the right spot on all the pullys and grabbed it on the passenger side and yanked up and put it on the alternator pully it's not as bad as it sounds it has quite a bit of play when you pull up on it.


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2004 Ford F-250 6.0 CC SB
  • Edge Evolution
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  • BPD Oil Cooler (Condenser Mount)
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post #6 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 07:40 AM
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To get that belt off, grab ahold of it below the alternator, and pull straight up. It will compress the tensioner to where the belt pops right off

I wish I had a topside creeper for my install


2006 F350 SOLD
* KMC XD Monsters wrapped in Hankook ATM's
* 08 style mirrors
* 4" TB exhaust
* SCT X2 with Gearhead, PHP and ID tunes
* Edge Insight CTS
*Full Bulletproof Diesel kit with remote oil cooler
* Blue FPR spring
* 6.4 Banjos
* Repaired FICM by BPD
* Dfuser coolant filter
* Stage1 MTW turbo



New truck has a Cummins and a handshaker
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post #7 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 08:08 AM
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I have a very short 1/2 inch extension that offsets the connector on the end for the socket 45. That works great, fits in the hole in the tensioner and gives you the "swing room" you need. I never had any luck with lifting up on the belt....
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post #8 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
I have a very short 1/2 inch extension that offsets the connector on the end for the socket 45. That works great, fits in the hole in the tensioner and gives you the "swing room" you need. I never had any luck with lifting up on the belt....
I learned that from a tech that did the warranty work on my truck. It works great on my buddies 04, but it's a PITA on my truck. I think his tensioner is going south. It's the dealers problem now, he drove home last night with a 2011 F350

If you get a chance, shoot a pic of that offset thing. I'm not sure I grasp the concept


2006 F350 SOLD
* KMC XD Monsters wrapped in Hankook ATM's
* 08 style mirrors
* 4" TB exhaust
* SCT X2 with Gearhead, PHP and ID tunes
* Edge Insight CTS
*Full Bulletproof Diesel kit with remote oil cooler
* Blue FPR spring
* 6.4 Banjos
* Repaired FICM by BPD
* Dfuser coolant filter
* Stage1 MTW turbo



New truck has a Cummins and a handshaker
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post #9 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 02:29 PM
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When things get rough just remember... Your doing it right the first time so you don't have to do this again

Former 6Leaker owner
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post #10 of 169 Old 11-08-2011, 07:40 PM
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There is a spring clip in the back of the tensioner that will fall into a slot that holds the tensioner back in the loose position. You pull on the belt below the alternator toward the pass fender until the tensioner locks. When you reinstall you again pull the belt to release the tensioner.

It is easier to explain than it is to do. It takes a lot of force to move the tensioner to the right position.
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bpd , bulletproof diesel , oil cooler , ruptured oil cooler

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