Should the EGR valve open - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:14 PM
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Should the EGR valve open

Hi all, I've read through a pile of posts on EGR issues and have cleaned mine. Before I reinstall it I was wondering if I connect it electrically and turn the key on (engine off) should it open.Will it open?
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:09 PM
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No, it idle it should be closed. In fact if it is closed when you install it you can leave it unplugged and it should stay closed. Some will say that under hi boost pressure it can open up. I can tell you for a fact that I left mine unplugged for 6mo before I did my delete and it stayed closed just fine. This is not equivelant to a delete ,but it keep the EGR gasses out of the engine. Driveability problems happen when it gets so caked with soot that it can't close. Hope this helps
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:25 PM
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The issue with leaving the valve unplugged electrically, could lead to other issues with the motor not running properly. Depending on the strategy and year truck, the clutch fan won't reach full RPM, and/or the VGT vane sweep cycle will be canceled.
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilpooh View Post
The issue with leaving the valve unplugged electrically, could lead to other issues with the motor not running properly. Depending on the strategy and year truck, the clutch fan won't reach full RPM, and/or the VGT vane sweep cycle will be canceled.

In fact you are correct. My fan was working ok as far as I know ,but no VGT sweep. After I welded up my EGR cooler and reconnected the valve I got the VGT sweep back no change in fan operation. I seam to have better performance now too. I am not sure if that was because of the valve was connected or because I cleaned the turbo.
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Old 08-30-2011, 04:36 PM
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Can't ya just weld that little SOB shut? And then leave it plugged in, essentially deleting it but not screwing with the fan and turbo?
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 0660BigHoss View Post
Can't ya just weld that little SOB shut? And then leave it plugged in, essentially deleting it but not screwing with the fan and turbo?
Yes. But later models require the SCT tuner to turn off the CEL/valve, so you won't get a CEL for EGR codes.
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 0660BigHoss View Post
Can't ya just weld that little SOB shut? And then leave it plugged in, essentially deleting it but not screwing with the fan and turbo?

YES, thats what I did. My EGR cooler went south so I plugged and welded the exhaust and intake sides and re installed it. I left the valve plugged in and connected. I got lucky and no codes on my 2005. Cost less than $30 and $11 of the was the turbo hardware kit which btw is a very good investment.
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:05 PM
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YES, thats what I did. My EGR cooler went south so I plugged and welded the exhaust and intake sides and re installed it. I left the valve plugged in and connected. I got lucky and no codes on my 2005. Cost less than $30 and $11 of the was the turbo hardware kit which btw is a very good investment.
That sounds like my kind of mod. How long did that take? What did you do, take it to someone who can weld, or did you weld it yourself?
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 0660BigHoss View Post
That sounds like my kind of mod. How long did that take? What did you do, take it to someone who can weld, or did you weld it yourself?
I never welded mine, the first couple of years I used a EGR valve spool plug that I made. Then last year when I replaced my oil cooler, I went to a full delete from Sinister.

You can find the EGR valve spool plugs on e-bay for around $70. Then I also did the EGR delete up-pipe with a cap on the cooler. Here is what mine looked like when I was finished.
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:32 PM
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I pulled the cooler and got a small chunk of 1/4 in stainless steel ( scrap yard ) and cut plugs out of it and welded it in then just to be safe I made a blind rubber gasket that I glued on with silicone for the intake side and then put it all together. There are many diffrent ways to do this mod. some use freeze plugs ( I would not ) others get thick washers and mig weld them in and fill the hole with weld. the main point is fill the exhaust side with enough steel and weld so it wont burn through and then you could fill the intake side with a freeze plug if you wanted to. You can tig it with stainless like I did or you can weld it with a regular ER70s-6 wire in a mig machine. I even read a post about a guy that plugged the hole with a socket and welded it in. There enough room in the necks of these cooler that you can recess your plug inside pretty far and weld it in and not have to worry about messing op the flange and sealing surfaces. There is a lot of meat in the cooler body so there is little risk of burning through. Put it all back together with a new heater hose and clamps leave the valve in place and pluged in as dummy and your done. I did the turbo cleaning and STC fitting when I was in there as well. This was my first time tearing into a 6.0 and I would say I had 12 hrs labor into the job. and spent about $115 including all my shop supplies and parts ( turbo hardware kit, STC update, shop towels and lots of brake clean, power-aide, advil, rubber pads, pizza etc etc )

. See this post for pics etc of the job.

No longer a 6.0 virgin. New STC, Cleaned turbo, welded EGR cooler closed. PIC's

Last edited by HAM_RADIO_MAN; 08-30-2011 at 07:41 PM.
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