Buying a 6.0L - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-08-2011, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Buying a 6.0L

My experience with the 6.0L has been less then stellar, we have a few ambulance that have been nothing but trouble, to the point that the last 450 and 550 that our FD purchased had the V10 in them.

That being said, I have a freind that is looking at a '06 6.0L with 122,XXX miles on it. What are some of the things to look out for on this truck. Preaty much the only use this truck will see is pulling a 30 some foot 5th wheel around during the summer, and some ocasional winter driving if the snow is to deep for her Pacifica.

Otherwise is there a year or two that one should stay away from more then another for the 6.0L trucks.

Thanks.

2002 F350SD Lariat 4x4 CCLB SRW.

Mods; Wicked wheel, Turbo-Master, Zoodad, EBPV deleate, DIY CAI, 5" Turbo Back Magnaflow, Edge Insight CTS, PHP FU Chip, Coolant Bypass filter, 203 stat, Cat ELC, Transmission Filter System, Tru-Cool transmission Cooler, Truxedo Tonneau cover, HID headlights & fogs, LED's for everything else. Rear view cam, Ranch Hand bumper, TorkLift; SuperHitch, Camper Jacks & Stableload.
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-08-2011, 02:19 PM
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There's a sticky somewhere that'll get you pointed in the right direction but if I were in the market for a 6.0, I'd purchase a Scangauge II (or fancier CTS) to get the status of the two more prominent points of failure of the 6.0... the FICM and oil cooler. If he's serious about getting a 6.0, he'll need to monitoring tool anyway.
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-08-2011, 02:27 PM
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The newer the better. 06's are ok, I have got one but only with 45k on it. Be ready to do headstuds, egr delete, and oil cooler fix. Mine hasn't needed any of these yet, but it'll happen sooner or later. Sooner if heavy towing with a heavy foot or beating on it. Gauges or some kind of monitoring of the egt, oil and coolant temp would be highly recommended. I have an Edge monitor bought from a fellow member. Get an Oasis on it, check it very carefully for oil leaks as they have several places to leak from. Slop in the steering and for a worn out steering stabilizer, these trucks seem to eat the oem ones. If your used to something with get up and go, you'll want a tuner which can turn off the egr system and improve shifting. I'm sure I missed something, but some others can chime in. These trucks aren't really as bad as I made it sound, but I want you to be warned. I'd get it looked over by a trusted Ford mechanic just to make sure nothing is/was missed. It's hard for me to trust used vehicles unless I know who owned it and serviced it.

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post #4 of 8 Old 07-08-2011, 07:24 PM
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check the fluids for any smells of coolant... Start the truck and see if the exhaust smells of coolant... the 6.0 is a good truck and will run but its like a female if you forget a oil change it gets mad, if you dont love it, it gets mad... If you take care of it you will love it. Many say that the 6.0 is junk but if you dont check and do the proper maint on the engine well it wont run right....

The EGR is the big problem to look for the coolant smell in other fluids is a sign that bad stuff is going to happen.. I would also look into the degas tank for the coolant and see what the fluid looks like. If the EGR is bad you will see some oil mixed with coolant in the tank.

2005 F250 6.0 PSD
Lift Kit, Cold air zoodad mod, High Idel mod, scanguage ii, Rancho 6000 shocks, EGR delete, Blue Spring update, Trubo update, Coolant flitter, Zerex Elc, STC update, HPOP, 4 inch Turbo back exhaust
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-10-2011, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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degas tank?

What is this you speak of?

2002 F350SD Lariat 4x4 CCLB SRW.

Mods; Wicked wheel, Turbo-Master, Zoodad, EBPV deleate, DIY CAI, 5" Turbo Back Magnaflow, Edge Insight CTS, PHP FU Chip, Coolant Bypass filter, 203 stat, Cat ELC, Transmission Filter System, Tru-Cool transmission Cooler, Truxedo Tonneau cover, HID headlights & fogs, LED's for everything else. Rear view cam, Ranch Hand bumper, TorkLift; SuperHitch, Camper Jacks & Stableload.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-10-2011, 05:38 AM
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its the coolant overflow tank next to the cab on the drivers side

06 F-250 ccsb King Ranch, 2011 KR interior AC seats, door panels, 3" RC lift, SCT X3, WILDMAN tune, bumpers, Edge CTS, AMSOIL bypass kit, pillar gauges, ARPs, Warren 155s, egr delete, 4" exhaust...the list goes on and on

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post #7 of 8 Old 07-10-2011, 05:54 AM
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If there is oil in the degas reservoir, then the oil cooler has failed. This usually is due to the coolant "gelling" for some reason (or casting sand) plugging up the coolant side of the oil cooler - then it fails from excessive heat. This "plugging up" of the coolant flow in the oil cooler will then starve the EGR cooler for coolant and it can fail (the kate 04 and up EGR coolers are less reliable). If your EGR cooler fails, you lose coolant, can experience whie exhaust, will have coolant under the EGR valve, and can possible blow your head gaskets.

This issue is why Ford's newest flashes will initiate a code and a wrench light if the oil temp is more than 15 degrees higher than the coolant temp (at certain engine conditions). This is why gauges are a MUST to have. I have a DashDAQ and have helped several folks monitor used 6.0L's when they were test driving them. VERY adviseable IMO. That being said, I do not know the % of 6.0L engines that experience this problem, but it is enough to see MANY posts on the subject. I will say that SEVERAL Techs I know have stated that they have never seen an 03 (round) EGR cooler fail - only the later model square ones.

I love my 2006, but I installed a BulletProof EGR cooler just to be safe.

Also, the 05's and up are somewhat prone to leaks in the high pressure oil system. Replacement of the STC fitting, dummy plugs, and standpipes may be necessary eventually. Not a bank breaker by any means, but it is something to "weigh into" the price you pay.

Some folks say injectors are problematic, but run good fuel, use the proper oil AND fuel filters, keep the fuel pressure above 45 psig at all times, and the injectors are fine for 250k + miles (assuming the original owner didn't abuse things).

Keep batteries and alternators healthy, or you will be sending the FICM off for repair. Again, it isn't that expensive (around $250), but it is a somewhat common failure.

Good luck.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-10-2011, 12:12 PM
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Your previous experience is gold. Stay away from all of them. Biggest mistake I ever made.
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