No longer a 6.0 virgin. New STC, Cleaned turbo, welded EGR cooler closed. PIC's

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

Over the last week I noted that the de-gas tank was getting lower every day. I have a 4 deg delta on my SGII so the oil cooler is fine. I am guessing the EGR cooler failed due to thermal cycling.
I pulled the EGR valve out and found wetness in the bottom of the hole. My solution was to remove the EGR cooler and weld both ends closed, with 1/4 inch plugs in both ends. This has the benefit of retaining the stock look and I left the EGR valve installed and plugged in. Now If I move to a state that inspects for emissions, I have a fighting chance of passing. NO CEL and no codes. Since I had the turbo out I elected to update the STC fitting and clean the turbo. You can get the EGR cooler out without pulling the intake manifold. I didn't get any shots of the EGR cooler weld up, but after I sealed it up I put silicone and a rubber blind gasket on the intake side for extra insurance. For the start-up I removed the FICM relay and cranked the engine for 30 sec runs 4 times until my Scan-gauge II indicated stable ICP values. I put the relay back in and it started up the 2nd attempt after that. I wasn't having any hot starting issues but I was having 3 to 5 sec crank times, with the new updated STC fitting the start up is almost as fast as a gasser. I did put hair spray on the IC boots and tightened them down really good and no problems there. No I didn't remove the scoop in the up pipe. ADVIL and Power-Aid are your friend on this job. I was less sore when I roofed the house than doing this job!! Go to the camping store and buy 3 or 4 of those foam rubber sleeping pads and duct tape them together to lay on under the hood. When doing a multi-day project, I always get a supply of 1 gallon and 1 qt zip-loc bags and put my parts and hardware into them with a sharpie label. By day 2 or 3 you have other things on your mind than" were did the short 6mm bolt for the heater hose bracket go to". I also spent $11 on a turbo hardware kit from Ford that had all the gaskets, o-rings and bolts you need. That was a great investment. Be sure to drowned all your turbo hardware in PB Blaster or penetrating oil of you choice before you start the job.


The tear down was a great learning experience. Thanks to everyone here on the .org for your contributions that made this job much easier Make sure to remove the dipstick as it is very easy to slip and break it when trying to support your self under the hood. Don't forget the unplug the injector that is about under the alternator and save the clip. After watching a few you-tube videos it looks very easy to break the connector moving the manifold around. The OEM manifold gaskets were in great condition and are advertised as being reusable so that's what I did.




Once I got the turbo and EGR cooler out, I decided if I was brave enough to get this far I should upgrade the STC fitting on the HPOP.
Those heat shield bolts that go into the HPOP cover were a major pain to get out. Notice the fitting that the hose for the EGR cooler attaches to on the oil cooler.
This fitting has an O-ring on it and it slides on the tube from the oil cooler. I was unsure if I should reuse this or not? I took a gamble on it and it seams like a winning idea.

Make sure to clean the the block with cleaner of your choice and a wire brush before you remove the HPOP cover.






Here's a shot of my big girl.






The exhaust side of the turbocharger was pretty clean for 61K miles on it.





I cleaned the unison ring with 400 grit sanding cloth and cleaned the housing and vanes with a brass brush. in this shot the vanes are closed. Make sure to put at least two refrence marks on the case and
be careful when you open the case that you don't end up with a pile of vanes and a unison ring in your lap. I was lucky enough to find good enough pic's on here to show me what direction to point the vanes.
I tried and I'm pretty sure you can't install the unison ring upside down. The result was a turbo that is much more responsive than before. There was very little rust on the unison ring, but the case under the vanes had quite a bit of rust and pitting.





Vanes in the open position.




Make sure you pack rags around the HPOP anytime you can !! The idea here is to provide a layer of protection in case you drop a bolt or tool in this area when your working.
IF you drop anything in this area you will be lucky if you only need to pull the transmission to get it out of the back cover. If you are unlucky you will have a bolt or a tool stuck down around the cam, ouch. When working on the HPOP you must use extreme caution to keep the area clean and derbies out of the engine. Also a small dab of RTV is handy right at the interface between the back cover and the block on both sides under the HPOP cover. When pulling the HPOP cover it's handy to have a razor blade to cut the factory RTV in the back side under the HPOP cover.

[tonto]

Im confused I thought the intake had to come off to get the egr out?

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

No need to pull it out. Loosen the bolts on the driver side a lot and remove all the bolts on the passenger side. This will let you raise the passenger side of the manifold up about 2 inches. then you can pop the o-ring out of the manifold then push the cooler fore and aft while at the same time turning the back end of the cooler toward the driver side and up. Then you have enough clearance to get the front side of the EGR cooler up and out. It took me longer to type this out than to wrangle and remove the cooler.

[NYC F-350]

Originally Posted by HAM_RADIO_MAN

Make sure to remove the dipstick as it is very easy to slip and break it when trying to support your self under the hood.

Yeah, sure. Where were you last February? I do have a nice new dipstick though.

[npccpartsman]

Originally Posted by NYC F-350

Yeah, sure. Where were you last February? I do have a nice new dipstick though.

It's not the dipstick I have problems with it's the stupid fan shroud extension that I always forget to take off and break--

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

NYC-F350---- Thanks for all the advise and the PDF's you posted!! The technical info on the .org made all the difference in the world. Don't feel bad. I did the broken dip stick mod myself too. I would rather others have the benefit of my mistakes than have to buy a dip stick. I did get the upper fan stator removed right off the bat.

[agjake11]

great thread. saving this one for when i tear into mine.

did a special dipstick mod my last oil change (first one when i got it). went to pull the dipstick and just the cap came off. actual dipstick was sitting in the tube so i need a new one

[sinner6.0L]

did you find a reman sticker on that center housing anywhere?

looks like the newer style with the groove

[HAM_RADIO_MAN]

No, it looks like the factory turbo. There was no indication of a warrenty replacement on the oasis report. the previous owner said he was having turbo issues when he traded it off. It may have gotten a new turbo right befor I got it. Is the "new design" good or bad?

[Evil Eye]

Congrats on getting it done yourself! GREAT advice in this thread.

PS. The dipstick I have a problem with is the one who is working on my truck! (That would be me for the most part!)