Oil change time

[zman111]

Hello everyone well it's time for me to do my first oil change and not take it to the dealer for this, I have been looking and reading but I still have a few questions, the dealer always used 10/30 oil in my truck 05 f250 but living in the northeast I wanted to try something different. I see alot of people rate the rotella high on the list so if I was to use that brand shoul I stick with rotella 10w30 or maybe use rotella t6 5w40 or maybe I should use the rotella t6 15w40 because of cold weather here. Any help would really be great, I don't tow anything with the truck right now so that may have an impact on what oil I use?

[pizza pig]

I wouldnt even put 15w40 oils into the equation, you will want the 5w40 synthetic when trying to start your truck in the winter trust me, its a night and day difference. My truck did okay with 10w30 semi synthetic but its much better with the 5w40 full synthetic. I didnt have the greatest luck with the T6, and its not a true full synthetic at that. I would recommend Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic or Valvoline Premium Blue extreme 5w40, amsoil etc.

dont forget Motorcraft/Racor filters only!

[smokersteve]

yes 5 in 5w-40 will start better cold than 10 in 10w-30.

I use mobil and have no issues or overly happy to use it. With a bypass filter it looks like it lasts 8,000miles with testing, I can post it if you want to see it. I have one more oil change with mobile with a test at 8,000 miles, then on to another oil and see how well that does.

[TMAG6.0]

u guys stretching your oil changes are crazy, i use dino Rotella 15-40 and change it every 5K or earlier. start looking at 3 and its out by 5 for sure..... in the south. oil absorbs allot of crap missed by the filter/s. change it often. nuff said

[jrtcbmw]

Originally Posted by pizza pig

I wouldnt even put 15w40 oils into the equation, you will want the 5w40 synthetic when trying to start your truck in the winter trust me, its a night and day difference. My truck did okay with 10w30 semi synthetic but its much better with the 5w40 full synthetic. I didnt have the greatest luck with the T6, and its not a true full synthetic at that. I would recommend Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic or Valvoline Premium Blue extreme 5w40, amsoil etc.

dont forget Motorcraft/Racor filters only!

I know ive seen this before but not often enought but how is T6 not a true full synthetic?

Im about to do an oil change soon, and have been planning to switch to T6

[06SuperDutyF250]

I dont really like the fact of using a 5-40 all year round, but hey thats just me, some people love it tho. Ive always used the Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel & Marine 15-40, in my past truck a 6.5 Turbo Diesel GMC, and i just put it in my 06 F250 i got 2 weeks ago. I think with the pure syn that amsoil is, the 15-40 has great startup in cold weather. Ive used the rotella t6 in the 6.5 and noticed a tiny bit quicker startup but not much. i just feel the 5 is too low of a number. and as for oil change intervals, ive been reading alot and been told that the 6.0 shears oil big time bc of the HPOP system. So Instead of looking at the color, send the oil off to be analyzed. better safe than sorry. I think synthetic is a great way to go, but its hard to find a 15-40 besides amsoil that is fully synthetic. Not sure who else makes a diesel oil 15-40 full synthetic. I think your best bet is maybe to run 10/30 or 15-40 during the warmer months and then 5/40 in the colder ones, im actually gunna see what runs better this winter here in NY, if the 15/40 amsoil gives me a little bit of a hard time, ill go with the 5/40 amsoil. btw dont wana start any oil wars lolol its your call, im sure others will chime in what they like and there success as well

Rotella t6 isnt a full synthetic, has to do with POA i beileve, not part of a category, kinda forgot, i think its on bobistheoilguy or sumthin

[roadrunner]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a quality 10w-30 HDEO, it doesn't have to be a syn/syn blend either. I have been running it for the past 45,000 mi., year around, with outstanding UOA's at 7,500 mi. OCI's.

The cold pour point between 5w-40 and 10w-30 are close enough to one another that I doubt anyone could tell the difference. Check out the BITOG website, they have many oil related answers there, and several of my UOA's are posted there also.

[smokersteve]

Originally Posted by roadrunner

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a quality 10w-30 HDEO, it doesn't have to be a syn/syn blend either. I have been running it for the past 45,000 mi., year around, with outstanding UOA's at 7,500 mi. OCI's.

The cold pour point between 5w-40 and 10w-30 are close enough to one another that I doubt anyone could tell the difference.(lest say above 20* with out stiction.... I agree. but under, yes you will.)

comments^^

[PGreenSVT]

I would recommend a 5w40 or in extreme cold a 5w30. The 5 only comes into play at startup. When the oil is at temp it is a 40w just like the 15w40.

The issue with Rotella T6 and most others claimin to be full synthetic is that they are actually made from etremely hydro-cracked Grp III crude oil and not from Grp IV or Grp V synthetic base stocks. Mobil 1, Amsoil, and Redline are the only readily available true synthetic base stock derived oils. That said the Rotella T6 has show extremely good UOA's.

For those who prefer to run dino oil the parrafin in the base oil is what leads to injector stiction so when you are replacing injectors you will understand why.

There is no harm at all in pushing oil change intervals with a good synthetic AS LONG AS you do the Used Oil Analysis to verify that your oil is good to that point. You also should be running an oil bypass filter when doing so. The primary oil filter only filters to 18 microns where as the bypass filter will get it down to 1 micron or less. Believe it, your injectors care.

[PGreenSVT]

Originally Posted by roadrunner

There is absolutely nothing wrong with a quality 10w-30 HDEO, it doesn't have to be a syn/syn blend either. I have been running it for the past 45,000 mi., year around, with outstanding UOA's at 7,500 mi. OCI's.

The cold pour point between 5w-40 and 10w-30 are close enough to one another that I doubt anyone could tell the difference. Check out the BITOG website, they have many oil related answers there, and several of my UOA's are posted there also.

Originally Posted by smokersteve

comments^^

I won't run a dino oil regardless of what the UOA says about 7500mi OCI's. The UOA tells you nothing about varnish left from the parrafin content of a dino oil and if you run a Pennsylvania grade crude with a higher parrafin content the problem is worse. Again when they start replacing injectors they will know why.

I have run synthetic oil in my truck since I bought it. I just pulled the injectors to put 175's in and my valvetrain looks like it is brand new with 90k on it.