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Pinion seal replacement..
I know I should probably post this in the drivetrain problems section but I usually don't get alot of responses there. I need to replace the pinion seal on my 05 f250. Never done this before so how hard is it and what all will I need besides the new seal. Will be changing to amsoil fluids when I fill it back up.
Thanks |
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just did mine last friday.
mark the drive shaft to flange. remove driveshaft 4 bolts. remove the pinion nut. we used a screw type puller to remove the pinion flange. dug out old seal with seal remover. installed new seal. tap flange back in seal. tighten pinion nut line up driveshaft marks and tighten bolts. DONE! Pretty straight forward took about 20 minutes top. helps to have a puller and the seal remover. |
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My recommendation ... take it to a specialist. Technically, you suppose to "replace" the crush washer anytime you release the pinion preload.
I did mine myself ... even did it the "best" way which is to use an inch-lb torque wrench to set the rotational torque back. 9000 mile later I had to replace the pinion bearings cause I got it a tad too tight. This was much more expensive than if I would've just taken it somewhere and had someone replace the seal in the first place. Just saying what can happen if you don't get the preload back perfect. Last edited by 98SurplusExpy; 07-11-2011 at 03:13 AM. |
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Keith pretty much has it nailed although you must mark the pinion nut to the pinion before disassembly. It's an invaluble reference.
I will say, the pinion flange on the 10.5 is one of the tightest fits to the splines I have ever worked with. Puller to get it off and heat to get it back on. As mentioned, you have to be sure of your pinion nut location to the pinion when going back together. If you go one rotation too far past your nut marking, you will likely be doing pinion bearings soon. I don't recommend this job for a non mechanic. |
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Other than a new seal is there any other parts I need to order.
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yes, definitely index the pinion nut to the pinion. take a small chisel and tap a mark in each one lining them up
i've done dozens of seals this way without any concerns |
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yes take chisiel (can't spell that word for life of me) and mark pinion nut to pinion this is the way i always do them and never have a problem. Just line the mark back up when putting nut back on this is the most critical mark to make.
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Be careful if you decide to do it yourself-you can't just tighten the pinion nut back on, You have to set bearing preload, and make sure you don't alter pinion depth. It can be done, but honestly I've seen people destroy differentials doing it themselves.
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I've had a couple people tell me to check the vent tube and make sure its not stopped up. Would this be the rubber hose coming off the drivers side of the rear end housing and going up and clipping to the frame with a plastic fitting on the end.
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Quote:
I checked mine first too...no clog |
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