Getting ready for ball joints - any pointers? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Getting ready for ball joints - any pointers?

Just getting ready for my ball joints and I'm likely going to be doing U-joints since I will have everything apart. Truck has almost 120k miles on it and it has done great so far on the factory stuff, so factory ball joints are going back in it.

I have read through the procedures several times and other than the snap-ring pliers, there doesn't seem to be anything UNUSUAL about these procedures or equipment. Am I missing something or is this procedure just VERY straightforward? I'm a little concerned I will be waist deep into this thing and realize I HAVE to run to the parts store or need a specific doodad from FORD... Also, how frequently do the hub/needle bearings go out or require replacement?

Thanks for your insight!

Shawn Carlson
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 08:26 AM
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its not a bad job u can do it, just inspect those bearings, lube if they look dry

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post #3 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 09:10 AM
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Yep, you will need the "king of all snap ring pliers" to get that snap ring out of there. Patience (as always) is key. Definitely do the u-joints on the axles. I was in a bind for time and couldn't do my own balljoints. Paid a garage down the street to do it (not a bad price I might add) but in 2 weeks I was tearing it apart to do the u-joints.
It wasn't a total loss, at least it made disassembly fairly easy.
Theres a good sized seal you should replace that gets pressed onto the axle stub, behind the wheelbearing. If your careful you can put it all together and use the 4 bolts of the wheelbearing to slowly pull it on there. Theres also a rubber o-ring that goes on the outside of the wheelbearing that seals it to the knuckle that you will want to replace. I didn't bother with the axle tube seal. They don't seem to last very long anyways.
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCUFFY828 View Post
its not a bad job u can do it, just inspect those bearings, lube if they look dry
Thanks buddy! I apply lube VERY generously....


Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
Yep, you will need the "king of all snap ring pliers" to get that snap ring out of there. Patience (as always) is key. Definitely do the u-joints on the axles. I was in a bind for time and couldn't do my own balljoints. Paid a garage down the street to do it (not a bad price I might add) but in 2 weeks I was tearing it apart to do the u-joints.
It wasn't a total loss, at least it made disassembly fairly easy.
Theres a good sized seal you should replace that gets pressed onto the axle stub, behind the wheelbearing. If your careful you can put it all together and use the 4 bolts of the wheelbearing to slowly pull it on there. Theres also a rubber o-ring that goes on the outside of the wheelbearing that seals it to the knuckle that you will want to replace. I didn't bother with the axle tube seal. They don't seem to last very long anyways.
LMAO! I'm assuming they don't sell the snap ring pliers at Harbor Freight?!?!?! Where did you end up getting yours? The HF set I bought when I rebuilt the t-case on my son's 96 Explorer is about shot and they certainly aren't stout enough for a job like this. I have heard about the seal and was considering making the "special tool" to seat it, but it sounds like I may just try your method. Thanks for the pointers.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #5 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 10:27 AM
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Make certain the snap ring pliers are long and skinny. The original set I had, had adjustable tips and nuts on the outside of the teeth to tighten. These nuts made it impossible to reach into the housing, so think long and skinny when your thinking snap ring pliers.
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post #6 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 10:35 AM
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I used this set from Northern tool. I had to "custom grind" the legs to fit on the bench grinder, but the set screws are on the outside. I had to grind the thickness of them and not along the side with the set screw. As an added bonus, the tips that come with, are the right size.

About that "special tool" you see made/described in the thread, the pipe nipple is not big enough to go around the stub axle, or at least it wasn't on my truck.
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the tips. I'll look into those pliers and appreciate the "heads up" on the special tool. This will be an interesting job, although I will probably pull the RZR and quads out of the garage so that I can be out of the sun.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #8 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 11:36 AM
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Think "liquid refreshments"... maybe you can run across town and get those special coozies first
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, no doubt! I also have a few other things that I want to get from them, so I'll add the koozie's to the list.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-27-2011, 06:29 PM
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you really should change the knuckle seal too but it can be a pain in the *** to reinstall on the axle shaft without the special tool

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as for the snap ring pliers these should work. use the length as a reference

SRPC9000A, Pliers, Retaining Ring, Fixed Tip, Convertible, 0°/.090" tips, 8 21/32"

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